I replaced plugs with ngk pfrg6-13
put on stock wires. Code comes back. I havent changed cap and rotor yet, my car has 87k on the clock.

 

regap the plugs to 1.1mm, reset the ecu and try again

 

I did gap them to stock spec which was .044 or .045. You did say something about bent valves a week ago. I dont want to believe that When I drive on the highway say 70mph I get off the exit and the car seems like it wants to idle at 200 rpms but after a second it will raise back up to 750-800rpm. I know something isnt right. The car does pull normally but I havent done a compression check either

 

do a compression and leak down test

 

Hey sgt I adjusted the idle speed control screw on the t/b and my code hasnt come back Im so happy I changed all my plugs, cap, and rotor for nothing. I hope that was it. I havent messed with the timing. Its not often should you have to reset the timing is it?


[Modified by 98R #448, 4:15 PM 1/29/2002]

 

timing should be a set and forget deal

 

I've been having the same exact problem lately.

I took it back to the dealer but they can't figure out why the CEL is going on.

It just went on again on Saturday afternoon but this morning it decides to turn off, this damn light is really annoying.

I was about to do the same thing you did and change the spark plugs,wires,cap and rotor, but the thing that has been stopping me,is that my R only has less than 15K miles on it and I'm almost certain that it doesn't need that yet.

I'm gonna go mess with the throttle cable like you did,I did tighten it earlier this year so it could be that.

Thanks for the tip,hope it works for me.

I'm tired of seeing this light go on and off whenever it feels like.

 

FYI

 

yeah dont mess with the throttle cable. Theres a screw next to the sensor on the top of the throttle body. You might have a plastic piece over it. The screw is a good sized flat head be careful though. Only turn that screw just a little at a time. The $2 haynes manual I have says to use some dam hand held tack. connected to something. All I have is the one on my dash. I dont have any tools except some some screw drivers and a ratchet set. What I did make sure the car is warm and the radiator fan isnt on. The book says make sure your cel isnt on before doing this. I had already cleared mine before I started earlier in the day. OK Turn the car off, unplug that sensor, turn the car on(now my cel comes on d'oh) and adjust the screw until the idle is just under the 1000rpm mark about 8-900rpm. turn off the car plug in the sensor and then remove the 7.5 amp fuse for a few minutes put it back in and your done. My problem I noticed was My idle would drop to like 300 rpms when coming to a stop of the freeway. My engine has only 24k miles and shouldnt have needed all that crap I replaced. I didnt know at the time until I already put the stuff on my car. Im not really hard on my car but I do get in the vtec every now and then. Make sure your timing is straight. Sgt said once your timing is set your pretty much okay. Unless your screwing with cam gears. Stock timing is 16 degrees plus or minus 2 degrees. One time I had too much advanced(car pulled very nicely). Until I noticed a little bit of smoke come out my tip when I cranked it up at idle= time to retard it. Some people I hear advance their timing to 19degrees which I wouldnt do. Ok sorry so long but once i start I cant stop. peace...
I have a 2000-2001 motor btw


[Modified by 98R #448, 5:29 PM 1/29/2002]