civicseth

Ok, I picked up some rear brakes from my friend with a Civic EX that had rear disks with ABS. The ABS wire is cut, I don't need ABS hookup, as I don't have it on my car.

I got the entire trailing arms, control arms, and hubs. The rear trailing arm bushings are trash on the swap I purchased, so I'm going to attempt to keep my current trailing arms and swap over the hub assembly.

The question I have is:

Will I need the proportioning valve off of the ABS car? I would think it would be safer to use my current proportioning valve than one which uses the ABS. The valve off of the donor car looks much different and smaller than the one currently on my car and has different mounting spots for the hard brake lines. Would it be ok to maintain my current valving?


I have the ebrake cables off of the donor car just in case they are different, but I believe they should be the same, since they are off of the same chassis, so can I keep my ebrake cables that are on my car? Will I have to replace the brake master cylinder?

ANY help for this swap will be greatly appreciated, because I'm about to attempt this tonight/this weekend, and I'm trying to decide if I should try to get it done now, or wait when I have a few helping hands.


I searched on Honda-Tech, but this exact swap was never documented.

civicseth

Up up up. I'm going to be replacing the Rear Trailing Arm bushing with Energy Suspension ones, but I still need to know about the E-brake cables, and the proportioning valve. I haven't seen much of anything about this setup on here before.

JohnnysEG

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civicseth &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The question I have is:

Will I need the proportioning valve off of the ABS car?

^^ I used integra brakes when i did my swap like 2-3 yrs ago, and it also was off an ABS vehicle. I didn't ever replace the proportioning valve! My brakes made a huge difference to me, but some would say it doesn't and you should replace the valve!

Would it be ok to maintain my current valving?

^^ I would personally think so because i just got rid of my foor door like 3 wks ago and the brakes still worked fine and stopped sooo much better than the stock dx ones!

Will I have to replace the brake master cylinder?

^^ No, you DON'T HAVE TO, but it would help some yes with the pedal feel and stopping power.

ANY help for this swap will be greatly appreciated, because I'm about to attempt this tonight/this weekend, and I'm trying to decide if I should try to get it done now, or wait when I have a few helping hands.
</TD></TR></TABLE>


Well i had my bro helpin me cause the rear trailing arm gets heavy tryin to bolt it back up...anyway hope this helps and Good Luck with the swap!

floored4door

my rear disc was off a teg with ABS. I didn't change anything else. The prop valve and res are still what came with my car. Only issue that I had was the ebrake lines were slightly shorter and dont mount up in the exact same places. I just zip tied them to be secure. I do recommend another set of hands tho as stated above, those suckers are pretty heavy, or another floor jack to help hold them up. Other wise I have had zero problems. Car also stops terrific.

asiandoood

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civicseth &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

The question I have is:

Will I need the proportioning valve off of the ABS car? I would think it would be safer to use my current proportioning valve than one which uses the ABS. The valve off of the donor car looks much different and smaller than the one currently on my car and has different mounting spots for the hard brake lines. Would it be ok to maintain my current valving?


I have the ebrake cables off of the donor car just in case they are different, but I believe they should be the same, since they are off of the same chassis, so can I keep my ebrake cables that are on my car? Will I have to replace the brake master cylinder?

</TD></TR></TABLE>


People will tell you that you wont need a prop valve. I would say it is a better setup as the factory setup is built for drum brakes. I used the 40/40 valve from the 90-93 Integra. Bolts right up.

For e-brake cables, mine came off the 94-01 3 door Integra. The lines were about 1-2 inches short. I had to really tug on it to make it work on the EG 4 door. I recommend getting 4 door Integra e-brake lines as they may be longer and easier to bolt up. As of now, my current ghetto install still isnt as great. My car rolls on steep hills

Brake Master Cylinder is recommended if you are upgrading the front brakes to Integra also. Im using the bigger caliper and rotors in front as well as the discs in the rear. I didnt upgrade to the Integra MC, but used the specific 1991 Civic EX Sedan Master Cylinder which is a 15/16 size. With this MC, you dont need to upgrade the booster as it bolts right up to your factory one. Pedal feel will be better. If you can afford the Integra MC and Booster, I'd recommend that route as the brakes will perform very well with the 1 inch MC.

HTH

civicseth

Well, the brakes I got are off the exact same car as mine, same chassis, so shouldn't I be able to use my current e-brake cables? Either way, I have the e-brake cables off of the rear disk EG8.

So it's 'better' if I get another proportioning valve, but it's not completely necessary to run a safe braking system? I have the prop. valve off of the ABS EG8 that I got the brakes from, but would the fact that it is off of an ABS car affect the correct proportioning of the brake fluid?


Currently on my car(non-abs rear drums):




This is what my friend gave me as the prop. valve. Is this what I need, and if so, how does it hook up?

instrument

don't use what you took a picture of.

if you want to do it safely you need a prop valve off of a non abs integra..

i got mine from a dc.

it HAS to be non abs, and it will look exactly the same as the one you circled and put PV over top of.

you don't hook any abscomponent up to your non abs civic.

master cylinder, porpotioner, etc. everything should be non abs.

you can skip on the master cylinder for now...but get to a junkyard and get a non abs porportioner.

good luck, i did mine on my own, the only hard part was working with floor jacks..as always.

civicseth

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by instrument &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">don't use what you took a picture of.

if you want to do it safely you need a prop valve off of a non abs integra..

i got mine from a dc.

it HAS to be non abs, and it will look exactly the same as the one you circled and put PV over top of.

you don't hook any abscomponent up to your non abs civic.

master cylinder, porpotioner, etc. everything should be non abs.

you can skip on the master cylinder for now...but get to a junkyard and get a non abs porportioner.

good luck, i did mine on my own, the only hard part was working with floor jacks..as always.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Awesome, that's what I was wanting to know. Sounds like I just need to pick one of these up, swap out the RTA bushings, and I'm set to go. Appreciate all the help.

asiandoood

as already said,

do not use the ABS prop valve. The prop valve I swapped over was the 90-93 Integra, which looks exactly like the factory DX one only the proportion is 40/40 stamped on the valve.

MC if going with Integra must be the non ABS Integra RS or the ITR. ITR will need rebending and reflaring.

civicseth

Sounds like a plan. DA integra w/out ABS.

Is there anyway possible to use my current trailing arms that I have now with the disks, instead of trying to replace the bushings?