Hey everyone, up til now, I thought my idle problem was due to a vaccuum leak since i installed my direct port nitrous. I sprayed carb cleaner on the 4 nozzles and the rpms didnt go up. So maybe not a vaccuum leak.

So I went to office depot to buy my school stuff (car drops below 700 but didnt stall, close a few times). However, when I when to get back into my car to go home, it wouldnt start at all. I had battery power, I could hear the walbro pump prime, but when I started it, all I heard was the pump priming. I didnt hear the starter or anything with the ignition. After like 10 minutes, it maraciously started but it kept dying. I had to drive home and kept giving it gas so it wouldnt stall. I have the digital 6+, msd SS coil and wires.

Where do I start to check the ignition problem? This is the second time it has died and not started. I dont think it is the starter, but I could be wrong. Could it just be the cap and rotor? Maybe the coil? How do I test it?

 

main relay?

 

Its not the main relay if his fuel pump is priming.

You haven't even told us what kind of car/engine it is.

But, regaurdless, the first thing you should always do is check for codes.

 

96 accord, 98 jdm h22a, no codes.

Is it the starter if I tried to start the car and all I heard was the pump? didnt hear any cranking noise. Or do you need some type of ignition to get the starter going?

 

Watch your LED light on your ECU. When you turn the key ON, the light on the ECU should flash once.

Make sure your battery has 12v. When you turn the key to start, does your starter solenoid click?

Check your starter, one terminal with a big wire should have battery voltage on it, and another terminal with smaller wire on it should have battery voltage when you turn the key to start.

After you check that, make sure the coil in your distributor has 12v on one side when your key is on. When was the last time you changed your cap and rotor?

 

I changed the cap last may i believe when i did the whole ignition system. Rotor has never been changed. I just opened up the cap and this is what I saw with the rotor. Could this be the answer to my idle problem and possibly my weak VTEC problem? Is the OEM honda rotor the only one to buy?



PS: I dont remember how to post pictures....

 

I don't know what you're showing me, you need to set up an account on http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com and host the pics from there.

If you're showing me the rotor charred, or the cap points worn down, then it might be time to change it. IMO, OEM Honda stuff is the way to go.

 

yeah, i was just showing a picture of my rotor, not too important. Should the cap be changed at the same time even though it looks alright?

Could this have anything to do with my weak VTEC when it kicks in? I hear my engine get louder, but harder feel any pull at all.

 

Oh, you should always change the cap and rotor at the same time!

Run! Now! Go change your rotor!

 

Hey, I changed my cap and rotor today. Seems as though the idle problem has gone away except for the occasional dip down to ~600rpm, but it catches itself and goes back up. I let my car idle and pulled out the IACV plug and it lowered the rpms to 550rpms. I forgot what that mean, but is the IACV ok?

However, my vtec is still quite weak. It because weak after I installed a mess of stuff including the walbro 255lph pump, b&m fpr and guage, 8 heat range plugs (2 steps colder for the nitrous), and toluene as an octane booster. I dont know what could make my vtec weak though. Just sounds like the engine gets louder but no surge in power. No check engine lights. Any ideas or tests? Im going to do a valve adjustment for the first time this wed for the hell of it.

 

For the IACV, you unplug it and set your idle with your accessories off.

I'd definately do a valve adjustment. If you're still concerned, do a leakdown and compression test. Make sure you have your fuel pressure set correctly. I guess thats about it. Change your fuel filter if it hasn't been done in a while maybe?

 

My compression test was like 205 avg across all 4. Did it a few weeks ago. Fuel pressure is turned all the way down....only goes down to 42psi at WOT. Fuel filter was changed about 2.5 yrs ago when i did my swap. What should the fuel pressure be?

 

No idea.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRX PAT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Watch your LED light on your ECU. When you turn the key ON, the light on the ECU should flash once.
</TD></TR></TABLE> I could be wrong but OBD II ECU's don't have LED's, right?

 

I have no idea, but I just checked my oil level, about 2/3 up the stick, so I poured another .5 qts to make it to the top level. Took my car to VTEC in 1st and 2nd gear at both 4800rpms and 5200rpms and it just got really loud with no pull. I can feel a slight pull in 1st, but second is really weak, just a loud sound....