I Spun a bearing in my block and i was wondering how hard is it to reaplce the bearing??

 

Its not something that you can do, you gotta pull the motor and send the block and crank out to be machined..... while you are there it is best to have the cylinders re-honed and put new pistons in, all new bearings, water pump, oil pump etc. Its about a $1500 dollar hit

 

ouch!!!

 

Yea i bet ill just buy a new block for less

who would pay that much for a stock block to be reapired and ect you can get like a built bottom for that....or if not somthing good thanks tho

 

wait a minute.

how bad is it???

did u catch them early???

if so u can easily get away with changing them in the car. but i would go to a std. size and change the rod and mains all together flush the pan clean the sump and replace the oil pump. then flush the motor with cheap oil

 

yea got towed homw the minute it starte the tick
so i think i can get away with just a new bearing huh if it hasnt been ridin on

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by akstunt600 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wait a minute.

how bad is it???

did u catch them early???

if so u can easily get away with changing them in the car. but i would go to a std. size and change the rod and mains all together flush the pan clean the sump and replace the oil pump. then flush the motor with cheap oil</TD></TR></TABLE>

Build it up, Build it up..... I cant see someone recommending just replacing a bearing w/o machine work and expect the "patch" to last.

 

do not just replace the bearing. You have to have the crank polished or ground. If you dont do that it will just fail quickly. Depending on what condition your motor is in you dont have to completely rebuild it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dahoopdahup &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do not just replace the bearing. You have to have the crank polished or ground. If you dont do that it will just fail quickly. Depending on what condition your motor is in you dont have to completely rebuild it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thank you..... just replacing one bearing like someone above said is just like using a bandaid with bad adhesive, its gonna fall apart. But even though the motor does not need to be rebuilt, why not let the car sit for a month or two and bring up the funds to build the motor for a nice High Comp..... i know i would

 

wow, smart man how bad was the knock?? light tick or was it noticnle in the car???

in any case u did the right thing, many people will drive it untill ther crank is toast, and is no longer even machinable

the best way to find out the severity unfortunately is pull the pan and look at a couple of the main and rod caps.

BTW GSR-T- i said replace the rods and mains as in all of them, and that it depends entirely on the severity of the rod knock,

i have done this on a 94 supra twin turbo with light knocking, the cause was improper clearance selection for each journal, so i examined the crank and saw no visible signs of heat or stress on the crank or the rods, and i proceeded to replace the rod and mains one at a time with new std. clearance all the way across for each journal. a couple of bearings were showing a light copper coloration. the guy dave is still in the millitary and is stationed in fl. he picked the car up in pa and drove it back hours after i finished. he is a very happy and greatfull customer. he called our shop about 2 weeks ago and he said its still running great!

the key is how bad is damaged!!!!

this is not a short term fix, it will last





Modified by akstunt600 at 3:14 PM 6/18/2006

 

ohh, btw 1500 bux is alil over priced for a rebuild, i can do a full rebuild cheaper than that, not just the bottom end

pulling, reinstall, and rebuild- 600
piston rings- 90
head gasket-80
all bearings- 160
machine shop work balance/polish crank-250
timing belt and water pump- 120