BMaDOHC

i had a studdering issue in mine awhile back under load and under 3k. if I was easy on the gas it wouldnt do it but a little more and it would misfire. it would stop though as soon as the revs were up a little.

ended up being my plug wires. one was arching inside the cylinder head. they all looked mint so a visual inspection doesnt cut it, you should swap them out for known good wires.

Black R

yup, plugs, plug wires, cap and rotor and ignitor.

EARLdaSQUIRREL

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Black R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yup, plugs, plug wires, cap and rotor and ignitor. </TD></TR></TABLE>

what i was thinking, sounds like it just needs a tune up

plugs, wires, cap, rotor, and a fuel filter

KaBlookie

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EARLdaSQUIRREL &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

what i was thinking, sounds like it just needs a tune up

plugs, wires, cap, rotor, and a fuel filter</TD></TR></TABLE>

As has been mentioned twice before, I did the fuel filter recently. The plugs are a year/13k miles old (NGK Iridiums, so a year/13k miles is nothing for them). I swapped in a different set of plug wires I had around so I'll drive it for a few days to see if that did anything. I also have a distributor cap and rotor on the way.

an2ny888

i'm experiencing a somewhat similar problem, i get a an intermittent low idle problem, it goes down as low as 500 - 600 rpm, then it normalizes by itself. this has only surfaced recently, i'll let you know if i find a solution

KaBlookie

^^ hmm, through all of this my idle has always been normal. Cold, warm, in between have all been fine and it warms up just like normal. Are you having a hesitating issue like me? If not then I don't think me fixing my issue would help you at all...

Ryanwill86

ttt

wildoutwhitegsr

Try bleeding your coolant could have a couple of bubbles trap in the system.

When I had this problem it turned out to be my O2 sensor on it's way out and was adjusting the mixture during closed looped operation wrong. This could very well be your problem. I know you said you swapped in a used one, but try out a new NGK/NTK one. Should only be about $80. Or if you have access to an OBD2 scan tool hook it up and check out the readings.

floatfisher

and check your distributor

KaBlookie

I recently replaced the distributor cap and rotor (along with doing a full timing belt service), and seemingly along with the cooler weather, the problem has almost gone away...I'm really really easy on it until the temp gauge goes above the C, at which point I'm just easy on it until it's up to temp, and I only get the hesitation when I try to get on the gas a little more than normal at low speeds/RPMs when the engine's cold. It doesn't happen all the time, just every once in a while.

I've always been easy on it when the engine's cold, but as a result of this issue being as bad as it was when I first posted about it, I got myself used to being real easy on the gas (more so than normal) until it warms up, as that was how I was able to prevent the hesitating issue from coming up before.

wildoutwhitegsr, how could bubbles in the coolant system cause hesitating/shuddering issues? I drained/filled/bled the coolant when I did the timing belt service, so it's good now.

floatfisher, as stated in my original post, I ran all the tests in the FSM for all the distributor internals and everything checked out fine.

ntegnifong

Ive had i few problems like this...

1 was a small cut/rip in the plug wire. causeing it to ark under load.
2 was small arks from dist cap to aftermarket intake. covered the end of the boot end on the dist cap and fixed it.

i hope this is alittle bit of help. good luck

KaBlookie

Thanks for the input ntegnifong. I have not seen any cuts or rips at all in either of my sets of spark plug wires, and I have plenty of room between by distributor cap and my intake.

Midnight-Bullet

i have a similar problem with my b18c5. had a minor idle problem with it jumping a bit. eventually escalated to the car hesitating at about 3k rpm. however, now the CEL is on and there's no hesitating and no idle jump except it idles high at like 1400. i have an omni TB. and the cel ran tps and map codes. the harness was chopped so the plugs have A LOT of tension. VERY rarely the cel goes away. one time i drove for 2 hours, shut off the car then turned it back on and the cel was gone but i had hesitating and idle jumps again. i'm putting a b16a2 harness on in case it's a wiring problem. if that doesn't help gonna check the tps voltage and map. any further ideas from anyone?

MazdaSpeedster

do a complete tune up and fuel filter. fuel filters are so commonly overlooked. dont use junk *** spark plugs wires and ****. if anything buy from the dealer

TonyRomo

To the Op... I am having pretty much the same problem as you with my 00 GSR. I changed a ton of parts just like you to no avail. Read my post to view the parts... https://honda-tech.com/forums/acura-integra-6/gsr-sputtering-dropping-rpms-2447576/ The injectors are going to be changed tomorrow. Hopefully that is the problem. Let me know if you have found out what the problem was as I will do the same. Thanks

Honda Type R

BACK FROM THE DEAD!!!

Does anyone have any more insight to this issue? I am having the EXACT same issue on a 98 Spec JDM R swap running on the R ECU. I have replaced the plugs with OEM JDM ITR plugs, wires are NGK, cap and rotor are OEM, ignition timing is set at 18 base, TPS is at 0.50 at idle and 4.44 at WOT and the voltage moves smoothly through the range, I've changed the MAP with a known good one, new fuel filter, OEM timing belt kit, and a new Denso O2 sensor. All of this has been done in the last 4k miles and the problem just started on Friday August 15th.

PLEASE HELP ME! I'm totally lost.

Runnerdown

It's not bullshit like clogged injectors or bubbles in the coolant. I don't know where people come up with this stuff. 95% of the problems I see like this on stock setups can be traced back to the distributor/ignition system

Honda Type R

I agree. From my experiences the ignition control module will either work or it won't so I don't think it's that. I've got all brand new OEM or high quality tune up parts. What else is left? The pick up inside the distributor? Could that be it? I don't have a spare to test it and I can't afford to buy a new one and that not be the problem

Runnerdown

The coil and igniter are common failure points. I find often times it's the coil that goes first. Pickups....eh.. occasionally but pretty rare.

Honda Type R

Did some different driving today. More short trips than usual and I've got a pattern. It won't do it if I start the car up from sitting for a while. But if I drive somewhere and then leave a hour later it is guaranteed to do it badly as soon as I start going but clears up after I release the throttle and get back into it. It may or may not do it again afterwards but if it does, it's not as bad. If the car cools down a lot it won't do it. I suppose I'll pull the ignition control module out and test it at Auto Zone. I have a spare OBD2B distributor from a CRV. I don't know where it came from but I'll pull the module from it and test it too.

BigStu

Bump. I was/am having the similar issues. It started at the track with the CEL light on and the car would not stay idle without manual throttle holding the RPM's. Ending up being a IACV code. swapped the IACV and the car still would not idle without throttle input. Upon closer inspection the harness started to break right at the butt of the IACV plug. I soldier in a new plug and that solved my idle issue.

ONLY to at the next track event start to get this hesitation and bucking symptoms under load that would not let me go above 3200rpm or so but no codes. As of recently I swapped the dizzy internals and ending up upgrading to a Rywire engine harness because my current harness was beat up from day 1 (had to manually run a wire from the dizzy for a tach reading and my vtec wire did the same thing my IACV plug started to do)

Hopefully this solved my issues but I'm guessing mine ended up being a very tired harness.

BigStu

Haven't been logged in for a while but figure I would add to what ultimately ended up being my solution because I personally hate searching for answers to only find that if/when the problem gets solved no one bothers to post the answer.
So as stated above i ultimately had to change my TPS sensor which solved my intermittent cut offs issues.

RTW DC2R

Thanks for the follow up Stu. These are the worst type of issues to troubleshoot.

joey1320

There's a great write up here about replacing/calibrating the TPS. I haven't done it to my car yet because my engine is out of it, but before I pulled the engine I was having some hesitation right around the 3500rpm range, when at highway speeds. I think the TPS calibration(although I did buy a new one) will be my fix.


https://honda-tech.com/honda-crx-ef-...hread-2830131/