I have tried everything I can possibly think of to remove my driver side axle nut. Have not even tried the passenger side yet. I've broke 2 standard 1\2 drive ratchets, and 2 1\2 inch breaker bars. I have an 8 ft. cheater pipe thats responsible for that. Lucky its craftsman! I've got a hand impact tool, and an electric impact wrench, no luck with either. I've soaked it in PB blaster for 4 days now, and used a propane torch.

I had the same problem when I built my motor, so I just took the joints apart.

Do you guys think an Air Compressor & Impact will do the trick? Any other suggestions on getting this stubborn nut off?

I can't get any of the local shops to bust the nut of for me, they are saying it must be torqued to spec before I leave. I'm almost ready to cut the axle's off & replace them.

 

I don't mean to bump this so quick but is there any easy way to cut the bolt off without screwing up the threads on the axle?

 

Are you near austin? I'll get on it with my BMF'r impact if so...

 

I'm in New Braunfels, but my registration is expired so I can't really take the Teg anywhere far. Car has been a project for the last year, and I moved from PA in the middle of it so I still need to get TX Tags, Inspection, etc.

I really appreciate the offer though!

Maybe I could separate them at the joints and bring the whole damn assembly to you.

 

If you decide to do that, my shop is in cedar park. Just PM me. Might even be able to use my hydraulic press to get the axle head out of the hub - no promises though!

 

depending on what kind of rims you have, if u can access the nut through the rim (where the center cap would be) then put the wheel back on drop the car down, take a little pressure off with a jack and then use a giant breaker bar and it'll come right off.

 

A good strong impact wrench backed by plenty of airflow (at least 6 CFM @ 90 psi) should make quick work of that nut. It's never failed me.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BLacK FirE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">depending on what kind of rims you have, if u can access the nut through the rim (where the center cap would be) then put the wheel back on drop the car down, take a little pressure off with a jack and then use a giant breaker bar and it'll come right off.</TD></TR></TABLE>

my friends do this all the time. no axle nut has managed to stay on.

 

Ive had one axle nut that was on from hell. 2 shops tryed to break it loose with no luck. 1 ratchet broken, extension broken, big braker bar with 8foot pipe snaped in half. There was on way this nut was coming off at all.

Fix: Angle grinder. Grind it down most of the way then use a chisel and a hammer to crack the nut open without touching the threads. If your replacing the axles they will come with new nuts but if not any automotive shop should have them.

 

Blue blow torch; PB blaster, then put a screw driver through the rotor, and jump on the 8 foot pole...

 

Also the shops i took it to said heat will sometimes warp the threads and mostly damage the hub from heat. Thus i wouldn't use heat

 

Heat for a short time shouldn't destroy it...Brakes get hot by driving as well.

 

i'm sure you might have checked but where the nuts kinked in
if they were they you have to completly chisel them apart to get it off.

 

use at least a 3/4 drive and a huge breaker bar. that should work.

 

Take it back to the shop that said they would have to retorque it to spec. Once it is broken loose, even if it is retorqued to spec, it will come off easier when you get home and try to remove it again.

I did the same thing with my crank pulley bolt, I let a shop use their impact to loosen it, then retorque to spec. When I got home, my breaker bar and a simple tool to hold the crank pulley, removed the pulley bolt like butter.