Tonight I made my very own "BSQ" DIY Icebox intake. After admiring my craftsmanship I decided to reset the ECU to get optimal gains from my new mod. I pulled the "ECU" fuse from the fuse box under the hood. The fuse was labeled "15." I turned the ignition on to the "II" position and waited. Then I started the car and saw that my ABS light was not turning off. I went for a drive and it still did not shut off. Can someone please help me with my little problem. What needs to be done to turn the ABS light off?

Thanks In Advance

PS- My new "icebox" works great. I modified the stock airbox slightly to make it fit with a AEM short ram air intake. It is not as loud, but I definetly feel more low end compared to the open air element. I'll take pics if anyone is interested.

 

If you want to reset you ecu you can do two things:
1. pull the ecu and backup fuse. They are next to each other.
or
2. Disconnect the negative from the battery.

Before doing either one you should have your car warmed up first.
After doing either wait for about 2 minutes then put the fuse back or connect the battery.
Turn on the engine and let it idle for 5 minute don't push the gas or turn on anything. Then after 5 minute turn off the engine and you are ready to go.
Oh yeah remember to have your radio antitheft code with you before doing this because it will reset it. This should also get rid of your ABS light too.

 

I would do as LostGsr suggested, disconnect the negative battery cable. See if this makes the ABS light go off. Also make sure that all your fuses are "seated" properly. Let us know if this fixes the problem.

P.S. Glad to hear that you already did the DIY Icebox CAI. Did you have any trouble finding the materials for making the intake tubing? If you have some pictures, I would like to see them.

 

I reset the ECU as LostGsr suggested. I tried it both ways but still the ABS light is on. Could this be a sign of some other problem? I checked the brake fluid level and it seems fine. I also checked all the ABS fuses and they all were OK. Has anyone experienced their ABS light coming on after an ECU reset? Any suggestions on how to fix the problem are welcome.

RedTeg
PS- thanks for the help LostGsr and BSQ. I will try and take pics with my digi cam this weekend.


[Modified by RedTeg, 1:59 PM 7/26/2001]

 

Why dont you read the abs code? It is the same as the check engine plug that you short out but you have to tap the brakes a certain number of times. I didnt check this for a while, but everything is in the manual.

 

Ok ok ok let me see where should I start, when you installed the DIY Icebox intake did you by any chance (i know this is a stupid question) knock or unplugged any connector? I'm asking because as I understand it the DIY Icebox installation requires you to route your intake tube behind the signal light. That is in the proximity of your wheel sensor. But truthfully I doubt any of that happened so you need to pull the service connector out and jump the connector. If you don't know how go to this site first and read up on it. http://www.c-speedracing.com/faq/06.html Once you jumped your connector, turn on the ignition to the ON position but don't start the engine. I believe about two seconds after you do that the ABS light will start blinking. It should start with a blink or more, that is your Main code. Then a pause about one second and then the next set of blink. Remember both. Example: (2 second pause) blink blink (one second pause) blink. Then you have a Main code of 2 and the subcode of 1. Let me now what you got and I can look it up and see where is your trouble.

You know come to think about it, why don't you try this first instead of what I told you up there. Go to your fuse box and remove your ABS fuse I beleve its the 15 amp one. Wait one minute then put it back in and start your car. That should get rid of your ABS light. If that don't work do what I said up there, find out the code first, then remove the jump from the service connector and remove the ABS fuse for one minute then put the fuse back in but don't jump the connector and start your car. That should take the Abs light off.
However if you drive for a while and suddenly the ligth comes back on then you need to bring it in but I doubt it will come on. Goodluck

 

I know this is after the fact.. but for future reference.. the only fuse you need to pull is the backup fuse (7.5). Straight from the Helm's manual. Congrats on the Icebox btw!

-94GSRNewbie

 

In your post it sounds like you didn't put the fuse back in befor starting the car. . . I'm not sure that's right though.

Read Teken's advice in this thread: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=52277

Don't listed to these guys telling you to pull the batery cable, they obviously have not had to replace an ABS controller due to power spikes. . . .

 

Damn my ABS!

I started off by resetting the ECU. It did not get rid of the problem. I then tried to read the code by "jumping" the service connector. It didn't give me a code. I tried this over a few times to see if I was doing it wrong, but I still was unable to acquire any codes. So it looks like I have to take it in, unless anyone can come up with a solution.

On a brighter note, I took pictures of my DIY icebox intake with short ram AEM.

To make the AEM ram air fit I started by cutting off the mounting arm that holds the AEM to the engine bay. I took a hacksaw and cut it right off, I then sand it down to make it look better. http://y42.photos.yahoo.com/bc/asanborn82/vwp?.dir=/&.srch&.dnm=DSC00013.jpg&.view=t&.done=http%3a//y42.photos.yahoo.com/bc/asanborn82/lst%3f%26.dir=/%26.srch%26.view=t

I then modified the top of the stock air filter (the thing that covers the round opening of the air box and connects to the stock hose). I still need to find a gasket that will seal the rest of the opening off. You can see that here:
http://y42.photos.yahoo.com/bc/asanborn82/vwp?.dir=/&.dnm=DSC00014.jpg&.srch&.done=http%3a//y42.photos.yahoo.com/bc/asanborn82/vwp%3f.dir=/%26.dnm=DSC00013.jpg%26.srch

I then made the standard Icebox tube that takes air from behind the turn signal. I pretty much followed the "BSQ" method, but I used the top connecting piece of the stock resonator to attach onto the airbox.

edit: fixing pictures


[Modified by RedTeg, 6:41 PM 7/29/2001]


[Modified by RedTeg, 6:42 PM 7/29/2001]

 

your pics are in a restricted area.

Does your ice box look anything like this

 

Hope this works.

 

I'm not sure what you're talking about with this step... the stock air filter, like, the actual filter filter? Or the box around it?

Try to refresh my memory...

And, do you have anything supporting the Air Box and Filter? You cut the AEM support off.. it seems like a lot of weight and it might gradually pull itself out of the TB...

 

The "top of the stock air filter" is shown in the last picture. I have no better way of explaining it but to show you. I am sure if you go look at the stock filter you will understand.

As for support: the stock airbox is mounted to the car in the three original mounting points. The stock airbox is in the exact same position as a stock Integra would come, but I have a different tube running to the TB. The hose that goes from the airbox to the fender is supported mainly by zip-ties.

 

Ok.. I know where you're talking about.. but when you say 'modify' what exactly did you do? Did you have to cut some of it off to get the AEM pipe to fit in there? Does the Air Box fit around the AEM filter ok?

My memory is unclear about the mounting points. I remember the air box mounts where the AEM Support Arm mounts.. but what 2 other spots am I missing?

Thanks.

 

To modify it, I had to cut off the 45 degree elbow that attached to the stock air hose. If you look closely at the second picture, you should be able to tell where it was cut. I got lazy and haven't sanded it down all smooth yet. The AEM tube will not bend through the elbow, therefore it needs to be cut off.

If you are really interested in this mod, I would recommend you start by placing the filter in the box to see if it fits. We could have different size filters for some reason; just to be safe.

The bottom of the stock airbox has three little legs that have holes through them. If you look closely in the first picture you can actually see where I am missing one (lost the bolt!). It is right next to the radiator hose.

This is a very straight forward mod, it will be very easy once you have the hood open and all the parts in front of you.

I am happy to answer all your questions. Maybe more pictures would help....hmmm


[Modified by RedTeg, 8:33 AM 7/30/2001]

 

Ok, I understand how you cut off the part of the AirBox.

For the supports, there is one that supports the tube/filter/airbox. But the other two... are you just talking about the bolts that hold the top and bottom of the airbox together?

 

I am just talking about the stock mounting locations for the airbox. The bottom of the stock airbox has three arms that each attach to a mounting location. One of those mounting locations is what people use to support an aftermarket intake such as an AEM. The other two are located next to the headlight and radiator hose.

 

Hmm.. I'll have to go look at the parts I took off when I installed my Short Ram... I hope I have all those mounting brackets..

With the tube running behind the turn signal, is there enough pressure for the air to be effective? It seems with the turn signal in the way it would be a low pressure area... can you give any more info from the butt-dyno about how the car feels?

 

First off, I believe the ram air effect of any intake is minimal. But I do believe that taking colder, denser air from behind the turn signal will increase performance.

The intake has increased my low end torque compared to the high-end the AEM gave me. It also is less affected by heat. I can drive in hot weather and it doesn't seem like there is a decrease in performance after the heat soaks in. It also is not as noisy as the open element of the AEM.

 

Oh man, I know what you're talking about with the AEM getting hot... it's really noticable. However, I like the loudness of the AEM intake... but... we'll see.

I still have to buy parts from BSQ's guide..

Oh, If I can't find all the supports for the air box.. do you think 1 is good enough? Or two..?