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Old 01-08-2004, 09:27 AM
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Default trans swap

i just bought a 94 ls non-vtec automatic integra and was wonderin how muych it cost to do the manual swap. and what parts do i need?
Old 01-08-2004, 09:34 AM
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Default Re: trans swap (nohondayet)

I just searched in the archieves for tranny swap and got 377 threads. I bet what your looking for is in there
Old 01-08-2004, 09:45 AM
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Default Re: trans swap (RedTegLS)

At least $1300.

I did the auto to manual swap about two months ago and it cost me about $1000 for the parts and $500 for the labor. I got a GSR tranny tho...it'll probably be a couple hundred cheaper for an LS tranny. As far as parts here's what you'll need:

1. Manual ECU P75 (OBD1 for 94-95, OBD2 for 96+)
2. Manual tranny
3. Shift linkage
4. Clutch/flywheel/fork/throwout bearing setup (you'll also need the flywheel and clutch bolts)
5. Slave cylinder and hydraulic lines
6. Master Cylinder and reservoir
7. Clutch Pedal
8. Brake pedal (optional, but will be easier to shift if you get the small pedal)
9. OEM front and rear tranny mounts (front mount is the same as auto...the rear mount is different)
10. Custom top tranny mount (you can get one at http://www.placeracing.com for $150)
11. Manual intermediate shaft (axle...it looks the same as the auto but it's slightly different)
12. 5speed starter AND the bolt that goes with the starter
13. Flywheel cover (optional, but will protect your clutch...if you don't get it, stuff can get in the clutch and screw it up.)

If you plan on doing this, here's a few tips:

*Get EVERYTHING on this list. If you want to swap, do it right, or don't do it at all.
*Unless the hydraulic lines are brand new, it's going to be a royal pain getting them to fit. What i did is just bought some generic steel lines and fabricated my own hydraulic line....it was MUCH easier because it's easier to bend.
*You have to drill two holes in the center console frame to get the shift linkage/shift lever to screw in.
*Be patient...it's going to take a while and you WILL run into complications along the way. It's worth it at the end though
Old 01-08-2004, 12:14 PM
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Default Re: trans swap (jdmintegra1994)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmintegra1994 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">At least $1300.

I did the auto to manual swap about two months ago and it cost me about $1000 for the parts and $500 for the labor. I got a GSR tranny tho...it'll probably be a couple hundred cheaper for an LS tranny. As far as parts here's what you'll need:

1. Manual ECU P75 (OBD1 for 94-95, OBD2 for 96+)
2. Manual tranny
3. Shift linkage
4. Clutch/flywheel/fork/throwout bearing setup (you'll also need the flywheel and clutch bolts)
5. Slave cylinder and hydraulic lines
6. Master Cylinder and reservoir
7. Clutch Pedal
8. Brake pedal (optional, but will be easier to shift if you get the small pedal)
9. OEM front and rear tranny mounts (front mount is the same as auto...the rear mount is different)
10. Custom top tranny mount (you can get one at http://www.placeracing.com for $150)
11. Manual intermediate shaft (axle...it looks the same as the auto but it's slightly different)
12. 5speed starter AND the bolt that goes with the starter
13. Flywheel cover (optional, but will protect your clutch...if you don't get it, stuff can get in the clutch and screw it up.)

If you plan on doing this, here's a few tips:

*Get EVERYTHING on this list. If you want to swap, do it right, or don't do it at all.
*Unless the hydraulic lines are brand new, it's going to be a royal pain getting them to fit. What i did is just bought some generic steel lines and fabricated my own hydraulic line....it was MUCH easier because it's easier to bend.
*You have to drill two holes in the center console frame to get the shift linkage/shift lever to screw in.
*Be patient...it's going to take a while and you WILL run into complications along the way. It's worth it at the end though </TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks man i needed to know all that aswell...!
Old 01-08-2004, 06:27 PM
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Default Re: trans swap (jdmintegra1994)

is the ecu really neccessary? i thought that you could just "delete" the sensors and that would keep the cel from coming on. this is what i heard from one of the local shops. they said you could run the car without doing anything to the ecu but your cel would be on. but im not gonna do that. if im gettin this done its gonna be done rite. jdmintegra1994, what problems have you had so far? did you do the swap yourself or did you have a shop do it for ya? and do you have to completly drop out the engine to take off the tranny? gimme some setails. thanx for the advice
Old 01-08-2004, 06:36 PM
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Default Re: trans swap (nohondayet)

Cost is a function of resources...
If you can find the pedal assembly, clutch resevoir, and relevant lines from a salvage yard or fellow HT for a good deal that will drastically cut your cost. I have seen them go for around $100
second the tranny is another thing to consider they range from 400-1200 used depending on what you are goin for. If you are gonna go the conversion route I would settle for no less than a GSR tranny, it offers more aggressive gearing than the LS trans and still gives you some peace of mind when cruising on the highway (ITR & SI tranny devour rpms when cruising on the highway 5k at around 90mph)
Finally if you are mechanically inclined you might want to consider doing the job yourself it is a straight forward proceedure and will save you the 4 plus hours a mechanic would charge. You can do the math
P.S. Don't forget the flywheel and clutch preferrably new and aftermarket~
Old 01-08-2004, 10:19 PM
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Default Re: trans swap (jdmvtec28)

im doing the swap right now and jdmintegra knows what some of the shiiet im going through.. if your gonna do the swap yourself better have a gang of tools and a local junkyard with everything.. here are some of the problems ive encountered..

1. money problems (ex: 5 dollar bolts to bolt on your flywheel!!!)
2. mounts, mounts and mounts
3. missing misc bolts and nuts
4. engine block lopsided after bolting on the tranny
5. taillight does not turn off when car is running
6. moving shift lever left to right in neutral is rough
7. fitting of hydrolic lines
8. wires in center console

so far in my 5th day.. make sure you have extra bolts, nuts and screws laying around you will be dealing mostly with 10mm, 14mm, 17mm
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