Installing Rotors
04-12-2003, 11:49 PM
#26
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The pads are just floating inside the caliper, so after you remove the caliper from the rotor they will likely fall out of place so don't get startled if that happens. Just undo the caliper bolt and put the pads back into their proper place.
The caliper bracket bolts are difficult. Breaker bar or pipe extension on your ratchet for sure.
The rotor screws, sometimes are on so badly even an impact screwdriver won't get them off and just strip them. Have a drill with bits for metal handy just in case.
The caliper bracket bolts are difficult. Breaker bar or pipe extension on your ratchet for sure.
The rotor screws, sometimes are on so badly even an impact screwdriver won't get them off and just strip them. Have a drill with bits for metal handy just in case.
04-13-2003, 08:47 AM
#28
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Re: Installing Rotors (pyromaster)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pyromaster »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">oh yeah they're on pretty good. After all they are 80 ft/lbs
i use a breaker bar or put a pipe on the end of my ratchet handle for more leverage to get them off. also the 1st time I got them off I coated them with anti-seize which made it easier.
LOL- not to insult your intelligence, but use a 6 pt 17mm socket. The 1st time I tried I was using a 12 pt socket and it wouldn't grab.
on me. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I hope the caliper bolts are not on there w/ 80 ft-lbs. They're supposed to be torqued in the 45 ft-lb range or something like that (just replaced spindles and upper control arms Friday on my friend's car, so we had to take the calipers off and put them back on).
i use a breaker bar or put a pipe on the end of my ratchet handle for more leverage to get them off. also the 1st time I got them off I coated them with anti-seize which made it easier.
LOL- not to insult your intelligence, but use a 6 pt 17mm socket. The 1st time I tried I was using a 12 pt socket and it wouldn't grab.
on me. </TD></TR></TABLE>I hope the caliper bolts are not on there w/ 80 ft-lbs. They're supposed to be torqued in the 45 ft-lb range or something like that (just replaced spindles and upper control arms Friday on my friend's car, so we had to take the calipers off and put them back on).
04-13-2003, 10:16 AM
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Re: Installing Rotors (PatrickGSR94)
Where'd you hear that? Maybe you're thinking of the 14mm bolts that you use to put the pads on which are 36 ft lbs but the 17mm bolts for the caliber bracket are definately 80 ft lbs. Look in the Helms on page 19-12
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I hope the caliper bolts are not on there w/ 80 ft-lbs. They're supposed to be torqued in the 45 ft-lb range or something like that (just replaced spindles and upper control arms Friday on my friend's car, so we had to take the calipers off and put them back on).</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I hope the caliper bolts are not on there w/ 80 ft-lbs. They're supposed to be torqued in the 45 ft-lb range or something like that (just replaced spindles and upper control arms Friday on my friend's car, so we had to take the calipers off and put them back on).</TD></TR></TABLE>
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