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i was having issues with my car cutting off randomly before i decided to park it in the garage for about 8 months. a couple of things i found was my idler bolt missing on my blox throttle body and my ecu back up fuse was blown (kind of odd). i replaced the idler bolt and re-calibrated my tps tp 0.5v and replaced the blown fuse. since my car was sitting for a period of time i went ahead and added roughly 4 gallons of gas with some octane booster. my car will fire up and rev kind of high (2k rpm), but i can fix it once i get everything working, but once i give it gas it dies. here are things ive tried and checked.
my ignition setup so you know what i have:
b16 distributor (its gutted, no icm and no coil)
send it racing ICM bypass
summit racing ignition
crane fireball external coil
msd cap and rotor
ngk sparks (cant remember the box number off hand but they have about 500-1000 miles on them)
ngk wires modified to fit into the msd cap (msd provides the needed items to convert spark wires to work)
1000cc precision injectors
stock fpr
golden eagle fuel rail
walbro 255 fuel pump
things i have checked/ back probed to see if its getting power:
i installed an aem fuel pressure gauge (on the fuel rail) and im getting pressure at 49-50 psi and it stays roughly around there while idling
send it racing unit, summit box and external coil all are getting power from the back probe check
went into hondata and reset the tps at closed throttle and WOT throttle
battery is fully charged and is put a trickle charger when im not tooling with the car
all fuses are good
IACV cleaned with brake cleaner and air out with an air compressor before reinstalling
with all of that being said...im truly stump as to what is going on with my car. what trips me out even more so than this, is that my brothers fully built b16 turbo he has in his crx that sat in his garage for about 3 years with no driving. fires up with newly added gas with octane booster and we drove it to a friends house later that day. so of course im like wth?!?!?
oh yeah, do i have a brand new fuel filter laying around in my garage, should i just swap that out?
my setup: (dont think i need to list the full setup here)
gsr turbo
cp pistons
manley rods
Not sure why you added octane booster instead of fuel stabilizer.
yeah i thought about that after i did it but since i did it with my brothers car i figured why not. i think the issue i have is lack of spark. i removed the dizzy cap and the electrodes (not sure what the copper things are called on the inside of the cap) have a lot of carbon build up. more than normal, so i ordered a new cap and should be here friday for me to test.
you're running 1000cc injectors with the stock FPR? Ditch that crap and get an Aeromotive one. As for the external coil, the stock Honda setup works fine...no need for aftermarket.
you're running 1000cc injectors with the stock FPR? Ditch that crap and get an Aeromotive one. As for the external coil, the stock Honda setup works fine...no need for aftermarket.
Originally Posted by CandyRedRC46
Yeah I would be concerned on the reliability on all those aftermarket ignition components.
yeah i hear what you guys are saying and sorry for the late response, just been busy.
i did some additional test and replaced my msd cap with a new one but i left the old rotor on. still same symptom. swapped the fuel pump and put the stock back in, same symptom. the reason why i switch my ignition system was because my tuner noticed that he had to close the gap more and more while tuning the vehicle a while back. i believe the gap was finally set to .018 and that is a pretty small gap. i upgraded the ignition system from a suggestion off a fellow member/friend in the turbo community in HT and it resolved my issue with spark blow. i increased the gap to .023 and the car ran fine but now its totally different. another friend of mine that works at the dealer suggested me to find another dizzy to test it out to see if thats the issue to eliminate the upgraded ignition vs stock ignition. getting a hold of a dizzy from ppl i know its damn near impossible but i found some for sale for a reason price in which im thinking about doing since my stock original dizzy is dead. the actual rotor rotation assemble needed to be replaced/rebuilt but from what i understand honda doesnt sale a rebuild kit for it.
so should i look into using a regular dizzy to see if the issue continues because ive tried pretty much everything. ive also noticed that the idle is really high when i fire up the vehicle. it sits around 2.3k and thats with the tps set to .50
Yeah I would be concerned on the reliability on all those aftermarket ignition components.
Perhaps you're just not used to that system. Very reliable combination that's been run for years that enhances the reliability of the stock distributor, without the drawbacks. He's fine, and as long as that was hooked up properly, no issue there.
I've run that for over 10 years myself. Great for endurance racing, and only changing to something else due to my Haltech.
Perhaps you're just not used to that system. Very reliable combination that's been run for years that enhances the reliability of the stock distributor, without the drawbacks. He's fine, and as long as that was hooked up properly, no issue there.
I've run that for over 10 years myself. Great for endurance racing, and only changing to something else due to my Haltech.
thanks for the insight but im still not clear as to why my car dies after i give it gas. i tested the IAT and its fine. i swapped my MAP sensor and put the OEM sensor back in (set hondata to read the stock MAP) same issue. im really drawling a blank here bro. i really dont want to throw money at my engine and hope for the best. im up for any suggestions on things to check.
thanks for the insight but im still not clear as to why my car dies after i give it gas. i tested the IAT and its fine. i swapped my MAP sensor and put the OEM sensor back in (set hondata to read the stock MAP) same issue. im really drawling a blank here bro. i really dont want to throw money at my engine and hope for the best. im up for any suggestions on things to check.
That was more for CandyRedR46.. Not yourself.
I'm still wondering what's up. Going through this in my head for you..
I'm still wondering what's up. Going through this in my head for you..
a few things i havent tried:
a different ECU (im sure the ECU is ok since hondata is functioning)
different dizzy where i can go back to stock to bypass my upgraded ignition system
pull the motor and install a dynamite to explode this build
i havent changed the spark plugs, but i really dont think theyre the issue
ive checked my injector wiring to see if its out of order, i dont believe it is. the reason why i doubled check is because i bought a new fuel rail a few months ago and swapped it out from the stock.
mine is wired in this manor with my resistor box
could this be a cause of my main relay? i have never changed it.
if you want i can do a short video of what is going on tomorrow and paste the video link here if you like.
Last edited by justYncredible; 01-23-2018 at 09:23 PM.
I guess I'm a little stubborn. If the upgraded ignition system was working before these issues, it's extremely unlikely that going back to complete stock will fix the issue. Ignition systems are still static components that enhance the spark that the car needs to have while being turbocharged. If anything, look to your proper grounds to ensure that no rust has developed there, including creating (or purchasing) a grounding kit. (I've had a TON of problems solved that way. You know how finicky these engines are with electrical grounds, so I would suspect this before the ignition system at all.)
Secondly, I find that just because Hondata is working doesn't mean that the other basic functions of the ECU are working properly. Even one or two capcitors that have failed can cause issues, even though Hondata is working. Hondata looks at the basic code functions of the OEM ECU and accesses them. That doesn't mean that if a capacitor is bad or another physical problem of the ECU is present, that Hondata would automatically see it. (Which is kinda why I don't use Hondata. It's a symbiotic part of the engine management; if the ECU doesn't work, Hondata may still function, just not very well.
Lastly, I don't think its the main relay. It may be another relay that may assist in this issue, but I don't think the main relay itself would the problem. However, as a matter of course, there's nothing wrong with changing both.
If you're giving fuel and its "dying", could it be too much fuel trim in the initial tune? Is it fully tuned yet? That part I don't remember.. so, please remind me.
I guess I'm a little stubborn. If the upgraded ignition system was working before these issues, it's extremely unlikely that going back to complete stock will fix the issue. Ignition systems are still static components that enhance the spark that the car needs to have while being turbocharged. If anything, look to your proper grounds to ensure that no rust has developed there, including creating (or purchasing) a grounding kit. (I've had a TON of problems solved that way. You know how finicky these engines are with electrical grounds, so I would suspect this before the ignition system at all.)
Secondly, I find that just because Hondata is working doesn't mean that the other basic functions of the ECU are working properly. Even one or two capcitors that have failed can cause issues, even though Hondata is working. Hondata looks at the basic code functions of the OEM ECU and accesses them. That doesn't mean that if a capacitor is bad or another physical problem of the ECU is present, that Hondata would automatically see it. (Which is kinda why I don't use Hondata. It's a symbiotic part of the engine management; if the ECU doesn't work, Hondata may still function, just not very well.
Lastly, I don't think its the main relay. It may be another relay that may assist in this issue, but I don't think the main relay itself would the problem. However, as a matter of course, there's nothing wrong with changing both.
If you're giving fuel and its "dying", could it be too much fuel trim in the initial tune? Is it fully tuned yet? That part I don't remember.. so, please remind me.
the engine is tuned fully to my wastegate spring but we havent done the max amount as yet which isnt the issue at hand. im going to contact a friend of mine to see if i can borrow his ecu to see if that is the issue. if can fire it up and give it gas and it doesnt die that should at least answer that question. as for the ground cables there is only three if memory serves me right. thermostat housing, tranny and valve cover all have their grounds in place. i did replace the stock ground of the valve cover with a new one i bought a while back at the parts store but it was fine with it back then. i did get one good rev out of the motor today, whoa! please check out the video below and hopefully we can carry on this conversation.
update:
(the issue still present this is a list of things i have changed)
things i have replaced with no success
new ecu plus had hondata re-socket my new ecu with the s300
replaced msd cap
replaced the rotor in the dizzy with one i picked up at oreilys today
replaced the iacv from a civic a friend had. the car fired up, idle fine and didnt die once i gave it gas for a moment and then the next day it was back to acting strange
replaced the tps from a civic throttle body since theyre all the same
checked all wiring again, everything is solid since its all soldered and has heat shrink for protection
checked all vaccum lines as well
(also, not sure if it matters but i removed that little black box that sits behind the IM and connects to the charcoal can. i dont think thats the issue since its been gone way before this even happen.)
still unclear as to what can be going on. what else should i be looking into?
here is a video of my tps reading going all over the place.
update:
(the issue still present this is a list of things i have changed)
things i have replaced with no success
new ecu plus had hondata re-socket my new ecu with the s300
replaced msd cap
replaced the rotor in the dizzy with one i picked up at oreilys today
replaced the iacv from a civic a friend had. the car fired up, idle fine and didnt die once i gave it gas for a moment and then the next day it was back to acting strange
replaced the tps from a civic throttle body since theyre all the same
checked all wiring again, everything is solid since its all soldered and has heat shrink for protection
checked all vaccum lines as well
(also, not sure if it matters but i removed that little black box that sits behind the IM and connects to the charcoal can. i dont think thats the issue since its been gone way before this even happen.)
still unclear as to what can be going on. what else should i be looking into?
That's at WOT & at fully shut? What TPS are you using?
I guess I'm not understanding how you're checking TPS voltage here
fully shut and its a OEM tps and im tapping off the red wire going to the tps i have used the ground on the thermal stat housing. ive used this wire on my first build with no issue but im not sure as to why its all over the place. im going to try my stock throttle body to see if that makes any difference, which i doubt but its worth a try. a friend of mine at work mentioned he had similar issues and it turned out it was the throttle body. that seems extremely odd but im willing to try anything since now im moving towards my ignition system. i feel like a damn investigator trying to figure out wth is wrong with my car.
01-09-2018, 01:15 PM
not sure what is going on with my turbo teg
