Code 3 help
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What do I do if I get 3 MAP - manifold absolute pressure sensor , it blinks 3 times stops and repeats. I chked my sensors it seems good?ANything I should do>?
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No missing link, didnt really chk the sensors, anything to do with the vafc pressure wire?? I found out that the guy who hooked up my vafc didnt have the pressure wire connected so I connected it(that was a while ago)
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Turbos not on right now, got another engine being built in cali, I dont plan on running a missing link when the turbo goes bak in. Just vafc, pump, injectors??
Now its stock with i/h/e, msds
Now its stock with i/h/e, msds
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you can either a: - unhook your battery for a while(ive heard 5-10 mins) or b: the right way per helms take out the 7.5 fuse in the under the hood for 10-15 sec. - number 32 - if you still have the fuse placement sticker on your cover - the radio should turn off as well if you pull the right one - just make sure if you still have the stock radio that you have the code
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DRAG lll INTEGRA »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">u do it with the vtec controller.. ur manual should tell u</TD></TR></TABLE>you can reset the ecu w/ a vafc?
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Well I reset the ecu and still throws code, and today when I red lined 1st and went to redline 2nd the chk engine light came on and I lost throttle response. Any ideas on what I should change?
I have this same problem. I even replaced the map sensor and it still does it. Runs real rich. Still looking into this myself. ;_;
Modified by polyphony_digital at 3:28 PM 6/7/2004
Modified by polyphony_digital at 3:28 PM 6/7/2004
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Ok , my problem seems to come on intermitent cause it only comes on when you drive the car for a while then when it comes on the car get sluggish. Helms manual says interminent problem chk wiring, well I resoldered everyting so I skip that part and check the voltages instead. Yellow/White & Chassis Ground-5 Volts
Yellow/White & Grn/White-4.98 Volts, White/Yello & Grn/White-.049 Volts
Any ideas what to do, should I just change the map sensor?
This has been a problem since I got the car
Yellow/White & Grn/White-4.98 Volts, White/Yello & Grn/White-.049 Volts
Any ideas what to do, should I just change the map sensor?
This has been a problem since I got the car
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Just bought a 2000 civic map sensor the local shop charged me 40.00
I gotta c if it works. It works alright no more codes yeeeeha
Modified by TurboTeG4 at 5:00 AM 6/20/2004
I gotta c if it works. It works alright no more codes yeeeeha
Modified by TurboTeG4 at 5:00 AM 6/20/2004
It would be a wise investment to get a missing link also(probably the easiest way and it's reliable). Running check valves to your map sensor won't stop it from blowing the diaphragm out or getting whach readings.
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**** me not, I got a code 3 again today
It ran good the last time, I took it for some good test runs on the mountain. But today I went back up there and did a wot vafc at 69%throttle and the engine just bogged all of a sudden and you can smell the exhaust change also.
I already changed the sensors, does the sensor wires go straight to the ecu? Meaning that I could possibly run new wires straight to the ecu and see what happens.
It ran good the last time, I took it for some good test runs on the mountain. But today I went back up there and did a wot vafc at 69%throttle and the engine just bogged all of a sudden and you can smell the exhaust change also. I already changed the sensors, does the sensor wires go straight to the ecu? Meaning that I could possibly run new wires straight to the ecu and see what happens.
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