MIL Spec Connectors
 

I'm trying to find out a littl emore about these connectors. I have searched everywhere to try to learn more abou tthem, but haven't had any luck. I know a bunch of people on here use them. Basically what I'm doing is making a harness from scratch using Raychem shrink and transitions. I have a full shaved and wire tucked ngine bay and want to pass the harness through the firewall with a custom look. All I would need them for is connecting engine harness to interior harness. I just want to know how the connections are made in the harness and how the contacts are connected, special crimping tool? Other tips for using these, etc. Any type of help is greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Anyone?

Re: (PandaHatch)
 

Are you talking about like db-25 or db-37 connectors. DO a search on those and that should be all you need. I am a network engineer working as a contractor for the air force and those are the 2 main connector we use to attach to equipment and the would probably work awesome for what you want to do.

I don't even know which ones to lok for, I searched online last night for about 2 hours on these. I definitly want to use them, but finding the right ones is the trick. I was reading about what all the numbers mean in the code number for them. Basically I'm passing about 20-25 wires on each side through the firewall.

Re: (PandaHatch)
 

Search for "canon" type connectors. Be aware the real mil-spec parts are very expensive. Plus, while the contact pins aren't too expensive, the tool to crimp them is $$$.

Re: MIL Spec Connectors (PandaHatch)
 

Are you looking for something like this?

http://www.deutschecd.com/index.htm

Yea, I think so at least. I want something where I can connect the interior harness end to the firewall and then just plug the engine harness into it, kinda like a quick disconnect line.

Re: (PandaHatch)
 

BTW, you should not use any "DB"-type connectors. They aren't reliable in an automotive environment.

Re: (PandaHatch)
 

This may not be the style you looking for but its what I used. Someone here posted this link and I ended up using their stuff.
http://www.alliedelec.com/Cata...LVL=A

They offer the metal shell but they start getting expensive (atleast for my budget) after you get everything you need. I used the series 1 and series 3, they're plastic bulkheads but they're quite nice for the price. They recommend the crimping tool but since I only had to do this on one car I just crimped them by hand with a small set of needle nose. It took forever but it was a one time deal. The crimp doesn't look as nice as it could with the proper tool but I gave them quite a good tug and they're not coming loose. You will want the pin extractor or your not getting these turds back out of the connector once they're snapped in.

Re: (KP)
 

What he said ^. Yeah Allied is about the best place for us civilians to get them. Digikey "might" have them.

Thanks for the link, that's more along lines of what I wanted. plastic bulkhead. I'm gonna check that out.

Re: (kb58)
 

Are you really saying they are not reliable in automotive applications. Your crazy. We use them in AWACs airplanes, all the fighters, humvees, mobile command centers and comm vans. There is nothing unreliable about them. The only way I could see a problem is if he ran the connectors in the engine bay exposed to the elements, but hell unless the car went under water it would be fine, plus the tools to make them are a heck of a lot cheaper that the barrel connectors and they can be had at radio shack. If you do use them make sure to use the metal backshells with the proper size grommet. Sounds like a db-25 and a 12 pair cable would be just what you need

I saw the db-25 and it was like a rectangular plug, I'm looking more for like the round bulkhead that you could mount onto the firewall.

Re: (NuRv)
 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NuRv &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Are you really saying they are not reliable in automotive applications. Your crazy. We use them in AWACs airplanes, all the fighters, humvees, mobile command centers and comm vans. There is nothing unreliable about them....</TD></TR></TABLE>

The Air Force will be interested in your point of view, how they were wrong in their investigation on why a certain plane crashed... A DB-25 connector pin had a poor connection. I have first hand knowledge of the incident. DB connectors are trouble waiting to happen. Heck even on my PC they can act up.

While circulars are about the best, even they aren't perfect, nothing is.

That's what I'm trying to find, circulars. Kb58, I saw these in your build up link. Where did you get the circulars at? That's what I'm looking for, the bulkheads, I also need transitions though, for the joints and shirinking them.

http://www.kimini.com/Diaries/2005Sp...ash%20rear.JPG


Modified by PandaHatch at 4:59 PM 3/24/2005

Re: (PandaHatch)
 

http://www.p-r-s.com/

thats one place u can get them... ask for clint

Re: (PandaHatch)
 

Allied is your best bet, followed by Digikey.

Re: (kb58)
 

The link i posted above has the circular connectors with a flange for mounting on the firewall. Here is a pic of the AMP cpc i used. This pic is old and the wiring looks like shit. I was just testing that everything functioned correclty at that point. It was later depinned and everything was heatshrunk and ran to its final place. I dont have a pic of the mounting flange side but I can get one if it'd help.

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/we...MXk1NDE%3D.jpg

Yea, that'd be awesome, that looks just like what I need. Can you get some part numbers too. I need like 3 of those and 1 for 2 10 gauge wires.

Re: (PandaHatch)
 

what are the 10awg wires for?

Power wires. I know what I need now, just don't know how to read out the damn PN's for the connectors.

Re: (PandaHatch)
 

If you are going with the AMP cpc then series 3 is for power. I believe the series 1 pictured above was only rated at around 7amps, its been awhile since i ordered this stuff though but I'm pretty sure they have a low current rating.

What would I you for harness wires, passing through the firewall? Like going to the ECU?

Re: (PandaHatch)
 

There's relatively little current from the ECU to the engine. The injectors will be a couple amps, various solenoids not even that, and all the other sensors will be practically nothing (milliamps.)

So I can get by with the series 1? I'd like to use the plastic to keep the cost down a bit. Any part number on which to order? I need about 25 pin connector and a 15 pin connector or 2 12's and a 15. Suggestions?

BTW, thanks a ton guys for all the help.