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That milky stuff. Seen it before under the oil cap on my gsr. Problem being weather, temp changes and car not being run to full temp. Usually from parking long period of time with minimal start up to move from one parking spot to another. That was my case. Seen it every winter when I don't drive it as often. Even when it get driven, only for short distance but not long enough for engine to reach full temp..
I've got a wideband coming my way and I also splurged on the myhondahabit gasket. I don't want to have to mess with the oil pan again.
New Fuel Pressure Gauge
I'm thinking about stripping this, having AN fittings welded on, and painting it. Yay or nay? I could try the wrinkle red, wrinkle black, or gloss red. I don't think I'd want another color. Previous owner screwed up the cut out and the coating is already chipping.
Originally Posted by CX-Adam
I need to recheck the following locations.
This is brake fluid. I had replaced one of the lines going to the proportioning valve and the fitting isn't quiet tight. Apparently I used an SAE fitting, too. My 10 mm line wrench is too big and can't tightening anymore and my 9mm line wrench is too small. It's probably a 3/8". I haven't fixed it yet but it'll be easy once I get an SAE wrench/line wrench.
I'm thinking about stripping this, having AN fittings welded on, and painting it. Yay or nay? I could try the wrinkle red, wrinkle black, or gloss red. I don't think I'd want another color. Previous owner screwed up the cut out and the coating is already chipping.
When in doubt, always strip and repaint. If you take your time, it's one thing you know you won't screw up. No matter what else goes wrong in the future, you'll at least know your engine looks dope.
It's a B&M Gauge that I bought off Amazon. It comes with a new banjo bolt, a 90* fitting, and a new crush washer. There's no sending unit for it, though. So, be aware of that.
You shouldn't need a FP Gauge on a stock car. I needed wanted it for some diagnostic purposes and to fine tune the open and close event times for my injectors in SManger (Hondata S300 programming software).
Originally Posted by Bently_Coop
Home Depot has some Husky flare wrench kits that are decent. Nice updates.
Thanks, Coop! Shinsen's been helping me with some of the tuning stuff.
It's a B&M Gauge that I bought off Amazon. It comes with a new banjo bolt, a 90* fitting, and a new crush washer. There's no sending unit for it, though. So, be aware of that.
You shouldn't need a FP Gauge on a stock car. I needed wanted it for some diagnostic purposes and to fine tune the open and close event times for my injectors in SManger (Hondata S300 programming software).
True, I guess I would not *need* the gauge for stock, n/a B18, more of a want. I added fool injection to an old Land Cruiser and was plagued with problems until I found the return line was plugged and I had 70+ PSI at the rail. Ever since then I have wanted FP gauges on everything...
Is sending unit required for gauge to read? Or just if you want to monitor remotely (in the cabin)?
Thanks Angelsbeamer. I'll let you know how the gasket works out. I just got it yesterday but have not been able to install.
Originally Posted by mrmessma
When in doubt, always strip and repaint. If you take your time, it's one thing you know you won't screw up. No matter what else goes wrong in the future, you'll at least know your engine looks dope.
I don't want a cutout valve cover while driving. That being said, I might as well clean it up.
Troof. Sure naked timing belts look pretty, but street cars have a habit of driving on the street and picking up all sorts of nonsense. Give me the covers kthx.
I installed an FLP shifter in my hatch yesterday, which is nice. Very nice actually.
I'll take pictures tomorrow and post 'em. I don't have any from today.
I got my wideband wired up. D10, A25, and A26. I don't have clippers small enough to cut R136 and R138 out of the ECU so I didn't test it out. I'll get a pair tomorrow.
Tightened the one nut on my proportioning valve that was leaking brake fluid.
I also got the oil pan down and a couple of the studs removed. The double nut technique was working pretty well on some of them and the rest I'm letting soak over night in penetrating oil. If they don't come out tomorrow with the double nut technique, I'll get a welder over here and weld a nut to the stud.
I spent a lot of time out in the garage today in sub freezing temps (20-30*F). My soldering skills leave something to be desired and getting at the ELD, power, and ground wires in the factory rat's nest going into the ECU plugs is difficult. Especially with the passenger seat installed and not enough room to open the door more than enough to squeeze into the car. But, I got decent solder connections and every thing is wrapped in heat shrink and electrical tape. The PLX controller is tucked nicely into my glove box and I'll eventually epoxy it in place. Now I need to figure out how I'll mount the gauge. I'll probably get one of those dual gauge bezel surrounds. I'll sort that detail out once I get everything working.
Stud removal:
I started out using the vice grip. I got one out fairly easily but the second was a massive pain. After smacking my knuckles several times and bruising my tender office worker palms like a little bitch opening and closing the vice grip, I decided to change tactics.
Double nut. Thread up two nuts and tighten them against each other. Then use an open ended wrench to losing the stud from the captured nut. This worked fine for all but two.
After several hours in the freezing garage on Saturday, I stopped with three studs remaining. The one I had rounded with the vice grip and the other two that weren't spinning out with the two nuts. I soaked in penetrating oil and went inside.
In the morning, I came out and hit them with penetrating oil a second time. I had also had the idea of using Loctite to adhere the nuts to the studs better. So I did that and went to Ace Hardware to get a grommet for my wideband wire and a pair of clippers to remove R136 and R138 from my ECU. When I got back, one of the studs threaded out. The other still held tight. So, I pulled the nuts off and hit them and the stud with brake clean and then wiped them down with a paper towel. I reapplied Loctite and threaded the nuts back up and against themselves.
Success!!! The clean surfaces allowed the Loctite to grab on and after allowing plenty of time for it to set (~2 hours) and working the stud back and forth to keep it from breaking I was able to get it off.
The final stud was a total bitch. I had already rounded it off so I had no choice but to keep using the vice grip. After 33 minutes, the stud was out. (That's the time stamp difference between the two pictures.)
Some of the threads in the bolt/stud holes were messed up so I went out and picked up an M6x1.0 tap and chased all the holes to clean them up.
Studs and gasket installed.
At this point I was cold and still had to do an oil change on my DD so I called it quits for the day.
...I spent a lot of time out in the garage today in sub freezing temps (20-30*F). My soldering skills leave something to be desired and getting at the ELD, power, and ground wires in the factory rat's nest going into the ECU plugs is difficult. Especially with the passenger seat installed and not enough room to open the door more than enough to squeeze into the car...
Ah, good times!
Why were the studs for the oil pan such a *****? It sounds like it has not been that long ago you built the engine. Is that just pure road salt eating stuff up?
Why were the studs for the oil pan such a *****? It sounds like it has not been that long ago you built the engine. Is that just pure road salt eating stuff up?
Such good times! Tight back for days.
The oil pan studs never came out when we rebuilt the engine and had the block bored and decked. No road salt. There's only 1 mile of actual road time on this build. They were a PITA because I tried to use a vice grip. I'm sure they would have come out fine if I had tried double nutting all of them.
Green connector is on the Knock, yes? Was green connector factory color for this? (You can hear my obsession starting, can't you?)
I have actually been thinking about how best to tighten the intake when I go to re-install my head. Since I am mostly working alone, I am leery of throwing the head plus that bulky IAB manifold on in one piece. When I took them off together I broke my Knock sensor
I've got an old banana I could send you. What's your address?
Originally Posted by 94 Civic Si
Green connector is on the Knock, yes? Was green connector factory color for this? (You can hear my obsession starting, can't you?)
I don't remember. I could look it up but, IDGAF ATM.
Originally Posted by 94 Civic Si
I have actually been thinking about how best to tighten the intake when I go to re-install my head. Since I am mostly working alone, I am leery of throwing the head plus that bulky IAB manifold on in one piece. When I took them off together I broke my Knock sensor
You're a strong guy, you can put the head on with the IM. That's how I see most head gasket repair videos do it.
01-22-2017, 03:34 PM
Re: My 95 Civic CX hatch build
I could look it up but, IDGAF ATM.