ok I know alot of people have sais that LSVTEC are not reliable but if built right could do alot of damage on the street and put some bad *** HP numbers on the dyno. i have a 95 4 door gs-r, but i just did a LSVTEC is pretty much stock, all i have done so far is a aem fuel filter, cold air intake, walboro fuel pump, and AEM cam gears, DC 4-1 headers and 2 1/4 pipinng with a after market exhaust. I want my motor to last, I just moved to a town called Gainesville here in florida and dont have no clue what else should I do for my motor not to blow. my father does rotaries motors but he is 5 hours away from me, so I need some help with what I should buy so I could put some good numbers out and my motor would last, I just got a APEXI vtec controller that am trying to get this guy called steve mason to hook up, he is masetuning.com, I heard they guy is sick *** **** hooking and tuning, help me out, thank you

 

the only thing that determines reliablilty for an ls vtec, or other highbrids, or any built motor for that matter, is how it was put together... if u have a stock bottom end DO NOT REV much higher, if higher at all then the stock redline! YES, b16's gsr's and itr's rev high, but just cuz the head can rev high doesnt mean the bottom end will

reliability aids- ARP headbolts are great security... as well as ARP rodbolts being as though the rodbolts are **** at high RPMS... im a firm beliver that if lsvtecs are bult well they are just as reliable as any other motor.. dooo nooottt overr revvvvvvv--

 

Wow, yea... I think I get that first one? lol.

I agree with tegsallgood, the LS Rod/stroke has always been the issue with LS/Vtec... if you get a chance to look at a built LS/VTEC piston after they've been driven, take a look... it's not BAD, but it's definitely not the best thing you'll ever see... It makes little wear marks just slightly smaller than a dime in size around the middle of the skirt where the rod is pushing the piston against the sidewall at the bottom of the stroke...

Anyhow, if you want to make it reliable just don't rev it very high, and don't race it. Racing goes up, reliability goes down.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IH8IDI0TS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">don't race it. </TD></TR></TABLE>


why do it if ur not goanna race it

 

well I have not over rev it, I only kind of race it for a quick 10 secong with aother GS-R and i took that GS-R by like a car from a red light but I jump of the gas real quick because I dont want to blow my motor, just today I install a p28 ecu with a skunk2 program that it allows me to rev to 8.9 but I dont want to take the chance. I'am running a gs-r transmission too. I want to built my bottom end what kind of pistons should I put. people are telling me to use high compression pistons but I dont have a lot of moeny I just dont want my motor to go to hell you know, thank you for the help

 

if youre planning to stay all motor id say a good cost efficient way to make high compression and also increase reliability is use shotpeened ls rods with itr pistons and ARP rod bolts

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tegsallgood &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if youre planning to stay all motor id say a good cost efficient way to make high compression and also increase reliability is use shotpeened ls rods with itr pistons and ARP rod bolts</TD></TR></TABLE>

he's right on...i mean hey u want all that reliability then u might not want to go to super high compression...just keep compression around 10.2:1 just use ur regular B16 pistons...Like he said ARP!! get ARP rod bolts and head studs... also even better go to honda and buy some new main bearings and rod bearings and should be good from there...theres no point in going to 8900 if your cams dont produce anything up there...look with what u have there is no reson to go past 8k u'll probably lose power after that with the stock cams...8K member that...only after u get those arp bolts and bearings and trust me u'll be fine..its a myth about lsvtecs, the only reason they blow up cause some idiot throws a head on there and revs the **** out of it...its like a stroker motor it doesnt matter just do it right...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tRex99 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

he's right on...i mean hey u want all that reliability then u might not want to go to super high compression...just keep compression around 10.2:1 just use ur regular B16 pistons...Like he said ARP!! get ARP rod bolts and head studs... also even better go to honda and buy some new main bearings and rod bearings and should be good from there...theres no point in going to 8900 if your cams dont produce anything up there...look with what u have there is no reson to go past 8k u'll probably lose power after that with the stock cams...8K member that...only after u get those arp bolts and bearings and trust me u'll be fine..its a myth about lsvtecs, the only reason they blow up cause some idiot throws a head on there and revs the **** out of it...its like a stroker motor it doesnt matter just do it right...</TD></TR></TABLE>
You can have highcompression, just have race gas Rev where you make power, if you make power only to 8900 , lets say dont go any higher inless you want to hear KaBooM!

 

It's simple.......... Replace EVERY thing that isn't vtec- pistons, cams, pumps, fuel..........etc. Into vtec. Then send the head to a shop to line everything up. Use new gaskets, seals and hoses. The only thing you should use from the ls bottom is the block it self, nothing else. When you're done, dyno tune it. Make sure while you're braking in the engine, to bolt and tie everything down twice between brake in. It will be just as reliable as any other motor.

Come on people........if your a real tuner you should know when you change one thing, you change another part to make it work. I'm tired of hearing about the whole "ls/vtec is unreliable" issue. I bet anyone who has had an ls/vtec that blown the engine up, was due to carelessness of set up and maintence. Just because it's vtec doesn't mean to high rev all the time. Just like any SI, GSR, SI-R, and Type-R, it will brake or something has to give, if you only know how to change gears at 8500k rpms.