Ok so here is my problem. After driving on freeway for about 30 min @ 3.5k-4.0k RPM or so my overflow tank begins to spew coolant and eventualy ofcourse system runs low pressure and car begins to overheat...
Overheating does NOT occur in city, even if its 100+ degrees and I am boosting 14-16 psi.
1) I am thinking could it be the radiator not hacking it anymore? Its some gay aftermarket thin radiator, not even sure what brand.
2) Could it be heatsoak from the turbine/ pipe?
3) Maybe the head gasket? But I have 0 white smoke or any smoke at all.
4) radiator cap not holding pressure?
5) I need to buy a new car?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slowassgsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok so here is my problem. After driving on freeway for about 30 min @ 3.5k-4.0k RPM or so my overflow tank begins to spew coolant and eventualy ofcourse system runs low pressure and car begins to overheat...
Overheating does NOT occur in city, even if its 100+ degrees and I am boosting 14-16 psi.
1) I am thinking could it be the radiator not hacking it anymore? Its some gay aftermarket thin radiator, not even sure what brand.
2) Could it be heatsoak from the turbine/ pipe?
3) Maybe the head gasket? But I have 0 white smoke or any smoke at all.
4) radiator cap not holding pressure?
5) I need to buy a new car?

</TD></TR></TABLE>


^ could be your problem. im no turbo expert but you should be running at least a oem sized radiator. that turbo well be producing a lot of heat and a bigger thicker radiator well help to dissipate the heat.

 

Hey guys, I just found an ariticle online adressing the overheating issue at high speeds...
http://halia.meccahosting.com/...s.htm

 

^^^ notice the bold in me quoting you??? that's your blockage.

 

Check the radiator cap. Could be no good, they give up quickly on those aftermarkets radiators. Or buy a fluidlyne radiator.

 

this may be stupid but the system is full, right? when i flushed mine last, i blew it out completely and it left some air pockets in the system that didnt bleed out when i was filling it up again. good luck with your problem.

 

i am going to tell you to start snall like cap and such but i think its your waterpump if it does it while you drive but maybe not at idle my car would overheat at idle and such and even when i would just cruise but when i would beat on it so to speak it would cool off this was because when i would cruise the water pump dident have to work as hard and it was not doing its job as the rpm increased it had to spin faster and would inturn keep the car cooler just food for thought keep it in mind and my cars turbo also with a half size rad i change it and everything worked great

 

wow it took me like 3 tries to read that.
Try sentences.

 

Uhm yes, my car is doing just the opposite...
Runs normal idle-cruise and overheating on hi-way.
I flushed the system yesterday just in case, also I checked inside the radiator from the cap opening for build up. I noticed some salt/crap like build around the slits inside the radiator. Anyways I am looking for an aluminum radiator on ebay right now; also, I want to run dual fans since I live in Sacramento.

 

Ok this problem is starting to really **** me off. The car now wants to overflow the catch can, causing air in the system. After the engine cools off, the system does not suck any coolant from the catch can back at all.

 

u mean coolant flow back in tank reserve?catch can is holds oil.did u try checkin if there is any leaks from radiator?

 

Yes, the radiator is fine, there are no leaks anywhere. Catch can I mean the coolant can. Anyways, I am on my way to NAPA, going to buy the hydrocarbon test kit, i am prety sure I have a blown head gasket.

 

I just tested my coolant system for a blown HG, reults are negative. I assume only thing left is the radiator or the water pump... I really see nothing else.

 

is your fan spinning the wrong way? it would be fine around town but on the highway it overheats like a *****, a car came into our shop that has this problem, they just had there rad fan replaced by a GM dealer lol

 

if there no leak then it can be your thermostat.

 

I would put some money down that its your aftermarket thin *** radiator. Turbo charging a car puts a lot more stress into your cooling system. The aftermarket and OEM radiators were not meant for a turbo charged setup.

I would go with a larger aluminum setup, I can almost guarantee you thats your problem.

 

Hey guys does anyone have anypics of the coolant bleeder screw on the front of the 1997 acura gsr head, by the top radiator hose. My woman is trying to bleed her coolant system but can't seem to find the screw.

 

Thank you sir, I will pick one up sometime this week. I was thinking of the ebay aluminum radiator, like Mishimoto or something close to that. 2-3 row radiator.
My fans spin the right way btw, and the thermostat is functioning just fine.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mr. Grind &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey guys does anyone have anypics of the coolant bleeder screw on the front of the 1997 acura gsr head, by the top radiator hose. My woman is trying to bleed her coolant system but can't seem to find the screw.</TD></TR></TABLE>

OBD-2 Integras do not have a bleed screw.

As for the radiator, even if it's thin, I would think it would still work okay with all that air rushing through it at highway speeds. Perhaps there is some kind of blockage in the radiator. Are all of the radiator fins in good shape, or are any of them crushed flat?

 

check the water pump

 

OBDII integras DO have a bleeder screw. But it's on the front of the block behind the header. No reason to take it off, really, just drain the coolant from the radiator.

 

the bleeder screw and drain screws are different. I am just making sure there are no air pockets in the cooling system.

 

Uhm don't be jacking my thread dude, start a new one.

 

Did you try looking in the Forced Induction forum? Probably more ppl with this type of problem over there.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tim2179 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">OBDII integras DO have a bleeder screw. But it's on the front of the block behind the header. No reason to take it off, really, just drain the coolant from the radiator.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's the drain plug, and if you pull that out you'll have a HUGE mess all over the place.

All B-series and D-series engines have this plug in this spot.

A bleed screw wouldn't work in that location anyway. It has to be at the highest point of the cooling system. On OBD-1 Integras that's where the upper rad hose connects to the head.