CX-Adam

Once again, thank you MRGRIM. I saw your setup. What confused me is that's where the JR instructions say to to install the plug.

I didn't know the FICV is a system that could be removed (as long as the TB was compatible). Does the IAC connection get capped off or would I need a different IAC? Dammit... you're making me want to spend more money now!

Lsvteceg1211

Your car looks really good seeing before and after pics... Really clean cant wait to finish mine!

CX-Adam

General update:

My Moss order should come in tomorrow so i'll be able to rebuild/replace missing components for my supercharger. No word on my OEM parts order but I should have all new engine gaskets, seals, and an OEM GSR oil pump soon. I'll add or remove the washer that differentiates the GSR pump from the ITR pump if I need to.

I need to order a Throttle Position Sensor. Mine has a broken connector. I wish I could order an OEM one. I've read and seen pictures that demonstrate that the aftermarket TPS aren't made to the same standard of quality.

I need a new battery for my daily... I took it to a self wash yesterday and it didn't start after washing it... Luckily, my finance was there with her car and she gave me a jump. My DD is cranking so slow... Hopefully I don't need a new starter motor or alternator.

Thanks!

Javier801

Congrats to you and your dad.!!! Your car looks really nice.,

dustydubs

nice work

MT-Civic

Wow great job. I hope to do this with my son some day but I have alot to learn first.

gswallace17

nice. im jealous

CX-Adam

I was around for 25 years before my dad did this with me. Unless he's 25 already, you've got plenty of time.

dirty19

iTrader: (1)

Excellent research by you, and your dad has the skillz!
Im sure he does this for a living, and makes a nice living out out it.
If not, you should rent him out and make some more money for your build.

This is one of the best reincarnations i have seen in many moons!

Whooreheiixh23

very nice build!

NoGraffix

Beautiful build man. I'm looking to start my own civic build in the near future (shopping for a shell, already have found by GSR swap). I'm also in the chicago burbs (Niles). Maybe sometime I can come check out your build. I'm new to the honda scene, but have some experience with subarus (I daily an 08 WRX making 316whp/365wtq on e85). I'm hoping to boost my honda after I take it out for a few runs around the track just as NA. The car will be purely for road course racing. I'd love to hear any helpful hints you have. I've jsut started lurking on HT so I'll be reading through your build and others like it.

CX-Adam

Thank you.

First of all, welcome to Honda-Tech.

As far as tips go, you're better off talking with other members. I've linked to a lot of helpful threads throughout my build thread.

Here are some tips:

• Pick a chassis you like.
• Identify its weaknesses.
• Determine how long you'll keep the car for.
• Find a shell in decent condition.
• Plan everything out in a spreadsheet with prices then try and beat the prices.
• It's ok to buy used. Just take your time and inspect everything.
• Drum brakes are useless and hard to work on.
• 5-lug swaps are a waste of money, in my opinion.
• If you're taking apart the suspension on a 15 year old car from the midwest, plan on using a MAP gas torch to loosen all the undercarriage bolts.
• Invest in tools to assist in removing broken bolts/screws.
• A power brake bleeder kit is worth the investment. Bench bleed the Master Cylinder before reinstalling it.
• I, personally, care nothing about branding and won't spend extra for Mugen or Spoon if equivalent performance can be found elsewhere.
• Buy the Helms manual(s)
• Buy a crank pulley removal tool.
• If you can avoid pulling and dropping an engine from the top, do it. They're meant to be dropped out the bottom.
• Take your time. Pick one aspect and work on it until it's done.
• Tag and bag all bolts, nuts, screws, tabs, hoses, sensors, wires, and engine internals,
• Do it right the first time. Plan on replacing seals and gaskets.
• Enjoy what you're doing. Take pride in your work. Respect yourself, your wallet, your car, and everyone else's car. Don't contribute to the "Honda vs. " hate.

CX-Adam

Ok, so in this post (here) I describe a problem I'm having with my LHT manifold. Well, I was able to grind down the tabs on my fuel rail but now I'm anticipating another problem. I don't think there will be any way in hell that I'll be able to remove enough thread from the fuel rail studs to clear the manifold and still be able to bolt the rail on. Also, I'll probably need to grind a face of the nuts... I'm not sure what to do...

However, I may be able to take 2 threads off the studs and it may be be fine. We'll see. If it doesn't work, then I'll contact LHT tomorrow.

Here's a picture of my manifold showing the interference with the studs. You can see that I'll need to cut all the threads off to clear the manifold.


Here's a picture from Gooch's-JDM's build thread. (hopefully he's ok with me jacking it)

Notice the lack of material showing between the weld lines where the hump in the manifold is. Then, look back at mine and see how far my manifold projects.

CX-Adam

Ok, I haven't gotten it to fit yet but, for those of you who don't know, here's a good way to grind a bolt (or stud) without f'ing up the threads.

1. Find a way to secure the bolt. I've predrilled a hole in a board and placed the board in a table vice.

2. Shim out an old nut that FITS the threads so that only the threads you want to remove are showing. Note, the nut will be ruined when you're done so don't plan on using it.

3. Use a grinder to remove the threads. I've used a drill with a grinding wheel.

4. Do NOT remove the fitted nut. First remove the bolt from the board and then remove the shims.

5. Slowly remove the fitted nut Half Way. Then, re-thread it. Then 3/4 of the way. You want to work it over the ground threads.

6. Completely remove the nut. and deburr the bolt using your finger nails. The threads SHOULD be in good condition.

7. Repeat.

Note, I did this to the fuel rail studs. As such, I took a little off both sides. Don't be confused by the shim arrangement. The first picture didn't work out and I need to fix it. The final picture is a comparison of what I started with and what I ended with. Although, I will need to take more off...

MRGRIM

iTrader: (1)

just a small tip i did with myn

I had some trouble with the same thing
I used allen head bolts to secure the fuel rail

CX-Adam

Thanks. I'll try and find some the right length. I don't think I'll be able to get a nut on the way I'm trying to do it now.

street_racer_271

iTrader: (8)

wow nice build. Lot of work going into this hatch.

CX-Adam

I took another three or four threads off the stud that I've already shortened. It still doesn't fit. I'll probably have to take one more thread off.

The shortened stud still wont thread in straight.


This picture demonstrates how much I've taken off already. The stock length is in the background. Both are resting on the face of the intake manifold tab.


This next picture shows how much material I've had to grind off the fuel rail mount tabs to get it to clear the intake manifold. It's cut on an angle.


This last picture shows how much thread I have left on either side of the fuel rail and the spacer. Not much.



I really only need 4 full threads but I've barely got that. I'll probably need to do what Mr. Grim has recommended and use allen bolts. But, even those may need to be ground down. Or, I have a friend in Madison Wi. that I could visit and use the mill he has access to. We could mill down the fuel rail tab so that it isn't as thick when measured parallel to the access of the bolt hole. If I remove material from the side of the fuel rail that's on "top" I won't affect the clearances for the injectors. I doubt the reaction forces from the injectors is enough to require as much material that's there anyways. Stay tuned folks.

(all pictures taken with an HTC One X)

MRGRIM

iTrader: (1)

the thing I notice is that the fuel rail bolt tabs are alot thinker on the OEM rail as compared to after market rail
I just had a look at myn and the Golden eagle rail is almost half as thick as the stock rail

CX-Adam

Ok, that's good. Now I know I remove some material and not sorry about compromising the integrity of the rail. Thanks!

HKSkiD714

Good build mate

CX-Adam

I FINALLY reassembled my main shaft. I don't know what I did wrong the first few times but, it just slipped right together this time.



I still need to finish cleaning the case and I need to replace the seals and bearings still.

MRGRIM

iTrader: (1)

did you do anything with your needle bearings in the gears ??

CX-Adam

Nope. They looked fine so I didn't replace them. I just cleaned everything really well. My transmission was pretty clean on the inside. The syncros were a little worn and the reverse gear wasn't great so I replaced those.

CX-Adam

Replaced my water pump gasket and the 2" JRSC belt tensioner pulley. I need to find more than an hour at a time to work on this stuff...