I have been running the 6al ignition, blaster coil, and cap for the past three years now. A while back my tach started floating around and hesitating until it finally wouldn't run. I replaced the ignitor and everything was fine. This happened to me about a year after the first time also. Replacing the ignitor fixed it again.

This time however, my tach needle was floating, and I recently just bought a new one and put it in, but the needle is still just floating around. This was with a brand new ignitor. I also ended up replacing the cap and rotor.

My question is, what else could be causing this? What part of the msd setup is burning up the ignitors? Is there anything I can do to modify it and still retain the 6al without going through ignitors?

Thanks

 

Weird.. did you check all the wiring connections?

 

yeah, everything seems to be fine.

 

my question is what are you using to
insulate your cables that run out of the distributor?

 

what wires? the ones to the coil? any connections were put together using the male/female connectors that come with the msd. Any exposed wire or pat of the connectors was wrapped with electrical tape.

Out of the wires going into the distributor, which should I more closely inspect or which wire would be the one to cause the tach floating?

 

Same thing hapened to me on my 96 B18C-R turns out to be the MSD box. I say go back to stock unless your boosted.

I went back to stock and everything is fine

I shipped my MSD box back to MSD had to pay $50.00 for them to fix it without warranty. Then sold it on ebay and bought some brakes.

 

well black tape is not a good insulator in this situation
so its best to go to radio shack and buy heat shrink
and use instead.
using black tape was causing the same problems not
only that try to use a wire tie to hold wires down
inside the distributor that will solve your problem..
also make sure that the post on the coil itself are isolated also.

 

**** it. I'm just going back to stock. That ignition did worse for me than good.

I have a brand new msd cap on there for 3k miles and I changed the rotor at the same time. Is it ok to use the 3k old rotor with a new oem cap?

Is it better to stick with the oem cap vs an aftermarket cap from kragen or napa?

thanks.

 

i'll buy the MSD 6al and cap from u if it stil in good working condition...lmk

 

There wasn't enough space where the pictures were hosted for me to put bigger pictures, so just email me for them.

allmotormonstor@hotmail.com

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 96b18c &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">**** it. I'm just going back to stock. That ignition did worse for me than good.

I have a brand new msd cap on there for 3k miles and I changed the rotor at the same time. Is it ok to use the 3k old rotor with a new oem cap?

Is it better to stick with the oem cap vs an aftermarket cap from kragen or napa?

thanks.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I would not get MSD unless you're boosted, and I recommend OEM Honda than Kragen etc.....