klnteg

Hey guys,

I have a 95 SRV all stock. 334XXXkms recently the idle would go really low then it would come back up. Example is when I stop at a light. push the clutch in and coast to a stop. Then it would drop when I stopped to about 200rpms the back up to about 500rpms. Now when I push the clutch in and cost it will stall out. I just cleaned the IACV screen and wiped out the Throttle body. And it still does the same thing. Should I be adjusting the idle screw next?

Remiss

I would try the idle screw ...

but stalling from idle could mean bad oil pressure among other things

check the oil pressure first ... honda without oil pressure = very bad

klnteg

I did some research and found that the EGR gets really dirty, so I cleaned it and helped. So no more stalling, for now.

codyh

O cool cool. I am having a very similar problem.

nus_dogg

Mine does the same too! Man, I hated it.

I did a EGR delete on mine. I'mma try to clean out the EGR ports in the IM.

Dr@Gone

Iv'e got a [B]95 srv[/B] as well but i had to clean out the egr for emissions purposes. not cause it was stalling out. But now iv'e got a vacume leak somewhere has any one had the same problem? I looked at buying a new vaume line control pump but its like $360 so im going to the yard to grab one there but before i do so looking for ideas?

"The problem"
When i first start the car it revs to 3rpms for 3 seconds then drops to 1 and back up and down from 3 to 1 till its warmed up once its warmed up its from 2500 to 1 and up and down when the clutch is in and when its in nutral.. It sucks my Ba115. And another problem is the clutch im not sure if its related but when the clutch is to the floor it makes a zzzz noise and wont let me shift. when i pull the clutch away from the floor a bit its all good so wtf please help me out

,cheers

klnteg

Dr@gone. I am not sure what your problem is? If you have a vaccumm leak then go over your hoses very carefully. Do you have an engine light on?

As far as your clutch goes check the tranny fluid. Mine shifted hard and was stuck the odd time too and it ended up being low on fliud in the tranny. You may have air in your clutch line? You might have to re-bleed with new fluid.

My EGR was really bad!! the holes were almost halfway restricted. I had to scrape out the carbon build up in the EGR.

Dr@Gone

Theres no engine light on. Ive just printed off a diagram for the vacume lines and gonna check over it. Hopefully its just a leak somewhere. I did the same I used a plastic brush and carb cleaner my nitrogen was high on the emissions and it brought it down to more than half. I'll check the fluid on the tranny and update.

Cheers

WifesVTEC

I had surging idle in my H22A1 prelude. Went from 1k to 2500 up and down....then progressed to hitting higher and higher marks above 3k.

Check your "fast idle thermo valve" (may be listed as thermal valve" Remove intake exposing throttle body. 2 holes on back side interior. bottom hole should NOT flow air after engine is warmed up. That was MOST of my problem. Also had a vacuum leak from poor seal on intake manifold.

nus_dogg

So the EGR was the culprit for this cause? Mine drops low as well and picks itself back up to 1.3K rpm. Especially when its at cold start up, it'll drop to like 200rpm where it'll almost stall itself out and goes back up to 1.1K RPM. Even when I use my A/C it goes pretty low.

Dr@Gone

So while the car was running I unplugged the constant air control valve and no difference in iddle then unplugged the intake control solenoid and no difference. Checked hoses for leaks and there seems to be none... This is bull. Where to start next? and how am i to tell if either is working properly?

nus_dogg

Thats really weird. There should be a drop in idle when you unplug the IACV or FITV on a stock H22 TB.

Dr@Gone

Yeah so wtf? I took of the intake air duct and saw there was a little bit of dust in there. So im thinking that the dirt might off got into the lower port for the fast iddle **** but not to sure how it works i know that its open when the car is cold and closed when its warm. so im thinking I should check that next but what difference would that make for the iddle going up and down?

klnteg

Could be bad vaccumm from the EGR?

Dr@Gone

I got a check list for the vacume lines/ problem but its for an 01 lude. Probable not much difference!

PRIMARY HEATED OXYGEN SENSOR (PRIMARY HO2S) (SENSOR 1)
SECONDARY HEATED OXYGEN SENSOR (SECONDARY HO2S) (SENSOR 2)
MANIFOLD ABSOLUTE PRESSURE (MAP) SENSOR
ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE (ECT) SENSOR
INTAKE AIR TEMPERATURE (IAT) SENSOR
CRANKSHAFT POSITION/TOP DEAD CENTER (CKP/TDC) SENSOR
KNOCK SENSOR (KS)
IDLE AIR CONTROL (IAC) VALVE
IDLE AIR CONTROL (IAC) VALVE
FAST IDLE THERMO VALVE
IDLE ADJUSTING SCREW
Fuel Injector
Fuel Filter
FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR
(FP)
Fuel Tank
AIR CLEANER
RESONATOR
INTAKE CONTROL CHECK VALVE
INTAKE CONTROL VACUUM TANK
INTAKE CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE
INTAKE CONTROL DIAPHRAGM
INTAKE AIR BYPASS (IAB) CHECK VALVE
INTAKE AIR BYPASS (IAB) VACUUM TANK
INTAKE AIR BYPASS (IAB) CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE
INTAKE AIR BYPASS (IAB) CONTROL DIAPHRAGM
EXHAUST GAS RECIRCULATION (EGR) CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE
EXHAUST GAS RECIRCULATION (EGR) VALVE and LIFT SENSOR
POSITIVE CRANKCASE VENTILATION (PCV) VALVE
EVAPORATIVE EMISSION PURGE CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE
PURGE JOINT
EVAPORATIVE EMISSION CONTROL CANISTER
EVAPORATIVE EMISSION (EVAP) BYPASS SOLENOID VALVE
EVAPORATIVE EMISSION CONTROL CANISTER FILTER
EVAPORATIVE EMISSION CONTROL CANISTER VENT SHUT VALVE Fuel tank pressure sensor
EVAPORATIVE EMISSION (EVAP) TWO WAY VALVE
ONBOARD REFUELING VAPOR RECOVERY (ORVR) VENT SHUT VALVE
ONBOARD REFUEUNG VAPOR RECOVERY (ORVR) VAPOR RECIRCULATION VALVE
THREE WAY CATALYTIC CONVERTER (TWC)


Read more: http://www.justanswer.com/questions/...#ixzz0qVHXKr8x

Dr@Gone

I just pulled it off 3 weeks ago and cleaned it right out! I was reading on the form where i got the check list and the guy was talking about a spray that makes the engine rev up if theres a leak but it was a miss print any ideas?

Dr@Gone

so the problem was the fast idle thermo valve thanks too WifesVTEC it was the first part I looked at it didnt clear the problem totally it still surges when its getting warmed up i might have to tighten it down some more.
Thanks for all the advice!!

minilogoguy18

Your idle seems high and if your idle drops with electronic load increase you have a bad IACV, even if you don't get a CEL for it, that only comes on when the ECU can't detect one at all.

tegra1027

I just took apart everything ( TB, IACV, thermal valve...i think) and cleaned everything out. It doesnt stall now, but the idle fluctuated like crazy. even when im coasting which means the whole car is fluctuating its speed. Any Ideas? Please help!!!

minilogoguy18

You probably have caused a vacuum leak at this point, did you replace all o-rings and the tb gasket before reassembling?

tegra1027

ill check for vacuum leakes. I did not replace them but i inspected them and i used a sealent on them also. they all looked to be ok.

nus_dogg

Nah, Thats cause I'm rocking the Skunk2 Pro2 cams. Too aggressive to be idling at 700-800rpm.