trellix78

I'm getting an error code 92 after installing a blox intake manifold on my GSR.
Anybody else have the same problem? I'm using the stock ecu with CTR intake
cam, ITR exhaust cam and GSR throttle body with ITR intake tube. I've cleared the code a couple of times but it always comes back after a few days and only after revving past about 4000 rpms. I'm thinking that the evap system is not getting the right amount of vacuum but I want to know if anybody else has the same problem.

rough_draft

i think its because there are no secondaries

Ignitecivic

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by omghi2ubbq &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i think its because there are no secondaries </TD></TR></TABLE>

thats what i think too since the gsr has secondaries

trellix78

So...
the ecu is probably expecting a certain amount of vacuum after the secondaries
open?
If that's the case, I'll put an ecu on the long list of things to buy before I die

I can't pass emissions with a code, though

yeegsr

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by trellix78 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So...
the ecu is probably expecting a certain amount of vacuum after the secondaries
open?
If that's the case, I'll put an ecu on the long list of things to buy before I die

I can't pass emissions with a code, though </TD></TR></TABLE>

secondaries not open until 5750 (-,+50rpm), u got CEL above 4000 which is before vtec and 2ndary butterflies

if the ecu expecting a certain vacuum then you should get code 3 for MAP sensor


first there is a code 92? i thought 90 and 91 are the highest codes.

if you think your code is 92, then i have no idea what is code 92 reading, i know code 90 and 91 which are dealing with EVAP and IAB

there are only two vacuums materials that cause a CEL to display are IAB (pink/blue) and EVAP purge control solenoid valve (red).

I know people that didn't install IAB and got CEL, and i dotn have IAB and Secondary butt and i dont have cel either, dont ask me why, i think my ecu is a freak.

check your SAIC sensor connection, map, iab, purge solenoid, there another one next to the map sensor i forgot...

what yr is ur ECU? p28 chipped or p72 or etc, you run obd1 right

trellix78

I'm still running the OBD2 stock P72 GSR ecu.
I haven't converted to OBD1 yet. Other more important stuff has to be fixed.
I got the description of code 92 from http://iam-imports.com/code.html today and
it says Evaporative Emission Control System insufficient purge flow. That can
mean either the evap switch is defective or the evap canister is screwed or something.
I made a t-connection off the line to the EGR valve but I changed the hose and
messed with that connection and the code still isn't going away.

purehonda

i have a skunk2 intake manifold on my 00 gsr and my check light is always on, even after i clear it. it is the evap code, still not sure on the fix though. i'll keep you updated. let me know if you figure it out.

yeegsr

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by trellix78 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm still running the OBD2 stock P72 GSR ecu.
I haven't converted to OBD1 yet. Other more important stuff has to be fixed.
I got the description of code 92 from http://iam-imports.com/code.html today and
it says Evaporative Emission Control System insufficient purge flow. That can
mean either the evap switch is defective or the evap canister is screwed or something.
I made a t-connection off the line to the EGR valve but I changed the hose and
messed with that connection and the code still isn't going away. </TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah, defective evap canister or switch, could be, but your car were fine before blox im right?

just some of my guess hope this will help

i htink obd2 didn't like T routin system, and by reading code 92 definition. I think T routing is a bad idea, by "insufficien purge flow" your vacuum to EVAP canister and from the EVAP canister to Throttle body are bad. or like u said canister is fucked, but rarely, call acura and ask for the correct size of vacuum liine from canister to tb.
So do you think you should do the original way? u got a manual?

Check your EVAP solenoid wire (red) for damage and main relay (yel/black)

reroute everything back to normal again see what happens



good luck again

trellix78

I have that vacuum diagram from the Helm manual that I bought for a 95 GSR by
mistake. I can't use that for any wiring diagrams because I'm afraid the wiring
might be different. I've been reading online about what can happen if there's a
problem with vacuum in the evap emissions system. Apparently, vacuum problems
can interfere with proper fuel pressure to the injectors, making for a lean mixture. This makes sense because my car stumbles a lot and refuses to make any power at high rpms when it's warm. Also, the spark plugs are a really light brown color. I'll check the O2 sensors and find a way to measure the vacuum in the evap system and then report back.

trellix78

I decided to disconnect the vacuum line from the evap switch to the evap canister
to check for vacuum. It looks like the switch is working because I held the hose
up to my cheek and it stuck there. The evap canister is probably defective. Next, I routed the hose back onto a t-connector off of the PCV hose to make it a closed system plus keep the ecu happy and took the car for a drive. It now idles exactly between 750-800 rpms and the throttle response is very good. It even pulls smoothly to 8000 rpms again, even in 5th gear and the check engine light didn't come on. I'll drive it around for a few days and then report back. Now, to fix the oil leak and sucky suspension.

yeegsr

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by trellix78 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I decided to disconnect the vacuum line from the evap switch to the evap canister
to check for vacuum. It looks like the switch is working because I held the hose
up to my cheek and it stuck there. The evap canister is probably defective. Next, I routed the hose back onto a t-connector off of the PCV hose to make it a closed system plus keep the ecu happy and took the car for a drive. It now idles exactly between 750-800 rpms and the throttle response is very good. It even pulls smoothly to 8000 rpms again, even in 5th gear and the check engine light didn't come on. I'll drive it around for a few days and then report back. Now, to fix the oil leak and sucky suspension.</TD></TR></TABLE>

woo nice work...hey im very interesting in this kind of situation.

Will you kind enough to give me a more detail write up. Problem, and solutions to solve problem. What did you replaced, etc etc... please?

Albert Haro

hey I have a 1996 Honda civic lx and I recently changed my intake manifold to a 94 civc ek hatch which was a way different manifold then the one I had everything works fine on it but I had to three hoses left one was a vaccum the other the purge hose and a little one that I guess is a coolant line there two different manifold and the z6 manifold has extra hoses so I need a diagram or help to what I should do