Should i go tweeters or components?
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Should i go tweeters or components?
well my stock speakers blew out a few days ago ( What a surprise ) and I was wondering what would be the best to go with, Tweeters or components? I m sick of only hearing bass hits. everytime my sub hits hard i can't hear the words. I don't want to do this white trash only the most clean and professional approach. so please tell me your opinion on what I should do. Thank you.
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Spend the extra money and go with components. Worst case scenario you can run a moderate set off of HU power until you upgrade to an external amplifier. When you get an amplifier you'll probably crap your pants, but it will be well worth the crapping of the pants.
So a quick answer - components.
So a quick answer - components.
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Re: Should i go tweeters or components? ('Accord Ex')
Tweeters are $30-80. There is almost no added sound quality with these.
Components and amp w/wiring are $200(used)-$400(new good quality). This is the only way to add quality sound. Sell some baseball cards or something cause you'll appreciate the components.
Components and amp w/wiring are $200(used)-$400(new good quality). This is the only way to add quality sound. Sell some baseball cards or something cause you'll appreciate the components.
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Don't bother with tweeters imho. Either go all out and buy a nice set of components, or go with a decent set of regular speakers.
I have all Alpine type-r gear in my car... with the sub turned off, I have the fronts/rears running a high pass of 125hz (tuned to match the cutoff with the sub) w/ a 4x75 RMS amp. I had to turn the gains way down especially on the front, but its worth it, they sound great and if you want it loud they will do it with ease...
Now ok this is a budget set up not fit for audiophiles or competition, but I'm happy with it. Add the 12" type-r sub in a ported qlogic box and you can be just like me .
I have all Alpine type-r gear in my car... with the sub turned off, I have the fronts/rears running a high pass of 125hz (tuned to match the cutoff with the sub) w/ a 4x75 RMS amp. I had to turn the gains way down especially on the front, but its worth it, they sound great and if you want it loud they will do it with ease...
Now ok this is a budget set up not fit for audiophiles or competition, but I'm happy with it. Add the 12" type-r sub in a ported qlogic box and you can be just like me .
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Re: (tazeat)
so i need to get a seperate amp for my components. If so how many watts do i need. I want to take out four of my old stock speakers and put the components in. Im going for best quality!
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Re: Should i go tweeters or components? ('Accord Ex')
First, what year is your Accord?
I agree with the above, mostly, Components and more mower for them is definitely the way to go for better SQ.
What is the make and model of the sub(s) and amp driving them?
It is obvious that if "everytime my sub hits hard i can't hear the words" that the system is unbalanced, a 3:1 ratio of sub bass to high-pass is the "golden ratio"
Normally you would total the RMS wattage of the high-pass, triple that for the sub system, EG; if you have a 4x75W amp driving the high-pass, you would be looking at a 1x300W sub system.
In your case you would just work backwards.
At this point I would recommend the Eclipse SP6510 speakers, front and rear...
http://www.eclipse-web.com/point/sp6910_6510.html as they will fit without mods, the JL Audio 300/4 or the new 300/4v2...
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/prod...d=437
Disable/remove the tweeters and x-overs on the rear speakers, [you do not want tweeters behind you] wire the rear speakers in series and connect them to the bridged rear channels of the amp run them low-pass and set amps x-over at around 5000Hz, run the front speakers on high-pass as low as they will go but under 100Hz.
One more thing, whatever speakers you get for the rear and whether you use an off board amp or HU power to drive them, they need to be isolated from the sub or they will just be passive radiators to the sub bass, the easy fix is to cover the backs of the rear speakers with Dynamat, [or the like] to keep the sub pressure from actuating the rear speaker cones. 94
Modified by fcm at 10:48 AM 5/18/2008
I agree with the above, mostly, Components and more mower for them is definitely the way to go for better SQ.
What is the make and model of the sub(s) and amp driving them?
It is obvious that if "everytime my sub hits hard i can't hear the words" that the system is unbalanced, a 3:1 ratio of sub bass to high-pass is the "golden ratio"
Normally you would total the RMS wattage of the high-pass, triple that for the sub system, EG; if you have a 4x75W amp driving the high-pass, you would be looking at a 1x300W sub system.
In your case you would just work backwards.
At this point I would recommend the Eclipse SP6510 speakers, front and rear...
http://www.eclipse-web.com/point/sp6910_6510.html as they will fit without mods, the JL Audio 300/4 or the new 300/4v2...
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/prod...d=437
Disable/remove the tweeters and x-overs on the rear speakers, [you do not want tweeters behind you] wire the rear speakers in series and connect them to the bridged rear channels of the amp run them low-pass and set amps x-over at around 5000Hz, run the front speakers on high-pass as low as they will go but under 100Hz.
One more thing, whatever speakers you get for the rear and whether you use an off board amp or HU power to drive them, they need to be isolated from the sub or they will just be passive radiators to the sub bass, the easy fix is to cover the backs of the rear speakers with Dynamat, [or the like] to keep the sub pressure from actuating the rear speaker cones. 94
Modified by fcm at 10:48 AM 5/18/2008
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