shift link pin
pin on the shift rod is inserted from the bottom and there is no way i can knock it out from top. any methods i don't know about could help me in this situation
pic for reference of what im talking about, #28
pic for reference of what im talking about, #28
What are you asking? You knock it out from the bottom....it's a cylindrical pin...it'll go straight through from one hole to the other.
Use a straight punch & whack it through......end of story
Use a straight punch & whack it through......end of story
have u ever looked at the pin? one end of it is stretched so it wouldn't go all the way through like end of a brake line, this is the way that should face the top but in my story it's facing down so no matter how i knock it out it stays in solid
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by qazaq »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">have u ever looked at the pin? one end of it is stretched so it wouldn't go all the way through like end of a brake line, this is the way that should face the top but in my story it's facing down so no matter how i knock it out it stays in solid </TD></TR></TABLE>
Then yours is jacked up....it's SUPPOSED to be cylindrical with the Z cuts so it can compress to go in the linkage then, when it gets in, it expands
To answer your question, YES, I've looked at a pin....knocked them out multiple times (from the bottom with a straight punch) and put them back in the same way.
If it will only come out one way....you can always pull the trans and drop the whole assembly...knock it out the way it'll go, and tote your happy *** to Honda and get a new one. It SHOULD go straight through with a STRAIGHT punch (so that the punch doesn't make it expand when it pushes through).
Sounds like someone used the wrong thing to put the linkage back in....or messed up your pin...sucks *****...but it happens. Makes me want to shoot ppl when you see that they f*cked $hit up "fixing" stuff.
Then yours is jacked up....it's SUPPOSED to be cylindrical with the Z cuts so it can compress to go in the linkage then, when it gets in, it expands
To answer your question, YES, I've looked at a pin....knocked them out multiple times (from the bottom with a straight punch) and put them back in the same way.
If it will only come out one way....you can always pull the trans and drop the whole assembly...knock it out the way it'll go, and tote your happy *** to Honda and get a new one. It SHOULD go straight through with a STRAIGHT punch (so that the punch doesn't make it expand when it pushes through).
Sounds like someone used the wrong thing to put the linkage back in....or messed up your pin...sucks *****...but it happens. Makes me want to shoot ppl when you see that they f*cked $hit up "fixing" stuff.
from top is not as easy as it sounds, there is less than an inch space to work with even if u take it out it's not going to make a difference
______
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------l---| tranny
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pin
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------l---| tranny
------l---|_______
^
pin
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,023
Likes: 59
From: Nowhere and Everywhere
Dude, you punch it up from below. That's how it's done. Don't worry, it's short enough to be able to come out from above even though there doesn't appear to be much clearance above the linkage.
If yours is flared out on one end, that means someone tried to stick a tapered tool of some kind in there to get it out. That ended up expanding the bottom of the pin, which makes it next to impossible to remove. You have to use a punch or bolt or some other tool that is the same size as the OUTSIDE diameter of the pin so that it won't spread the pin apart.
I had to remove my shift linkage once last year. I had purchased a new pin, but it was next to impossible to hammer the new one in with the limited space I had underneath the car. So when I pulled my engine out a few weeks ago, I bought this tool from Matco for my air hammer, made specifically for the Honda shift linkage pin:

The smallest end is sized to fit inside the spring pin. The next stepped portion is sized the same as the pin's outside diameter, and is long enough to go all the way through the linkage to get the spring pin all the way out. That makes it very easy to remove and install the pin (just slip the pin over the end of the tool and drive it in). I was also able to install the new pin that I couldn't get in last time. The tool was about $40 shipped, but IMHO it was worth every penny to be able to remove and install that pin in about 3 seconds flat, with almost no effort, instead of screwing around with it forever.
If you don't have air, they also have a regular punch with the same step on the end, specifically made for the Honda shift linkage pin, but it's only a few dollars less than the air hammer tool.

http://www.matcotools.com/Cata...64&ut=
If yours is flared out on one end, that means someone tried to stick a tapered tool of some kind in there to get it out. That ended up expanding the bottom of the pin, which makes it next to impossible to remove. You have to use a punch or bolt or some other tool that is the same size as the OUTSIDE diameter of the pin so that it won't spread the pin apart.
I had to remove my shift linkage once last year. I had purchased a new pin, but it was next to impossible to hammer the new one in with the limited space I had underneath the car. So when I pulled my engine out a few weeks ago, I bought this tool from Matco for my air hammer, made specifically for the Honda shift linkage pin:

The smallest end is sized to fit inside the spring pin. The next stepped portion is sized the same as the pin's outside diameter, and is long enough to go all the way through the linkage to get the spring pin all the way out. That makes it very easy to remove and install the pin (just slip the pin over the end of the tool and drive it in). I was also able to install the new pin that I couldn't get in last time. The tool was about $40 shipped, but IMHO it was worth every penny to be able to remove and install that pin in about 3 seconds flat, with almost no effort, instead of screwing around with it forever.
If you don't have air, they also have a regular punch with the same step on the end, specifically made for the Honda shift linkage pin, but it's only a few dollars less than the air hammer tool.

http://www.matcotools.com/Cata...64&ut=
There's a very distinct reason why this tiny little object quickly and accurately acquired it's nickname: "The Bitchpin".
The unfortunate part is that there is almost no way of accessing it from the top should you somehow manage to screw it up from the bottom. A guy I once knew made a clamp for getting it out using some hedge clippers. You attached it to the linkage closed the handles and the handles actuated a small punch that popped it out clean every time.
The unfortunate part is that there is almost no way of accessing it from the top should you somehow manage to screw it up from the bottom. A guy I once knew made a clamp for getting it out using some hedge clippers. You attached it to the linkage closed the handles and the handles actuated a small punch that popped it out clean every time.
yeah, the first time i took that pin out it must have took me 2 hours of hitting it with a punch and hammer.
here's the best way i found:
Get a can of dust off (the stuff in the can used to clean your keyboard), turn it upside down (makes it cold as hell) and spray it all over the pin. The pin will freeze up and contract, just hit it with an 8mm punch and it should pop right out.
To get it back in, just leave the pin in the freezer for a few hours and and it should slip right in with a whack or two from the hammer.
here's the best way i found:
Get a can of dust off (the stuff in the can used to clean your keyboard), turn it upside down (makes it cold as hell) and spray it all over the pin. The pin will freeze up and contract, just hit it with an 8mm punch and it should pop right out.
To get it back in, just leave the pin in the freezer for a few hours and and it should slip right in with a whack or two from the hammer.
Thats A pretty good idea, I think I might buy that matco tool though. How I accessed it from the top was I pulled the engine out with the shift linkage still on a lil until the shift linkage was out as much as possible before it would bend on my frame and the ground. When it gets to that point I had so much room to hit it from the top and it came out really easy. But you need 2 people to do this. Try freezing it like boarderwayne did and tell me if it works cuz if it does then saving 40 bucks
that's some good options guys, i like the idea of freezing. but i think im gonna try something else and tap that bitch inside screw a bolt in and pull it out
i would pull the tranny out but i just don't have time to do so
i would pull the tranny out but i just don't have time to do so
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,023
Likes: 59
From: Nowhere and Everywhere
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by qazaq »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">that's some good options guys, i like the idea of freezing. but i think im gonna try something else and tap that bitch inside screw a bolt in and pull it out
i would pull the tranny out but i just don't have time to do so</TD></TR></TABLE>
Running a tap through there will not work. The pin will try to expand when you try to run the tap up through there.
The air hammer tool is expensive, but it sure is fun using it.
i would pull the tranny out but i just don't have time to do so</TD></TR></TABLE>
Running a tap through there will not work. The pin will try to expand when you try to run the tap up through there.
The air hammer tool is expensive, but it sure is fun using it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The air hammer tool is expensive, but it sure is fun using it.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
lol that sounds good
</TD></TR></TABLE>lol that sounds good
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