I put a block guard in my gsr by myself. i hammered it in. some ppl say they make your sleeves egg shaped is this true?..i would say its 1/2 inch under the surface and pretty much even all aound but not exactly even.. what do u guys think?

 

Havnt heard of them chaning the shape of sleeves only that they make the car run hotter.

If your not sure about how its been installed take some pics and post it up so people can check it for you.

 

OK i have installed my block guard.its approx. 3/4 inch under the surface.. i put a piston in every cyl. it doesnt seem to be warped. ppl say itll make it warped (egg Shaped). my question is if this were to happen, would it have already happened or will it happen with use of the motor?

 

block guards help to prevent the deck being warped not the cylinder. the liners walk and get out of true causing headgasket leakage. i'm slightly worried about this motor if you installed a part you don't understand. am i right here?

 

Yep, you just ruined your cylinders. The proper way to install a block guard is to have it trimmed to shape, spot welded in, and have the block resurfaced and the bore checked. It may look even but can you eyeball thousandths of an inch? I'll bet a measurement with proper tools will reveal cylinders all distorted to hell.

You need to pull that block guard out and have your cylinders rebored. If you plan on reinstalling the block guard (which I don't recommend you do), do it correctly.

 

I've never seen a block guard intalled 3/4" below the deck. Did you install it yourself, or did a shop do the work? If a shop did the install, they should have decked the block and checked for out of round cylinders.

 

yes i installed it my self and my sleeves have been bored and honed..block is re-surfaced...will the blockgaurd cause the motor to overheat??

 

The guard should have proper holes for cooling, did you install the guard before of after the block was honed etc? What brand is it? You usually want to install it before so the shop can check for the roundness of the cylinder walls.

 

thats the thing i installed it after the machine work on the block. but theres no sign of seizure or anythihng in the crank its very obvious that walls are still a perfect round bore.

 

you do not install a block guard without having it properly machined for a good fit. the guard will/did cause deformation of the cylinder walls. basically it puts the cylinder walls under constant tension and after enough heat cycles, they will crack.

 

The best block guard is no block guard IMO

 

I will take it to the machine shop today should I have them properly do it or just take it out

 

if its done properly, it wont hurt. it will limit cooling but i dont think it would be enough to actually hurt anything. a well known shop in my area uses them and their motors make great power on boost.

 

Correct. have a shop do it for you. My buddy did what the T/S did and effed up his block.

 

Word up, specially on an all motor build. I don't see any need for a block guard.

 

Just take it to your machine shop, ask their opinion and have them check out the tolerances and what not, they may recommend other stuff so just ask them they are the professionals.

 

sell it...unnecessary

 

i was just about to order a block guard but now im having second thoughts.... I have a d16z6 that i plan on putten a 60-1 or a 30r on and my main concern was the open deck and it blowing apart. i thought putten a block guard and haveing it sealved was a good idea but am i worng? also i pplan on running like 20 25 psi.

 

20-25psi on a 60-1 or 30r is stupid on a stock block z6. seriously thats even alot for a sleeved motor. you need to do more research of what your talking about. lol you made my day with that post.

if your looking for teh CraZy hp, SLEEVE YOUR MOTHER F*CK'N BLOCK!

No reason to ever use a block guard no matter the situation.

PS: threads about block guards blow...

 

ok well since ur so smart about sleeving, block guarding, and boosting could u share some of ur info to help out people like the site was made for.

what kinds of number can a d16z6 hold?...what kinda of boost am i looken at?...y's an 30r too big?....all iwas asking for is a lil help but i guess thats to much for u

 

First off, I am no expert.

That said, the 30r is too big, because the engine won't push enough air to spool it up at any reasonable RPM. You'll need the engine to be capable of revving much much higher than the original redline to support such a turbo.

Don't consider bosst pressure when thinking about what an engine can support. PSI doesn't matter, at all. How much power, and if the tune is correct, are what determine if the engine can hold together.

Again, no expert, but a d16z6 should be fine to 250 or so whp. Much beyond that, and its time to build the block.

Last thing, this is in the Integra forum. Why ask a question about a d16 in here? You'd have much better luck in the forced induction forum.

 

ok 1st off thanks for not being a di*k now and now my ? is. i plan on doing the whole block cause my buddy owns a engine rebuilding shop. So what would u do turbo wise to the d16z6 . I have a dd so this would be more or a street weekend car what would be a good turbo and if u could give me some options. aslo sorry for being in the wrong section. ty -john-

 

hey maz69 heres my build im doin, fully built d16a6 turbo. i'll be happy to answer any ?'s you may have....im still debating on the block guard... : D

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-crx-ef-civic-1988-1991-3/first-d16-build-2656340/