MIL Spec Connectors
03-26-2005, 05:59 AM
#26
Honda-Tech Member
herein the good ole' marines, i have a shitload of those connectors on my M1A1 tank, but we call them "cannon plugs" i will see what i can do about some, but i will have to go look thru the catalogue for the "main gun function control unit" cause all the other plugs utilize about 150 wires a piece
03-27-2005, 09:23 PM
#27
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Thread Starter
Ok, I've been looking thorugh the Allied catalog and want to use series 1 I guess for the ECU wiring. Her's the link to it.
http://www.alliedelec.com/cata...6.pdf
What I want is the square flange receptacle with mounting holes in probably 16 or 24 pin, not sure yet. What woul I use for the other end. The square end will be mounted on the firewall.
http://www.alliedelec.com/cata...6.pdf
What I want is the square flange receptacle with mounting holes in probably 16 or 24 pin, not sure yet. What woul I use for the other end. The square end will be mounted on the firewall.
03-28-2005, 05:39 PM
#28
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Re: (PandaHatch)
Here is a quick list of part #'s for a 24 pin connector, its the same one i used. Part #'s are allieds p/n not amps
512-8967---24 pin flange mount receptacle.
512-1120---24 pin plug.
You'll notice in the pics on their site they dont include cable clamps. You'll want at least 1 cable clamp for the plug side which will be under the hood. You dont have to have one on the cabin side, its up to you.
512-1265---Small cable clamp
512-1285--Large cable clamp
I used Large cable clamps and they are too big and look like ***. I have the small clamps here and I will install them when I depin the connectors and shrink everything up. I would recommend the small clamps but look at the dimensions of the cable clamps on page 110 and see what ID you'll need. I used all 24 pins with 21 of them being 18 gauge SXL wire and 3 being 16 gauge and the small clamps would have worked.
You'll also want the extractor p/n 512-9140 or your not getting the contacts back out.
Dont need the insertion tool, just push them in until they "click" into place.
I dont know the correct p/n for the crimpers, i didn't use them.
As far as contacts I really cant help with a p/n. You'll have to determine what gauge wiring your using and the insulation OD and which contact finish you'll want. The Series 1 type III+ multimates are the ones you'll want. THey're rated for 7.5 amps which will cover all the sensors, injectors and crap.
You'll more than likely want a hole saw also.
512-8967---24 pin flange mount receptacle.
512-1120---24 pin plug.
You'll notice in the pics on their site they dont include cable clamps. You'll want at least 1 cable clamp for the plug side which will be under the hood. You dont have to have one on the cabin side, its up to you.
512-1265---Small cable clamp
512-1285--Large cable clamp
I used Large cable clamps and they are too big and look like ***. I have the small clamps here and I will install them when I depin the connectors and shrink everything up. I would recommend the small clamps but look at the dimensions of the cable clamps on page 110 and see what ID you'll need. I used all 24 pins with 21 of them being 18 gauge SXL wire and 3 being 16 gauge and the small clamps would have worked.
You'll also want the extractor p/n 512-9140 or your not getting the contacts back out.
Dont need the insertion tool, just push them in until they "click" into place.
I dont know the correct p/n for the crimpers, i didn't use them.
As far as contacts I really cant help with a p/n. You'll have to determine what gauge wiring your using and the insulation OD and which contact finish you'll want. The Series 1 type III+ multimates are the ones you'll want. THey're rated for 7.5 amps which will cover all the sensors, injectors and crap.
You'll more than likely want a hole saw also.
03-29-2005, 03:23 PM
#30
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Re: (PandaHatch)
https://www.alliedelec.com/Cus...2.asp
Go to "Contact Us", scroll down to sales office info then select your state. Theres a branch in columbus and another in Cleveland.
Go to "Contact Us", scroll down to sales office info then select your state. Theres a branch in columbus and another in Cleveland.
03-29-2005, 04:33 PM
#32
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Re: (PandaHatch)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PandaHatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do they sell direct if you go there? Columbus isn't too far away.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Cant answer that one. I've only purchased from them online. I've ordered 3 times from them and though they weren't the quickest shippers I've seen they were reasonable, 5-7 business days.
Cant answer that one. I've only purchased from them online. I've ordered 3 times from them and though they weren't the quickest shippers I've seen they were reasonable, 5-7 business days.
03-30-2005, 09:55 PM
#33
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
I ordered their catalog, I wanna look through it and see what I'm going to need. I'm gonna try calling them and see if I can pick the stuff up there, that way I can get everything I need and make sure on it, thanks for all your help.
04-10-2005, 12:12 PM
#34
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Does anyone know which AMP connectors to use for power? I have a 2 PIN connector that comes in on the driver side and both wires are 10awg. I need a connector for these. I have everything else figured out now. Those are the last 2 wires I'm not sure how to pass...and the altenator wire to get to the fuse box in the interior.
04-10-2005, 10:21 PM
#36
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
I found a 3 PIn that would work fine. Also could I use this to pass an altenator wire through the wirewall, or should I just drill a hole, grommet it and pass it through? It's a big gauge.
What is the best metal material for the contacts for the series 1 and series 3? They have like 10 different kinds on page 109 for the series 1 and 3 types on page 110 for the series 3?
You've been more than helpful with this build.
Modified by PandaHatch at 8:32 AM 4/11/2005
Modified by PandaHatch at 8:39 AM 4/11/2005
What is the best metal material for the contacts for the series 1 and series 3? They have like 10 different kinds on page 109 for the series 1 and 3 types on page 110 for the series 3?
You've been more than helpful with this build.
Modified by PandaHatch at 8:32 AM 4/11/2005
Modified by PandaHatch at 8:39 AM 4/11/2005
04-11-2005, 10:28 AM
#37
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Re: (PandaHatch)
I just used the Tin-Lead contacts for both the series 1 and 3. I really dont know the difference so I just went with the cheapest ones. For over $5 per set of contacts for the series 3 they better work well 
I also just used the 3 position connector in the series 3 but I'm only running the starter solenoid and radiator fans through mine.
As far as the series 3 being able to handle the alternator wire I dont know. I'm not familiar with Hondas to know what it's feeding plus I dont know the specs on the series 3 contacts as far as max current rating.
No problem with the assistance. I spent many hours looking though all that crap until I finally felt comfortable with what I had selected to make a purchase. Though these connectors are really cheap compared to some I've looked at they are still expensive when your on a budget and I'd hate to see someone waste money on crap that wasn't needed.
I also just used the 3 position connector in the series 3 but I'm only running the starter solenoid and radiator fans through mine. As far as the series 3 being able to handle the alternator wire I dont know. I'm not familiar with Hondas to know what it's feeding plus I dont know the specs on the series 3 contacts as far as max current rating.
No problem with the assistance. I spent many hours looking though all that crap until I finally felt comfortable with what I had selected to make a purchase. Though these connectors are really cheap compared to some I've looked at they are still expensive when your on a budget and I'd hate to see someone waste money on crap that wasn't needed.
04-11-2005, 08:03 PM
#38
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Re: (KP)
The series 3 only handle up to 25 amps per contact, so I wouldn't use it for the alternator. The alt. puts out around 60 amps or so, which would probably melt the connectors, or just start a fire. You can get a part thats made to pass power wires through a fire wall, it's basically a bolt thats insulated from the sheetmetal, you hook up either side to the cable you want to connect, that way you can still disconnect it with ease, rather than having a solid wire run through.
04-12-2005, 04:54 AM
#40
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Re: (PandaHatch)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PandaHatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Any idea where to get that part from?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Search http://store.summitracing.com for part number SUM-G1431, listed as Bulkhead Cable Connector. They go for $9.69.
Search http://store.summitracing.com for part number SUM-G1431, listed as Bulkhead Cable Connector. They go for $9.69.
04-12-2005, 05:54 AM
#42
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Re: (PandaHatch)
http://www.waytekwire.com/waytech.htm has them for $5.79. Not much cheaper than Summit but I think Summit has a flat shipping rate of around $8. Waytech has a $5 handling charge so it'll be around $7 cheaper from there. They are Waytech p/n 47212 or look under wiring accessories, terminal strips & junction blocks.
The 25 amp rating on the series 3 contacts is kind of surprising. Those are some beefy *** contacts for that low of a rating.
The 25 amp rating on the series 3 contacts is kind of surprising. Those are some beefy *** contacts for that low of a rating.
04-12-2005, 03:24 PM
#44
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Re: (PandaHatch)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PandaHatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Supposedly if you use the special terminals they can handle 50 amps...I'm sure the tin-lead is fine. That's what I ordered too. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm assuming your talking about theType XII High Current contacts?? Did you talk to Allied to get the current rating or am I looking at something else? I see on page 110 under series 3 contacts there is a "hgh current" contact but I dont see a current rating.
If this is true I think I'll pick up another one to run my main power wires kind of like your talking about. I have my wires from the battery inside the fender and they go into the cowl and drop into the cabin behind the firewall. I 'd much rather have them going through connectors but I only noticed the ones rater at 25 amps which wasn't enough capacity.
If we're looking at the same thing those are some expensive contacts. $20 per set
I'm assuming your talking about theType XII High Current contacts?? Did you talk to Allied to get the current rating or am I looking at something else? I see on page 110 under series 3 contacts there is a "hgh current" contact but I dont see a current rating.
If this is true I think I'll pick up another one to run my main power wires kind of like your talking about. I have my wires from the battery inside the fender and they go into the cowl and drop into the cabin behind the firewall. I 'd much rather have them going through connectors but I only noticed the ones rater at 25 amps which wasn't enough capacity.
If we're looking at the same thing those are some expensive contacts. $20 per set
01-28-2006, 11:39 AM
#46
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Re: (KP)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KP »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Here is a quick list of part #'s for a 24 pin connector, its the same one i used. Part #'s are allieds p/n not amps
512-8967---24 pin flange mount receptacle.
512-1120---24 pin plug.
You'll notice in the pics on their site they dont include cable clamps. You'll want at least 1 cable clamp for the plug side which will be under the hood. You dont have to have one on the cabin side, its up to you.
512-1265---Small cable clamp
512-1285--Large cable clamp
I used Large cable clamps and they are too big and look like ***. I have the small clamps here and I will install them when I depin the connectors and shrink everything up. I would recommend the small clamps but look at the dimensions of the cable clamps on page 110 and see what ID you'll need. I used all 24 pins with 21 of them being 18 gauge SXL wire and 3 being 16 gauge and the small clamps would have worked.
You'll also want the extractor p/n 512-9140 or your not getting the contacts back out.
Dont need the insertion tool, just push them in until they "click" into place.
I dont know the correct p/n for the crimpers, i didn't use them.
As far as contacts I really cant help with a p/n. You'll have to determine what gauge wiring your using and the insulation OD and which contact finish you'll want. The Series 1 type III+ multimates are the ones you'll want. THey're rated for 7.5 amps which will cover all the sensors, injectors and crap.
You'll more than likely want a hole saw also. </TD></TR></TABLE>
do these come with pins or do you order them seperate? also what type of crimper did you use on these connectors?
512-8967---24 pin flange mount receptacle.
512-1120---24 pin plug.
You'll notice in the pics on their site they dont include cable clamps. You'll want at least 1 cable clamp for the plug side which will be under the hood. You dont have to have one on the cabin side, its up to you.
512-1265---Small cable clamp
512-1285--Large cable clamp
I used Large cable clamps and they are too big and look like ***. I have the small clamps here and I will install them when I depin the connectors and shrink everything up. I would recommend the small clamps but look at the dimensions of the cable clamps on page 110 and see what ID you'll need. I used all 24 pins with 21 of them being 18 gauge SXL wire and 3 being 16 gauge and the small clamps would have worked.
You'll also want the extractor p/n 512-9140 or your not getting the contacts back out.
Dont need the insertion tool, just push them in until they "click" into place.
I dont know the correct p/n for the crimpers, i didn't use them.
As far as contacts I really cant help with a p/n. You'll have to determine what gauge wiring your using and the insulation OD and which contact finish you'll want. The Series 1 type III+ multimates are the ones you'll want. THey're rated for 7.5 amps which will cover all the sensors, injectors and crap.
You'll more than likely want a hole saw also. </TD></TR></TABLE>
do these come with pins or do you order them seperate? also what type of crimper did you use on these connectors?
01-28-2006, 01:22 PM
#47
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those prices on those connectors do not include the pins if you search around some more they sell the pins in packs of 100 but you have the buy both female and male pins
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