Deanrocker

Honda/Acura guy all my adult life. Never had any problems needing tech support ... Til now. My son was driving 75 or so going downhill on the highway in his automatic transmission Integra. He said the car suddenly shut off. After getting the car back to the house, I immediately discovered the alternator belt was missing, and the a/c belt was frayed to half its width when new. So ... I replaced both those belts (which were the hardest to get to on any vehicle I've ever changed belts on!) ... Thinking that was the culprit. Charged the battery in the meantime. However, the car still behaved the same when trying to start ... It chugs like it wants to for 3 or 4 seconds before I release the key. Here is a summary in full of what I've done:
1. Checked for fuel at the fuel filter by loosening top bolt. Fuel gushed out when key was turned to on position. So fuel is being pumped at least to that point. Looks wet and smells like gas at the bolt on the side/end of the rail, too.
2. Replaced each spark plug with new ones. Tested and got spark at all 4 cylinders.
3. Tested PSI and got 120 psi at all four cylinders.
4. Tapped starter/checked fuses, etc ...
So ... It appears I have spark and fuel and compression. Am guessing there's some stupid kill switch or something computer-related preventing the car from starting. I will add this fact, though it may be irrelevant ... The plugs were very wet and there was oil in all four chambers when removing the plugs. I have since cleaned and dried them thoroughly. After trying to start the car at least 50 times since, I've checked the plugs and they were a little wet on the tip. Maybe this is irrelevant, as it appears the car was firing/running under these less than ideal conditions for many months/years prior to me discovering the oily spark plug wells.
Anyway, any advice would be appreciated. Was thinking it would be the fuel pump relay, as it appears that's a common problem, but I don't think that's the case.

wunfstgsr

Well sounds like you have fuel! make sure the plugs are dry next time trying to start it. Oil in the spark plug tubes indicate the spark plug tube seals located on the valve cover are leaking and need to be replaced, If there's enough oil it can soak the plug and prevent it from sparking.
First thing you need to check is the fuses under the dash as well as the engine bay, im willing to bet you fried the number 15 fuse!
After double checking the fuses open the distributor cap and inspect the rotor but if you say you confirmed spark then the rotor should be fine but its very easy to pull the cap off.
Try using a power lead and connect the clip to the starter power pin, pull out the oem harness plug back and clip on the lead to the starter and ground it to the battery and try starting the engine to see if there's any break in the starter harness. If it still wont start take off the valve cover and spark plugs and with a 19mm socket rotate the engine by hand till the cam gears line up to TDC and visually confirm the cams are aligned and the mech timing has not moved a tooth or two on the cam gears.
I believe you have a blown fuse more than any other situation.

Deanrocker

Thanks for the response. I'll start with what you call "The number 15 fuse." By that do you mean the 15 amp fuse that controls the fuel pump? If so, that's intact. I don't have any numbered fuses anywhere in the vehicle that I can find. As far as the distributor ... If I have spark at the plugs, I'm not sure the distributor is going to unearth any problems. I do not know what you mean by "Try using a power lead and connect the clip to the starter power pin, pull out the oem harness plug back and clip on the leads to the starter and ground it to the battery." If you're talking about using jumper cables, I can give that a shot. Kind of wanted to see what you meant by number 15 fuse first. Thanks for reading my posts and your response.
Dean

Deanrocker

Also, does anyone think this could be related to an ignition sensor or ignition immobilizer? I don't have the flashing green key symbol anymore, though it used to flash 5 times once I put the key in and moved it to the on position. That miraculously went away.

wunfstgsr

Check the diagram of the fuse box for #15 its common for the fuse to blow when the Alternator belt breaks ect..






I was trying to explain using a power lead to jump the starter to see if the starter is working its probably not the starter but its a easy quick way to make sure the starter is working.

wunfstgsr

This is possible the 2000 obd2B have that stupid immobilizer, try wiggling the key in the ignition before trying to start it.

Deanrocker

Thanks a bunch once again. Unfortunately, my fuse box under the dash doesn't correspond to the one in the pics you sent of the '96. I guess they changed between then and '00.
I will try messing with the starter tomorrow. I honestly think it must be security related, as there is fuel, spark and compression. The battery is 100 percent fully charged and at 12.6 volts.
It is weird, though, that the sound changes when I turn the key. First 2-3 seconds sounds like a car about to turn over. But then it sounds more like a "whirring" sound instead of chugging. Can I post a video on here?

Deanrocker

Here's a link to my fuse box diagram:
https://www.autogenius.info/acura-in...e-box-diagram/

wunfstgsr

Make sure the Alt. belt is on tight.
I cant seem to figure out how the Alt. belt breaking off would cause a security issue with the ignition or ECU it just doesn't make sense. This sound you explain, "But then it sounds more like a "whirring" sound instead of chugging" sounds to me like the battery, starter or Alternator is dead. Have you had the Alternator bench tested at the auto store? And the same for the battery? When the alternator dies or belt rips and you drive it home or for a period of time the battery is drastically drained and will need to be charged and or replaced, you said it was charged, where and how was it charged? I would have all three tested free at Auto zone just to be sure, Im willing to bet its either one of those parts that went bad, a bad alternator can prevent your car from starting up.cause it will not recharge battery and if your battery is out, car wont start. Try to find a way to rechange the battery and fire up the car. let the car run and pull positive cable off from battery and if car still runs that means your alternator is good. if not run.take alternator out and bring it to your local auto parts store and they will check it for you for free and make sure the plug going into the alternator is not loose I have seen this happen as well! Also have you tried jump starting the car with jumper cables traditional way?

Deanrocker

Deanrocker

I have charged battery to full capacity with battery charger. Have also securely clamped jumper cables to Acura RSX. Still doesn't start. I thought maybe the starter isn't fully engaged, hence the sound change after the fir st 23 seconds. Maybe it's still a weak battery even though it's been charged to capacity. Maybe me my jumper cables werent making great contact. I will pull bathere next, have it tested, and jump start from cables to cables, bypassing battery.

Couldn't a sheared belt whip around and disturb a harness or sensor? Do tow companies disable any part of car prior to towing? I could call them in morning. Fuses appear all good.

Deanrocker

I don't mind paying someone for an answer. Am losing my m8nd and lots of time over this. So much for all you need is spark, air and fuel. Even have compressiion. Maybe it's timing. Not too cimonfident messing with that, though I had valve cover off.

Deanrocker

here is a link to sound of car.

tony_2018

Is the immobilizer emblem blinking or solid on the cluster when you put the key in?

Deanrocker

The green key symbol was blinking a few days ago, but now it's solid. This whole damn thing has me baffled. Am wasting money on spark plug wires that I'll try on Sunday, but I'd be shocked if that was it. The #3 wire did have some spark bleeding out of it, and a weak spark, but I don't know if that would keep it from starting. Battery was confirmed strong/good at 12.7 volts.

89brokendownEF

check the resistance on ignition coil

89brokendownEF

timing may have jumped a tooth

Deanrocker

I suppose I could do this, but if I have a strong spark at all 4 plugs, doesn't that mean the entire ignition system is good? The #3 wire did have a leak in it, and was a bit weaker, so I'm waiting to install some new ignition wires I ordered that I'll get Sunday. If the spark is good on all 4 at that point, I think I'll proceed to take off the valve cover. I know the belt is off to the right, but have no idea how to turn it, or where to turn it to. The belt is good and snug and the teeth mesh perfectly.

hellah fresh

Have you tried checking the little map sensor inside the distributor? I had to replace 2 of those sensors on 2 different cars due to then randomly not wanting to start.

Deanrocker

I have not. I had the distributor apart, but it looked good, and like I said, I am getting spark at the 4 plugs (except the leak/weak spark in #3. If the map sensor was bad, would I have spark at the plugs?

wunfstgsr

Map sensor is located on the throttle body there is no map sensor in the distributor. Don't listen to these guy that don't know poop. You can still have spark and still have a crank but no start issue, use a volt meter to check the voltage on the ignition coil and ICM inside the distributor, you can find the procedure online or the service manual. you could very well have a bad ignition coil which is very common with no start issues, 95% of the time with these issues its something very simple and overlooked, do the basics, check the alternator plug and wires, bust out the volt meter and check the coil, then go from there when you have confirmed the coil is good and spark is strong, I bet its your ignition coil that took a dump on you.

Deanrocker

I guess I'm just making false assumptions that if spark is strong at all 4 plugs, ignition system is doing its job. But you say otherwise, correct?

wunfstgsr

Deanrocker

Mustvehicle be in neutral to rotate cams or crank pulley?

wunfstgsr

Yes put it in neutral, pull out the spark plugs! then with a 1/2 '' ratchet and 19mm rotate by hand CCW and watch the cams and line up the arrows so they point up and the middle line lines up on each cam gear.