So where do you think this water is coming from. I noticed it about 2 months ago after a hard rain. There was standing water underneight where the rear seats would be. (I luckly didn't have my rear interior in, but still steel and water don't get along).

So, water seems to collect somewhere and then when you accellerate you can actually see water fall out right above the rear speakers. I believe water is collecting in the plastic panel that covers the rear window. But I'm not sure where the orginal origin of the water starts. I took the back panels off and snapped some pictures. It almost appears to be comming from the headliner/roof. Both sides leak so I'd doubt I have two sources of water coming in. I'm looking for some advice on what seals need to be fixed etc.

The rear hatch seal seems fine. Im reluctant to take down the headliner, but will if thats whats needed.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

Best way to find a water leak is to take out the headliner and sit inside the car with it all closed up and have someone just go buck wild on it with the hose. Make sure they hit all the edges of the doors and around the hatch and windshield. If all else fails, check j00r sunroof

 

Yeah, taking the headliner out will help trace it down quickly. Plus, you prolly will have some cleaning/inspecting to do behind the headliner to make sure rust hasn't started anywhere because of the leak.

 

hey i had the same issue and i think its the same area on all tegs. ur rain rails on top if u follow it to the back of the car where it corners at the back of the roof. its an area where cracks tend to create and water pushes its way threw the crack. Ill try to post a pic of it in the next few days but i just used industrial automotive joint and seam sealer and it works. i mean i have had the issue for about as long as i have had the car and thats about 6years and i just had to reseal it this weekend. so i mean its something u have to keep an eye on but other then that the fix tends to fix the problem.. the best way is to get a buddy and a bar of soap some water and a compressor and from the inside blow the air out into the roof seams and if u see bubbles then u know the are u gotta look at.. One thing dont and i mean dont try to get someone to weld it shut u will run into problems

 

make sure you start from the bottom of the car and work your way up slowly, otherwise its had to pinpoint exactly where its coming in, water is a bitch

 

Mr. Postal has made a good point, now if he could work on sentence structure and puntuation......

 

Stop using water to find the leak, Use compressed air. Way more accurate and less damaging.

 

stop it

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bbasso &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Stop using water to find the leak, Use compressed air. Way more accurate and less damaging. </TD></TR></TABLE>

y ? i would think it would be easy with water since air can blow in threw any hole and water can only flow i understand the damage part tho.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by legomytego &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

y ? i would think it would be easy with water since air can blow in threw any hole and water can only flow i understand the damage part tho. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Any hole??? There are many holes in our cars?
Oh boy...

Listen to this theroy I have;
If there were many holes we would have many leaks
If the compressed air enters the car then there is a leak that water can get in too.
If you find more then one reasonable air leak then the water also has more then one leak point.
Reasonable meaning that door and door glass should not be included, they should have some leakage. But quarter panel glass should have none ,along with the roof.
When using compressed air, pin pointing a leak will be easier then water, once water gets in it stay wet and spreads. Air on the other hand, will make some noise, breeze and can be tested over and over.

Trust me
I was the trouble shooter for bad glass installs at the glass Co I worked at years ago.

As with both means of testing, You will need two people.

 

When I worked at a GM dealership many years ago, we would sometimes find leaks by setting the blower motor to the max speed (recirc. off) and soaping up the suspected area, then watching for any bubbles. Might not work on a very slow leak, but it did work fairly well. If you don't have easy access to a compressed air source, this method might come in handy.

 

i guess that makes since i will try both ways for now on where do you recommend shooting air at to check for leaks in the rear of our cars ?

 

seams, gaps, moldings ,anything other then straight metal...

Geeze, want me to come there and hold your hand too

 

no that would be kinda weird but you can do it for me while i watch

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bbasso &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">seams, gaps, moldings ,anything other then straight metal...

Geeze, want me to come there and hold your hand too </TD></TR></TABLE>

Rob you can hold my hand.

So to follow up on this subject. (I havn't taken the headliner out yet, but Im going to have to check for rust etc.)

But I think I've found the source.



See the hairline crack. Whats weird is that their is an identical crack on the other side as well. Is this a weak point in the chassis?

How do you think I should tackle this? Weld it back up? Or just put some (goop/selear) on it?

 

I would use a silicone sealant, because if it is a stress point the silicone will allow for flexability and stay intact