ok i have an obd1 gsr swaped into my ls and have a code 22 (vtec pressure switch) my first thought was; problem was in the wiring, but checked wiring from switch connectors to ecu and have continuity and also have continuity to ground, so i seem to be good there. second; oil level was good (actualy about a quart high) but dirty, so i changed oil, filter and removed vtec solenoid and it was as clean as it was when i instaled it (forgot to mention solenoid was new from honda when i did the swap, i think i bought the switch at the same time but cant remeber).third thing; i found a shallow indentation in the oil pan where the sump pick up is, now i havent dropped the pan to check it but the engine isnt(or doesnt seem to be) starved of oil so i know its picking up some oil just dont know if its keeping the pressure to low for vtec to engauge. i have an oil line connected from the oil port on the head right in front of the vtec solenoid to a oil pressure gauge, which should read some pressure when vtec is engaged, correct? i see oil in this line but no pressure on the gauge, so uh, i dont know. fourth and final thought is that every time i reset the ecu (pull back up fuse and unhook batt.) when i restart the car it throws the code right away which i think means that the ecu is detecting a problem with the switch or wiring to the switch (but i checked the wiring as stated before) so doesnt this point to the switch as being the problem?

so my current thinking is the problem is probably the switch. i was told that there is a way to test the switch with air pressure somehow but i have looked on in.honda but can not find the procedure does anyone know how to either test the switch in the car or bench test it? also i have an AEM EMS if anyone knows how to test with it.

 

anybody have any ideas this seems to be a common cel but has any one had any other problems other than low oil or a clogged solenoid????

 

U should be able to test the switch by giving it 12V directly from the battery. U should hear a loud click. U might also wanna try a different ecu, sounds kinda odd that it's coming on right when u start ur car up.

 

are you sure its 12v i dont want to fry it if its a 5v switch. but how does the switch work? does it get a voltage signal from the ecu and then allows oil pressure to flow to the solenoid, or does it read oil pressure and then send a signal to the ecu to allow the solenoid to flow oil to the vtec rockers.
i used to know this but now that i work at infiniti i cant rember **** about vtec

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JasonST &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">U should be able to test the switch by giving it 12V directly from the battery. U should hear a loud click. U might also wanna try a different ecu, sounds kinda odd that it's coming on right when u start ur car up.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That would test the solenoid, not the switch. You can test te switch with air pressure. Connect a multimeter and look for a continuity change.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dogginator &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

That would test the solenoid, not the switch. You can test the switch with air pressure. Connect a multimeter and look for a continuity change.</TD></TR></TABLE>

this is what i thought but what/where do i connect air pressure and how much pressure needs to be applied before the switch will close? and im just looking for continuity right, theres no variable voltage resistance accros the switch right?

 

bump

 

How did you check for continuity from the switches to the ecu? Do you have a test harness?

I have the same error code 22. Swapped in used vtec solenoid (no idea if that's even working). VTEC tries to engage but gives a slight jerk still... then the CEL lights up.

I do have continuity between the BLK terminal and body ground but I don't have a test harness to go any further.

In my case, I still don't know if it's the VTEC Pressure Switch or VTEC Solenoid Valve, or even wiring....I freakin need a test harness.

In your case, do a compression test but you already have that in mind.

 

Hello...How are you? How exactly do you verify if the VTEC Pressure Switch and VTEC Solenoid Valve is working (in detail)?


Thanks,
JT

 

u will just have to fab something up to connect air press to the switch, anything above 50-55 psi will close the switch.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thewhopper858 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How did you check for continuity from the switches to the ecu? Do you have a test harness?</TD></TR></TABLE>

you do it the same way you did for the ground you just unplug the harness from the ecu and check between the correct pin and the connector for the switch. you dont need a test harness.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thewhopper858 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">In my case, I still don't know if it's the VTEC Pressure Switch or VTEC Solenoid Valve, or even wiring....I freakin need a test harness.</TD></TR></TABLE>

code 22 is for the pressure switch the solenoid is a code 23 i think but dont quote me on that. and what is a "test harness" for? you can check and test on the wiring in the car already.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thewhopper858 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">In your case, do a compression test but you already have that in mind.</TD></TR></TABLE>

what does a compression test have to do with vtec operation???

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spoon_ek9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">u will just have to fab something up to connect air press to the switch, anything above 50-55 psi will close the switch.</TD></TR></TABLE>

thats kinda what i figured/heard but have you or anyone made a tool for this or know if honda or anyone sells one?

if i hose clamp a fuel hose to the switch threads and an air fitting to the other end of the hose. that should work shouldnt it?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by integrawhat &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

thats kinda what i figured/heard but have you or anyone made a tool for this or know if honda or anyone sells one?

if i hose clamp a fuel hose to the switch threads and an air fitting to the other end of the hose. that should work shouldnt it?</TD></TR></TABLE>

prolly no one make or sell those adapter.
if it is all clamp down good and no leak, i see no problem with it

 

I'm not sure that it helps to tell you that I have the same problem or not, but I'm in columbus having the same issue. I have very low power and what seems to be a fuel cut at 4400. Occasianally I can get it up past that, but then it seems to cut where the crossover should be. I have swapped the vtec switch and solenoid, fuel pump and filter. i also swapped in my friend's ecu and it still picked up the code. I've also run a compression test which came back 230. 230. 230, 220, so that doesn't lead me to believe anything is wrong internally. I'm stumped and frustrated so any input is appreciated.

 

You've seem to have ruled out a lot of possibilities...wouldn't hurt to do a quick compression test. (referring to integrawhat)


Modified by thewhopper858 at 1:22 PM 4/16/2007

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thewhopper858 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You've seem to have ruled out a lot of possibilities...wouldn't hurt to do a quick compression test. (referring to integrawhat)


Modified by thewhopper858 at 1:22 PM 4/16/2007</TD></TR></TABLE>

can you please explain to me why a compression test has anything to do with vtec?!?!?!?

and what other possibilities are you refering to?


Modified by integrawhat at 1:50 PM 4/16/2007

 

ok so i tested the switch the way i described above^^ and with no pressure on the switch i had continuity, and when i got to 35 psi the switch opened?

now i was under the impression that the switch should be open at rest (no pressure) and close at around 50-55 psi, which was also stated above, but this is kinda the opposite with the pressures being a little different (low), but i was thinking that if the switch was bad that it just stuck open not reversed its working order?

can someone confirm these test results and pressures before i go buy a new switch tomorrow please?

p.s. my dumb *** just found out that i do have oil pressure up to the switch. i forgot i pulled the switch out to test it after all of 3 minutes and started it up to back into my garage and left a pretty good trail of oil on the ground (and my transmission)


Modified by integrawhat at 3:18 PM 4/16/2007

 

bump for an answer before i go buy a new switch tomorrow

 

ok well i didnt get any contradicting or confirming responses so i went ahead and ordered the switch, which was $95 after my discount. so i guess ill let ya guys know how it turns out if any one is interested?!