Waldron Racing

OK, so I Bought A 92 Integra gsr that had been sitting for a little over 7 years. very nice condition though. I replaced the fuel pump, fuel lines, fuel filter, distributor, ecu, main relay and a few other small items and I've been driving the car for over a month now. The other morning I went to leave for work and the car wouldn't start. The CEL stayed on and the fuel pump would not prime. so I checked later that day after work and sure enough, no spark either. This happened to me 2 weeks ago but when it did, I unplugged the distributor harnesses and plug them back up and she fired instantly. Weird huh? this time that didn't work. I've checked to make sure the main relay is still good along with everything else I could think of. Although when checking the distributor everything seemed fine except for the fact that the resistance on the secondary side of the the coil didn't show anything at all as apposed to being .6-.8 ohms like it should. the Primary was fine and what it should have been. Is it possible that this brand new coil that I got in this brand new distributor has kicked the bucket or am I missing something. I need my car back badly. I'm having to drive the wife's van to work and that's not good. can someone please help me figure out what is going on. I first thought it was due to a wire but now I'm not so sure. I'm totally stumped. Oh and another thing, 1 day prior to this happening the car seemed to stumble if I gave it full throttle. It barely had enough *** to get out of its own way and that's not normal. This thing runs like a scalded dog and can could keep up with my turbo eclipse. Could this have something to do with it? I guess so if the coil was in the process of breaking down right?

Waldron Racing

Really? is everyone as stumped as I am?

el crapitan

check the thermostat housing ground cluster.
also, check the codes. could be a problem with the pcm.

D1g1tZ_253

i have the same issue in my 99 civic ex. i just swapped a new y8 motor in with less than 10k miles and i have no spark and no fuel. i have swapped ecu's and bought a new dizzy and still have nothing. does anyone know what the problem is. i have looked on many forums but no one has ever posted how the car got fixed.

fcm

A bad coil would not prevent the PGM-FI Main Relay working.

So first thing is to check the thermostat ground(s), DO NOT, just eyeball the ground, remove it, clean the contact surfaces, reconnect it.

Is the PGM-FI Main Relay doing anything?

Turn the ign. switch to run, not start, and listen for the relay to make a "click", [fuel injector relay turning on, the fuel pump is not priming so we know you will not hear the second "click", we just need to confirm that the first "click" is there to tell us the PGM-FI Main Relay has a ground and it gets, ign. power when ign. is turned on.

You will also want to check for ign. power at the distributor, black/yellow lead, both the distributor assembly and the PGM-FI Main Relay must have ign. power both when the ign. is in run AND start, check for both.

Also check for that same ign. power at the injectors, wire that is the same color at all 4 injectors, you can unplug the exciter lead at the starter solenoid so engine is not cranking when testing for power in the start mode. 94

Waldron Racing

Ok, ground seems fine though I removed it and cleaned it up anyways. Im getting power to everything, dist, injectors, and relay, but im a little hard of hraring and dont think I hear the click in the relay. I hear a faint click when I turn the key back from its position. The relay is probably only a little over a month old. More input please.

Waldron Racing

I tried another ecu for the hell of it but one that I know dosnt function properly and I got spark and the fuel pump kicked on. Wouldnt start though for whatever is ailling the ecu so....damn. I just dont understand how it could be fine then all of a sudden, this. So now I need another ecu.

fcm

You can "feel" the click.

Grab the PGM-FI Main relay, turn the ign. switch to run.

There should be two (2) clicks, they are very close together so it can sound/feel like one click, the first click is the injector relay turning on, [you should have power at the injectors] the second click would be the fuel pump relay, at the same time the CEL will turn on and the fuel pump will prime for a few sec., [give or take].

There would then be a third click, [fuel pump relay turning off] the fuel pump will stop priming and the CEL will go out, if the bad ECU/ECM triggered the fuel pump relay to turn on and prime the system, even if the car did not start, you know the PGM-FI Main Relay and fuel pump are working, so your probably right, you need a new ECU/ECM.

All it takes for old electronics, [20 year old ECU] to go west is for power to be disconnected and then connected up again. 94

Kevin Kone

Man i sure wish the thousands of no start threads ive read through wouldnt just "die" when the user presumably gives up and brings it to the shop. I have no spark no fuel i can jump the fuel pump to work. My MFR only clicks once not 3 times. Ive tried everything all the test lead me to a new ignition coil which didn't work either. I have power at ecu power at distributor gonna check for power at injectors but when i "jump my fuel pump" i can here the injectors flooding the engine. ??? If only every thread on this site didn't die half way throu the problem. Im not giving up so if you can help me id appreciate it.

fcm

Sounds like a bad ECU/ECM, jumping the fuel pump should not flood the cylinders, the ECU/ECM must be keeping the injectors open, or you have a short to ground on the injector pulse lead(s).

The first click you hear from the PGM-FI Main Relay is the fuel injector relay turning on, the second click would be the fuel pump relay turning on, the 3rd would be the fuel pump relay turning off after priming, keep in mind the first two clicks are very close together and can sound like one click.

Are you sure you have power at both IGP1 and IGP2 at ECU/ECM, [power is supplied by the fuel injector relay]

Kevin Kone

pardon my ignorance but i can't figure out what the IGP1 and IGP2 is? Im guessing its the ignition plug? this is my first acura im more of a subaru guy but always willing to learn.

fcm

IGP1 and IGP2 are 12V+ inputs, [signsls] to the ECU/ECM, they are supplied power from the fuel injector relay in the PGM-FI Main Relay, both must have power when ign. switch is in the run and start positions.

On most Honda/Acura IGP1 and IGP2 wire color is the same as the fuel injector power leads and will be the only two leads of that color at the ECU/ECM. 94

Kevin Kone

So i tested igp1 and igp2 they have power. On my buddys advice i got the wiring diagram for my car and tested all the wires to do with the distributor. while Testing i discovered a rusted connector without the weather protection it would normally have. I tested for continuity and nothing so im getting pretty excited looking forward to my trip to the wreckers to get the new plug. I figure ill put the car back together and try and wiggle the wire while starting it and see if i can get it to fire........Get my GF to start it and poof completely dead.(no crank no nothing) Battery reads 12.5 volts in the I postion the car doors beep strong in the II position i get zero dash lights and in the III postion i get a very faint dash light or 2. the dome light stays on strong but gets weaker as i go thru the key positions.

What the hell did i do???

fcm

Start by checking your main grounds, batt. to chassis and chassis to engine, disconnect/clean/reconnect, DO NOT just eyeball them.94