Ok im going to attempt to make a long story short:

My motor blew (LS) i had one laying around that i bought from a friend out of his car. Its been sitting for two yrs. The motor only had 70k miles and ran like a champ considering it was an auto. We did a full compression chk and leak dwn test on the motor before it was pulled..Everything was great...2yrs ago..

Well I put the motor back in my car and hooked everything up, and it runs like absolute ****. Like there is no compression building up or something....Im so stressed that i can't even work on it anymore...

I plan on doing another compression chk on the motor, and i know it can't be that, i also had to replace the distributor since it went out as well. I guess coincidence...

If anyone has any suggestions on what else it could be...PLEASE PLEASE type away...

Oh and before anyone ask's the firing order is right...

 

well, was it stored properly? was oil left in it? 2 years is a looooooooooooooooong time, so oxidation could have built up hardcore in the motor. more info please.

 

what do you mean by stored correctly? Please explain. It sat in a garage with a tarp over it, pluges and wires and everything were still in the motor so nothing could get down in the head.

What else could of happened?

 

did you put new expendable fluids and parts in? like new wires, plugs, oil, coolant, etc....

 

Yes all fluids were changed, and plugs, wires and even a new distributor...

 

nobody? Comeon some help would be grand.....

 

if the engine sat there for that long i think rudt might be the problem. have you pulled the valve cover off to see it the valves were rusted and they could be sticking if the rudt is bad enough. or my other suggestion is the fuel injectors could be bad from sitting so long and you are not getting the proper fuel.

 

More information is needed. What are the years of the motors? Are you using the correct ecu? You say you replaced the dizzy, so did you Set the timming properly? Did you replace all corrodible parts such as the wires, plugs cap and rotor, oil etc. Are all wires hooked up and connected properly? Was the oil left in there for those 2 years? Check the compression and post the results.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rhdsirrex &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if the engine sat there for that long i think rudt might be the problem. have you pulled the valve cover off to see it the valves were rusted and they could be sticking if the rudt is bad enough. or my other suggestion is the fuel injectors could be bad from sitting so long and you are not getting the proper fuel.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes valve cover was pulled, all valves and etc. look good. Fuel injectors were pulled and replaced as well, with the one's out of my other motor.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by squee &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">More information is needed. What are the years of the motors? Are you using the correct ecu? You say you replaced the dizzy, so did you Set the timming properly? Did you replace all corrodible parts such as the wires, plugs cap and rotor, oil etc. Are all wires hooked up and connected properly? Was the oil left in there for those 2 years? Check the compression and post the results.</TD></TR></TABLE>

One is out of a 94 (my car) and the other is out of a 97. Yes timing is dead on and i've checked it a 1000 times (literaly)...Yes everything was replaced, and yes the oil was left in there for the 2years.

The motor turns over, if i hold the pedal all the way to the floor, but it runs hard like its not building compression...

What should the compression be? Around 190 or so? I really can't remeber

 

180 plus for the compresion and that is around the min. its the tps in good working order ccause you save you have to hold it all the way to the floor to get it running i would check that or grab the old one from the old motor.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IWANTAHB &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">One is out of a 94 (my car) and the other is out of a 97. Yes timing is dead on and i've checked it a 1000 times (literaly)...Yes everything was replaced, and yes the oil was left in there for the 2years.

The motor turns over, if i hold the pedal all the way to the floor, but it runs hard like its not building compression...

What should the compression be? Around 190 or so? I really can't remeber</TD></TR></TABLE> So, one is obd1 and the other is obd2. I don't know everything involved in converting to obd2, but at the least you will need to use the obd2 ecu.

 

you dont need to use the obd2 ecu just swap all the sensors off the old motor onto the new motor. that is a good point i didnt even think of that. but if that doesnt work then you are fucked unless you do a total engine bebuild because normally you should be able to use a obd2 in a obd1 because they are the same motor same everything but like i said try slaving in the old sensors back into this motor and hopefully you would be good. but the big thing is compression is it good or not?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rhdsirrex &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you dont need to use the obd2 ecu just swap all the sensors off the old motor onto the new motor. that is a good point i didnt even think of that. but if that doesnt work then you are fucked unless you do a total engine bebuild because normally you should be able to use a obd2 in a obd1 because they are the same motor same everything but like i said try slaving in the old sensors back into this motor and hopefully you would be good. but the big thing is compression is it good or not?</TD></TR></TABLE> I am pretty sure that the pin layout is different between obd1 and obd2, which is why you need a conversion harness when changing from obd2 to obd1. So, you will need to use the ecu to match, or a conversion harness. I don't think swapping the sensors is needed, but I've never converted obd's so I'm unsure. Do a search, I'm sure its been covered many times.

 

if you leave everything as is from when the old motor was pulled all you would need to do is change the sensors no harnes conv. needed that way same motor just change the sensors out for the old ones

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rhdsirrex &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you leave everything as is from when the old motor was pulled all you would need to do is change the sensors no harnes conv. needed that way same motor just change the sensors out for the old ones</TD></TR></TABLE> The sensors are different between obd2 and obd1? What about just using the original wire harness, would that work?

 

to make this easier and sorry for the late reply, but the new motor came out of a 94 Integra as well. I don't have any idea on why i posted the 97 my bad.

I honestly think the timing is way off, because he had to rotate the distributor all the way forward and crank on it for a few seconds and then it finally turn over but run like absolute crap...

What do you think?

 

well if your timing was as way off as you say it was then i am guessing you bent some valves from the sounds of it. i would get a compression tester and check it should be at about 180psi + and if it shows that you have way less comp. get a leak down tester and hook it up to see where the compression is going. check the intake for air leakage and exhaust and remove the radiator cap to see if you bubbles and it this isnt your problem then i dont know what else it could be. check this and post your results

 

The timing was dead on, the firing order was crossed (im an idiot) and the IAC was going bad...So needless to say the car is running and running like a champ...Thank god it wasn't my motor...