Spun Bearing
05-11-2004, 11:29 AM
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Spun Bearing
Well over the weekend i spun a bearing in my gsr 
Now i'm debating on rebuilding the bottom end or just junking it and getting a new one. What would be my best bet to go with. I've been told that once u spin a bearing it's hard to get the correct bearing for that block because each block has their own code of what size bearing goes in. Is that true?
If anyone can help me out it'd be greatly appreciated.
thanks, john
Now i'm debating on rebuilding the bottom end or just junking it and getting a new one. What would be my best bet to go with. I've been told that once u spin a bearing it's hard to get the correct bearing for that block because each block has their own code of what size bearing goes in. Is that true?
If anyone can help me out it'd be greatly appreciated.
thanks, john
05-11-2004, 11:52 AM
#4
Solbros Owns Me
Re: Spun Bearing (nY's FiNeSt)
sucky....
well, you will need to get the crank polished, if not grinded, and get new bearings. Just pick what oil clearance you want and plastigauge it to find the clearance. Say you go .010 over stock on the rods, then tell that to Honda...whatever color that is. You could run a bigger clearance for less friction, but that's all up to you or the builder.
Probably damaged the rod also, so that will need to be recon'd as well.
for crank work and bearings, if you assemble yourself, coud be donefor under 300
well, you will need to get the crank polished, if not grinded, and get new bearings. Just pick what oil clearance you want and plastigauge it to find the clearance. Say you go .010 over stock on the rods, then tell that to Honda...whatever color that is. You could run a bigger clearance for less friction, but that's all up to you or the builder.
Probably damaged the rod also, so that will need to be recon'd as well.
for crank work and bearings, if you assemble yourself, coud be donefor under 300
05-11-2004, 11:53 AM
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Re: Spun Bearing (Emerika)
i see, how much does a job like that run you? i have a buddy that could do the work for me.
i was also just thinking of throwing in ctr pistons and rods if i had to change the rods
bump up the compression
i was also just thinking of throwing in ctr pistons and rods if i had to change the rods
bump up the compression
05-11-2004, 11:58 AM
#6
Solbros Owns Me
Re: Spun Bearing (nY's FiNeSt)
crank grind/polish is usually about 60 bucks, bearings my cost is cheap(work for Honda) and labor is free 
and find a good machnist to press out the old wrist pins if you want to keep your old pistons in good shape
and find a good machnist to press out the old wrist pins if you want to keep your old pistons in good shape
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05-14-2004, 03:12 PM
#10
Former Moderator
Re: Spun Bearing (nY's FiNeSt)
Honestly I'm not a fan of having a cank turned and running oversized bearings.
Example?
My shop just had to eat an entire H22A engine for a customer because we decided to get a crank turned and polished and we installed it into his H22A engine that we swapped in a few years ago.
His crank was fucked up on the end where the crank pulley bolt went in, so we sent the crank off to be fixed and it could not be fixed. The crank shop instead gave us another crank that had been welded up and turned and they provided the "correct sized" bearings too.
Well that was in January and the ******* crank started moving side to side because the crankwork wasn't fantasic. Seems as though the thrust washer moved and we got end play on the crank.
Now we're just replacing the entire engine because of a bad decision with getting a worked crank to fix a problem - this costs the customer ZERO dollars.
I wouldn't take my chances with a worked crank. It's cheaper, but IMO it's more like a band-aid and a crapshoot.
Example?
My shop just had to eat an entire H22A engine for a customer because we decided to get a crank turned and polished and we installed it into his H22A engine that we swapped in a few years ago.
His crank was fucked up on the end where the crank pulley bolt went in, so we sent the crank off to be fixed and it could not be fixed. The crank shop instead gave us another crank that had been welded up and turned and they provided the "correct sized" bearings too.
Well that was in January and the ******* crank started moving side to side because the crankwork wasn't fantasic. Seems as though the thrust washer moved and we got end play on the crank.
Now we're just replacing the entire engine because of a bad decision with getting a worked crank to fix a problem - this costs the customer ZERO dollars.
I wouldn't take my chances with a worked crank. It's cheaper, but IMO it's more like a band-aid and a crapshoot.
05-14-2004, 03:22 PM
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Re: Spun Bearing (B18C5-EH2)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C5-EH2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I wouldn't take my chances with a worked crank. It's cheaper, but IMO it's more like a band-aid and a crapshoot.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Hmm...good point
Hmm...good point
05-18-2004, 05:03 PM
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Re: Spun Bearing (nY's FiNeSt)
There is nothing wrong with running a crank that has been ground. You can specify the clearance you want usually within .0001-.0002" depending on how good the crank grinder is. Using a welded crank is something entirely different that I would never do.
05-18-2004, 05:14 PM
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Re: Spun Bearing (nY's FiNeSt)
I ran into the same prob with my d series, it seemed to be cheaper to find a new complete bottom end then to replace everything.
05-19-2004, 12:04 AM
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Re: Spun Bearing (skuby_do)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by skuby_do »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I ran into the same prob with my d series, it seemed to be cheaper to find a new complete bottom end then to replace everything. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Dude what do you have to replace? The bearings and rings..that's it. It's cheap, it will work and the bottom end will be fresh. Why would you rather buy a whole new bottom end that you don't even know the condition of.....it just doesn't make any sense.
Dude what do you have to replace? The bearings and rings..that's it. It's cheap, it will work and the bottom end will be fresh. Why would you rather buy a whole new bottom end that you don't even know the condition of.....it just doesn't make any sense.
05-27-2004, 11:38 AM
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Re: Spun Bearing (30psiCiv)
just put a rebuilt head on my bottom, took it out for a spin, opened vtec a couple times, only brought it up to like 7500.
went to turn around to go back to the shop we were doin it at and you heard a loud nasty banging from the bay. sounded like a rod knock, took the motor out, head off, then cranked the block with a 3/8ths ratchet and there was a sound comming from cylinder 1, sure enough it was what we assumed it was
went to turn around to go back to the shop we were doin it at and you heard a loud nasty banging from the bay. sounded like a rod knock, took the motor out, head off, then cranked the block with a 3/8ths ratchet and there was a sound comming from cylinder 1, sure enough it was what we assumed it was
05-27-2004, 01:13 PM
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Re: Spun Bearing (B18C5-EH2)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C5-EH2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Honestly I'm not a fan of having a cank turned and running oversized bearings.
Well that was in January and the ******* crank started moving side to side because the crankwork wasn't fantasic. Seems as though the thrust washer moved and we got end play on the crank.
Now we're just replacing the entire engine because of a bad decision with getting a worked crank to fix a problem - this costs the customer ZERO dollars.
I wouldn't take my chances with a worked crank. It's cheaper, but IMO it's more like a band-aid and a crapshoot.</TD></TR></TABLE>
this crank walk problem is not a problem due to bad crank polishing, who ever put the motor together put the thrust bearing in wrong. this happend to 3 of my customers in 3 different motors. when the blocks were put together by somebody else the second time around we fixed the problem.
when using a worked crank i never use honda bearings as they dont come in sizes but colors. i have always used acl bearings in what ever size i machined the crank and i have never had problems. i ran my turbo d motor to 8200rpms on 10lbs hard as hell for about 6months and now i have a zc piston d16z6 turning 8500 and i have not had any problems in 3500miles
Well that was in January and the ******* crank started moving side to side because the crankwork wasn't fantasic. Seems as though the thrust washer moved and we got end play on the crank.
Now we're just replacing the entire engine because of a bad decision with getting a worked crank to fix a problem - this costs the customer ZERO dollars.
I wouldn't take my chances with a worked crank. It's cheaper, but IMO it's more like a band-aid and a crapshoot.</TD></TR></TABLE>
this crank walk problem is not a problem due to bad crank polishing, who ever put the motor together put the thrust bearing in wrong. this happend to 3 of my customers in 3 different motors. when the blocks were put together by somebody else the second time around we fixed the problem.
when using a worked crank i never use honda bearings as they dont come in sizes but colors. i have always used acl bearings in what ever size i machined the crank and i have never had problems. i ran my turbo d motor to 8200rpms on 10lbs hard as hell for about 6months and now i have a zc piston d16z6 turning 8500 and i have not had any problems in 3500miles
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