wunfstgsr

Yes but there can be other factors to why it wont start, just cause you have spark at the plug ends don't mean the coil itself has a weak spark, Just recently my ignition coil went bad, I checked and had spark jump from the plug ends but my coil tested bad! replaced it with a king brand from auto zone at least it has a lifetime warranty now and it fired right up, usually the coil goes bad first before the ICM in the distributor and it can be random at the same time having other issues like you and the alternator belt ripping. The coils don't last forever and go out all the time. D series coils also fit and work and can be found on civics with single cam engines at the junk yard or pick a parts yards by the dozens or just get a new one like me lol

tony_2018

specially with all that cranking, then again does the immobilizer kill fuel or spark?

Deanrocker

I wish I knew. It's a helluva coincidence that the alternator belt snaps and that the car won't start once it's replaced. I will say this ... When I went to put on the alternator belt, I couldn't get it over the alternator pully, no matter what I did and how "forward" I adjusted the alternator. I ended up buying the $20 Autozone belt which seemed to be a tad looser, and eventually got it on. HOWEVER, for no good reason, I did "loosen" the bolt at the end of the crank, turning it counter clockwise a bunch of times. Naturally, this was useless, but I don't see how that would've messed up the timing. None of the 3 belts were attached (power steering, A/C or alternator), so it turned smoothly, and in theory, shouldn't that have just moved the cams and the pistons and everything in sync/timing?
Regardless, I did mess with that nut at the end of the crank.
HOWEVER, tonight I got everything aligned, with cams at top-dead center and tick mark on crank pulley alligned to notch on belt cover. Tried starting it, though, and had same symptoms. Battery was weak, though, so I'm charging it overnight. Could you or someone tell me:
If the cams and the pulley are TDC, and #1 piston is at its apex, does this mean that everytime the crank rotates, the cams will be aligned with the up arrows at "noon" and the tick on the belt cover notch? From me turning the crank, it seems that this is not possible. Maybe every 6th or 7th time of rotation do these things fall in sync.
Please advise if that's normal.
Thanks.

Deanrocker

THanks for all your feedback. I think I'll go to salvage yard tomorrow and try to find a started, and some other cheap parts. Seems odd that after the key is turned for 2-3 seconds it changes from a chugging sound to a "whirring" sound.
ALSO, tonight I got everything aligned, with cams at top-dead center and tick mark on crank pulley aligned to notch on belt cover. Tried starting it, though, and had same symptoms. Battery was weak, though, so I'm charging it overnightt and will try in morning, But could you or someone tell me:

If the cams and the pulley are TDC, and #1 piston is at its apex, does this mean that everytime the crank rotates, the cams will be aligned with the up arrows at "noon" and the tick on the belt cover notch? From me turning the crank, it seems that this is not possible. Maybe every 6th or 7th time of rotation do these things fall in sync.

Please advise if that's normal.

Thanks.

wunfstgsr

Yea you have to go through each firing order, rotate it a few times till they come even if all lines up timing is good, move on the starter and ignition coil.
Buy the Haynes manual from the parts store its $20 it literally has all the info you ever need to service these cars, has trouble shooting and everything, do your self a favor and pick one up best $20 you will ever spend and will save you $$$ in the long run!

Deanrocker

Thanks.
1. Do I have to unplug anything related to main computer prior to rotating cams tdc by hand? I didn't. Hope that didn't throw off computer.
2. Can I try starting vehicle with top half of valve cover off?
3. Anything I should be aligning inside distributor?

If it doesn't fire after full battery charge, what's next step? I'm thinking salvage yard for starter and distributor, ignition coil, and ignition immobilizer. Can return unnecessary items.

wunfstgsr

1. No just pull out the spark plugs.
2. No
3. No, distributor usually only goes in one way and should be fine. Believe it should point to cylinder 1.Its possible to put it in 180 deg off and cause the engine not to start it happened too me once, I was baffled, pulled it out rotated the key around and put it back in and it started. But its rare and its usually with reman distributors

tony_2018

Did you by chance find the alternator belt?

Deanrocker

??? It's somewhere on Leroy Selmon Highway in Tampa. Replacing that is what started this whole fiasco. Never had to have a manual to change a serp belt before, until this car. Belts are very hard to get to on the Integra. For some stupid reason I thought loosening the crank nut would help me get on the alternator belt. Went back to AutoZone and the more expensive belt fit. Anyway, alt belt issue is resolved. It's all to do with the crank and cams and timing now.

wunfstgsr

Yea check the timing marks on cams then try working distributor or test the coil and ICM per the manual. and then same with starter.