Weird Start-up Issue
Vehicle - Integra 1997 Automatic LS
Miles - about 154,000
Issue: Sometimes the car fires up right away - sometimes the engine turns, but takes a few seconds to start (when car starts up, it shakes a bit).
After the car starts, everything runs like normal. The issue is only at when starting the engine.
The RPM during startup goes up then drops close to near zero (shakes a bit) and then its normal.
I noticed this after changing the main power steering hose (non oem).
Things I have done to try to fix issue: new cap and rotor, ignition coil, starter, battery, and main fuel relay.
Anyone have any idea. I took to mechanic but they could not find anything. Remember, sometimes it fires up real nice and sometimes it doesn't.
Miles - about 154,000
Issue: Sometimes the car fires up right away - sometimes the engine turns, but takes a few seconds to start (when car starts up, it shakes a bit).
After the car starts, everything runs like normal. The issue is only at when starting the engine.
The RPM during startup goes up then drops close to near zero (shakes a bit) and then its normal.
I noticed this after changing the main power steering hose (non oem).
Things I have done to try to fix issue: new cap and rotor, ignition coil, starter, battery, and main fuel relay.
Anyone have any idea. I took to mechanic but they could not find anything. Remember, sometimes it fires up real nice and sometimes it doesn't.
Last edited by VenomRx; Mar 23, 2015 at 02:29 PM.
when it has trouble is it seriously cold out or colder then normal?, one free thing you can do is clean the IACV/FITV(if applicable) to try and sort that shaky ness out. But it sounds ignition related all these parts you bought where they OEM Honda(aside from the starter and coil)?.
Weather is normal. Cap and rotor, ignition coil, fuel relay - "Import Direct" - O'reillys. Battery and starter also from O'reillys. I also had the gas pumped checked and it holds pressure.
it's not a foreign concept having bad batteries from part stores, any chance you can test it too see what it reads when "cold starting" it and then once the car is on. Only real thing that comes to mind is a weak battery judging by any of my cars/trucks.
1 other small thing you can try:
proper tension on the ps belt, although I would be amazed if it was so tight it was interfering with "cold cranking"
check all your grounds sometimes bad ground "could" cause interference
assuming your spark plugs are new too.
1 other small thing you can try:
proper tension on the ps belt, although I would be amazed if it was so tight it was interfering with "cold cranking"
check all your grounds sometimes bad ground "could" cause interference
assuming your spark plugs are new too.
Quick question:
To test the battery in a "cold start", I might have to leave the vehicle overnight.
Can I just take out the battery in the morning and get it tested?
Also, I will install new plugs. The ones in there are not that old (3 months). I also have NGK wires (about 1 year old)
To test the battery in a "cold start", I might have to leave the vehicle overnight.
Can I just take out the battery in the morning and get it tested?
Also, I will install new plugs. The ones in there are not that old (3 months). I also have NGK wires (about 1 year old)
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Quick question:
To test the battery in a "cold start", I might have to leave the vehicle overnight.
Can I just take out the battery in the morning and get it tested?
Also, I will install new plugs. The ones in there are not that old (3 months). I also have NGK wires (about 1 year old)
To test the battery in a "cold start", I might have to leave the vehicle overnight.
Can I just take out the battery in the morning and get it tested?
Also, I will install new plugs. The ones in there are not that old (3 months). I also have NGK wires (about 1 year old)
fuel pump, plug wires, icm are a few of the other weak links to keep an eye on. they will bite the big one eventually.
Starting Problems
Starting Problems
I took off the IACV (nuts were in there right tight - looks like it has never been removed) and cleaned it. It was really, really clogged up.
Any tips on how to remove the FITV - 3 bolts and a hose, but there is hardly any space for any tools to fit to remove the bolts. Do I have the remove the hoses underneath (looks like coolant ones)?
I will drive it for a couple of days and report any difference.
A guy at Autozone said it may be the Crankshaft Position sensor (CPK) or the Crankshaft Fluctuating sensor (CFK)? But I never got any check engine light.
Any thoughts?
Last edited by VenomRx; Mar 29, 2015 at 11:41 AM.
fuel pump, plug wires, icm are a few of the other weak links to keep an eye on. they will bite the big one eventually.
Starting Problems
Starting Problems
Icm? How does one check that? Any specific symptoms? I did replace the ignition coil and cap/rotor 3 weeks ago or so.
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