CodeB4U

Noobie doobie doobie dooo here.

I'm trying to get my DA Integra that's been sitting in the garage for a good 7 years i suppose. So, it's time to make it a toy.

I'm in hopes of trying to get 500 "normal" ride around the streets HP, and 600+ HP at the track with upping the boost on a Fully built LS/Non VTEC Head. So, the question i been getting every time i talk to someone about it, and every time i call a performance shop is....why do you want to stick with non-vtec??...basically "i don't want vtec to kick in yo !!!" lol.

I want to beat alot of the imports and domestics with no vtec....i mean I'm not the most knowledgeable person about Honda VTEC motors but isn't it just basically a bigger lobe once it kicks in...smaller for lower RPM and bigger for top end....more RPM's ofcourse, best of both worlds, right?

Well i don't plan on being in the lower RPM very much...it's really just going to be a once a month car...and that once a month is going to be racing the **** out of it. I'm going to have fun with it **rubbing hands together like a fly**

I'm getting the stock LS head ported and polished with all new valvetrain, everything i can possibly do to the head is what i wanna do. I already have a BLOX intake manifold, I'm probably going to go with water cooled turbo intercooler (secret service auto showed me a cool one when i dropped off my engine block) which it got rid of alot of the piping which i liked. I mean im going to have grands just dumped into the motor. But, since i been out the import game since....****... forever it seems like...lets just say, i got out the import game two years before the first K series motor was coming out...which i think was the RSX who had that...i dont remember.

Here is what i have so far, just a little over a month in...took a while for the block to be done. I have other components like a Walbro fuel pump, Fuel rail with fuel pressure regulator, Nitto drags...but really going to need wrinkle walls..but the drags are going to be for the late night streets, CV joint to handle the extra HP and shock its going to receive, adjustable cam gears, still need to get compatible fuel injectors..this and that...blah blah...you get the picture. lol. But this is part of the main components.




Cliff notes: Tell me what i need to get 500-600+HP with the help of a snail.[/quote]

PatrickGSR94

iTrader: (1)

ummm alot.

Read the forced induction forum, and read it often. Post questions only when necessary.

Welcome to H-T Be sure to review the stickies and announcements up top.

sik96teg

You need to post in the force induction section. Not the smartest when it comes to honda turbo setups but it will be hard as hell to do. I havent seen any built LS motors making that power but i havent searched for any either. even if you do go with a vtec head the engagement is normally set high anyways. Secondly for that amount of power you shouldve had the whole motor setup mapped out before buying anything. You cant just get expensive part and think it is going to increase your power. It very well may take away power.

dntnedvtec

That pretty much sums it up. FI are the guys to talk to. Of course, you will run into the few who will make your thread useless, but stay focused, and before you know it, you will be trotting around with the power your happy with. Just don't be the kid/guy who wanted 700hp auto X car with a stock tranny.

dntnedvtec

SOmewhere, there is a 600hp Built LS around here. Big money.

Read the bold.

sik96teg

What i meant was if you plan on making that amount of power and you have to ask what you need to do to obtain that goal you shouldnt spend money on work and parts that may need to be changed to obtain your goal. I wouldve got as much info on what i needed to do then started to buy parts not the other way around. Wasnt trying to b a dick just didnt want him to end up spending excess money.

sik96teg

damn ur n MN. I hated living up there only a few good months to drive my teg but everyone would be out cruising and having meets to get in as much time as possible during the summer which was cool.

dntnedvtec

Oh, I know your not being a dick, I was just agreeing with you. Throwing money on pricy parts can hurt. I have learned the hard way. Imagine spending money on a port job, that lost power. yeah, I know.

Yeah, 4 months of driving in the summer, and gotta prep for snow. Pull out the winter beater!!

CodeB4U

Thanks.


Please elaborate, why is it not? Is it because it's not a VTEC head? Isn't it the same at high RPM? I mean lets say a Crower 404 in a vtec head and a Crower 404 Non-vtec? (if they are even the same cam profiles) Just a thought.

Like how mapped out? I knew i wanted the bottom end sleeved, pistons to the compression ratio it is suppose to be at, manley rod...well strength, crank micro polished, knife edged and balanced...for lightness & better oil flow. The head...well i know it's going to be fully built...Maybe that i need to map out more precise. How will it fully built and ported and polish might hurt performance? To much porting? This is my first honda engine build. Thanks for commenting


Well, i figured my stock tranny would blow pretty fast after repeated abuse. I plan on getting a fly wheel, performance clutch and it's components by the leading performer in clutch assembly. Only thing i haven't looked much into right now is gears...i know i probably will need hardened gears or dog gear setup and i dont know if the case will hold up to it either....who know the case might crack before the gear set does. I need to do some research on that.

PatrickGSR94

iTrader: (1)

non-VTEC engines have a different bore and stroke length, and different rod stroke ratios than VTEC engines do, which is part of the reason why non-VTEC engines have lower RPM redline. That's also part of the reason why VTEC engines can usually make more power, because they can safely run at a higher RPM.

You can rev higher than stock safely by doing plenty of valvetrain upgrades, but that still doesn't change the bore and stroke length. If you try to start changing that, well then you might as well just go with a VTEC engine as the starting point in the first place.

CodeB4U

So i don't think the bottom end of a B18C1 and B18A1 is different enough to make a significant difference..B18A1 beats or is equal in everything in the B18C1 except in the R/S ratio...by .04... and the Intake valve diameter...which wont matter because the LS head being built to move more air...

///Nick

soo.... you want to get 500hp out of a non vtec engine?? i think it would be pretty hard with an a1. if you build a b20b or z you might, the b20 is just a bored ls.. correct me if im wrong. just do full msd and some cams, thats all i can think of.

Spawne32

iTrader: (3)

dont let the nay sayers get to you, you have the right stuff, select the right turbo and components to match, and 500hp is an easy goal to reach. Send your head out to endyn and have it turbo ported, and use some good turbo cams as well. The R/S ratio is negligible compared to the GSR, and the trade off between the GSR and B18B/A stroke is how much torque the motor makes.

DA 4 Lyfe

Pics of said DA?

CodeB4U

oh no, way to embarrassing the way it sits. It's got mounds upon mounds of junk all on top of it. Next time i go to the garage i will take pictures. Which will be real soon. I need to make the trip sometime this week.