Thank you.

It's the PLM Power Driven (V2). I bought it from Witz in the Hondamarketplace here: http://hondamarketplace.com/showthread.php?t=2916203. Here's the website https://www.privatelabelmfg.com/product_p/plm-hb18-v2-header.htm

The header is beautiful.

 

My Type-R differential ball bearings should arrive Tuesday so, while I'm waiting on those to finish my transmission, I'm looking for other **** to do.

I've been toying with the idea of sending my Throttle Body out to get bored to 68mm. Now, I've wasted a lot of money on this build and, not wanting to waste more, I decided to take some measurements (after cleaning it with Carburetor cleaner). I don't have a caliper but I also don't need exact measurements.


From the looks of it, I won't need to spend another $100 (plus shipping) to bore my throttle body. This is a bonus. Thanks to Clint, the guy I bought my motor from, for also selling me a bored TB.

Now, we all know that having a bored TB doesn't mean **** if there's a choke downstream. In fact, a bored TB is likely to be detrimental. Well, LHT claims that they bore the S-tube to 68mm to accommodate larger TBs. (here)


What do you guys think? Doesn't look like it's bored to 68mm to me. Now, I've been trying really hard not to get P.O'd. and flame this company and I haven't contacted them to make a complaint. They may have excellent customer service and help me out. But, between them not honoring my request to work on my manifold, the crappy work that's been done to the manifold that they've sent me and the problems its caused with my fuel rail, and now this, I'm really unhappy with them. It seems like their work is really inconsistent and I got duds across the board. I'm 65% confident that I can fix the fuel rail problem without sending the manifold back and this improperly bored S-tube can be fixed with a Dremal no problem but, come on.

 

My B16 swapped hatch spent 3-4 days under about 3-4 feet of water last fall when Isaac rolled through. Your build had inspired me to document my own. I get started saturday.

 

My differential bearings should arrive today so I'll, hopefully, be able to finish up my transmission assembly today.

I borrowed a drum grinder wheel to use with my drill so I should be able to match my S-tube to my throttle body with week.

I should have access to a mill this weekend. Hopefully I can finish modifying my fuel rail to get it to fit.

Really, that's about all that's left. I need to pick up a catch can assembly, I'm just waffling on buying used instead of new, and mount my FMIC and water pump. I'm anticipating some trouble with hoses but it shouldn't be anything too ridiculous.

 

Wow, I'm sorry to hear of your difficulties and I wish you good luck in your project. It'll be a major one. Hopefully we on Honda-Tech can help you out if you have questions. I know I've received a lot of help.

 

Which TPS should I buy?


Background
The plug on my TPS was damaged the last time I pulled my motor so I need a replacement. Now, when it comes to sensors, I would prefer to purchase OEM components but, as we all know, Honda doesn't offer a replacement TPS.

While researching I found this thread discussing K-Series TPS failures (Let's Talk TPS Failures by JW Racing. Apparently, TPS failure is common on K-Series cars. However, I'm not finding anything specific to B-Series TPS failures so I'm wondering if they are manufactured different or if their positioning reduces the vibrations and heat enough such that failure isn't common. It's likely that they are manufactured the same as their K-Series counter parts so I won't be purchasing a BLOX TPS.


Questions

• Has anyone had any bad experiences with any particular brand of B-Series TPS'?
  
• Does anyone know of a comparison article I can read? I really like how the reviewer in the link, provided above, dissects the TPS to provide a thorough review.
  
• Does anyone have a bad aftermarket TPS that they'd be willing to dissect and post pictures of?

Answer: B, D, F, and H series TPS are the same. Go to a junkyard.

 

D and B is all the same just get an oem from a junker and a spare and your set for life

ps did you get my pm msg ?

 

Really? I didn't know that. I've got a few pick-and-pull yards within an hours drive of me. I'll have to check them out. We're getting snow today though... I would still like to pursue reviewing some aftermarket Throttle Position Sensors. We'll see if I actually do. Probably not...

I did get your PM. I just didn't respond. Too frustrated. Oh well, I've got a buddy with access to a mill. I should be able to fabricate some kind of fix for my woes. It just sucks that the Quality Control is so sh'tty. It's not hard to make a jig for something that's going to be made over and over again to ensure quality.

 

Bearing replacement.

I don't have snap ring pliers or feeler gauges so I can't measure the thrust clearances in the case. Looks like I'll be going to pick up some tools!



I used a race from an old tapered roller bearing. It provides just enough clearance to not not mess with the shaft but remains on the inner race of the new bearing.






As with everything I do, tonight was not without a f'ck up. Chipped the VSS gear. I'm thinking I can clean up any burrs and just leave it...

 

that chip is nothing to worrie about its not a high load gear at all
it just spins the VSS

but it might cost you 5KW

 

FUUUUUUUUUUUUUCK

 

Dam dude how did you do that

or did the mice eat it ?

 

It's funny you should say that because I do have some mice running around in my walls at the moment. I've got poison out but the little bastards wake me up every night...

How did I break the case? Well, after my 10th attempt at getting the case on by myself I called my dad up, explained to him that I think one of the shift fork shafts or the change holder shaft isn't aligned properly and that I needed help. He came over, looked at the massive 1/2 gap along the mating surfaces, and was like "it's fine! we'll just use the bolts to lower down." I protested because I knew something would get f'cked (everything has). He didn't listen. Finally I gave up. The change holder shaft wasn't aligned. We torqued the case bolts down. Now I have a hole in my case.

I might be able to get it fixed. Or, I'll buy another case...

 

Id buy a case
and BAN your dad from it ...LOL

 

I think it's just that time of the month for me so I'm getting all worked up over it. A used case won't cast THAT much and it might be possible to fix. It'd be easy for a skilled machines to create a jig to properly locate the broken piece of the casting. Hell... I could do it if I had a mill. I just can't weld.

 

I might pick up another case this weekend...

 

Since MRGRIM is the only person reading this thread, I'm going to start filling it with even more useless crap.


This show is pretty funny.

 

mmm But its not in brail .....

 

^ lol... story of one of my asian friends first driving experience

 

Ha. If one of my friends ever did anything like I would never let them live it down.

 

^ kid is loaded and now owns a 2012 mustang GT

 

Milled my fuel rail with the help of a friend.

Driver side and center mount tabs milled. Removed ~0.25" of material from the top side.


Test fit.


Test fit.


Test fit showing counter-sunk allen head bolts.


3/18/2013 Update

I didn't like how my fuel rail is resting upon my manifold. The manifold will be pressurized and the vibrations from the engine, mass of the fuel rail, and reaction forces from the fuel injectors will all cause the fuel rail to vibrate against the manifold. In addition, as you can see in Figure 1, below, the construction of the LHT heat manifold exchanger and my modifications only leaves three threads of the retaining studs showing. This is fine if the studs only resisted axial loads; however, it's not ideal for a screw that's loaded both axially and with a moment. See Figure 2.


Figure 1


Figure 2

Based on Figure 2, we can see that a moment will be created about the point of restraint that will force the fuel rail tabs in to the manifold. To prevent this from causing a problem in the future, I removed MORE material from the tab so that I could add a piece of rubber between the fuel rail and the manifold.

 

While working on the fuel rail I noticed another thing about my modified intake that I don't like.

 

Bought not built.

 

Amazing work man, looks awesome