Sundown

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Luserkid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yea whenever i do swaps (96-00) for people and they want to keep it legal (BAR in cali) everything has to be from an SI (mounts, linkage, etc). </TD></TR></TABLE>

oops didnt see he was from cali

Luserkid, would you happen to know any information on #25 bolt on that diagram? thread, size, if there is a similar one somewhere on the car, so forth?

Luserkid

There should be 2 #25s but that picture only shows 1. Its a 8mm x 1.25mm x 30mm i believe. Not sure on the lenght. But 8 x 1.25 is the thread pitch and size.

MKBrandao4

Okay love the write up, I'm soon getting an Eg but its automatic deff should be a project car. My question is if i did buy a b18 motor from another car thats manual could i just take out the ecu, engine,tranny and the wirring harness. Instead of going through all the trouble soldering wires together. Probably a dumb question but was searching the site couldn't find an answer.

LadyCivic_ej8

Dang!! I've been wondering what's involed in converting my Auto to Stick. Great info!!

97Ej6mike

Cheers!

Sundown

i used a less conventional method for removing the heat shield.......





Modified by Sundown at 11:45 AM 9/24/2007

xSKEETx

i was just wondering where ur shop is located..
im interested in doing the auto to manual swap..

directions please
thanx

http://profile.myspace.com/ind...15924

jdmeg6hatchy

WOW! one of the best FAQs around!

ClikHonda

iTrader: (1)

bumppp

IW92

Great FAQ write up

ChadB

great write up.

Iceman05

DO NOT forget the bolt that goes from the top of the clutch pedal assembly to the chassis... It is hard to see and you will miss it if you are not looking for it. I did not see it and only installed the two nuts that held the master cylinder/clutch assembly to the firewall. My pedal had so much flex that it never fully disengaged the clutch during shifts. It made the car unbearable to drive and caused 3 blown clutches, a transmission, and 8 months of my time. It is probably the most important single bolt in the whole conversion.

lowfast

Nice write up

obligatory

great guide, it's been of much use!

I am pretty much done gathering everything I need to do this swap on my 96' civic EX, however I am still not very clear on the whole Intake Manifold/Throttle Body issue.

Is it 100% absolutely necessary that I replace these when I swap?
Could someone please sum it up for me?

I've read the luser's full guide probably 3 times through and read the 10 pages of posts twice through.
I simply don't want to spend that much more money if I don't have to.

Also, here is my swaps project thread:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/2177326

Luserkid

I am pretty sure this has been mentioned plenty of times but no you do not have to run a manual intake manifold. Manual TB you do however have to. For the auto manifold you would just need to drill 2 holes and tap another hole for the IAC.

obligatory

a 99-00 ex IM would work for my 96 ex right?

Luserkid

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by obligatory &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">a 99-00 ex IM would work for my 96 ex right?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Just plug the injector air holes and your set.

sicones

yes but the 4 air injection holes above each fuel injector needs to be blocked off, you can get it welded or use JB weld

/\/\/\ beat me to it

edit: if you respond to your pms I could possibly help you

obligatory

awesome, this may not be so bad after all

I found one with everything on it for like 30 bucks and its local

obligatory

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Iceman05 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">DO NOT forget the bolt that goes from the top of the clutch pedal assembly to the chassis... It is hard to see and you will miss it if you are not looking for it. I did not see it and only installed the two nuts that held the master cylinder/clutch assembly to the firewall. My pedal had so much flex that it never fully disengaged the clutch during shifts. It made the car unbearable to drive and caused 3 blown clutches, a transmission, and 8 months of my time. It is probably the most important single bolt in the whole conversion.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Alright, you've got my attention, but I only see the two master cylinder bolts on my clutch pedal bracket. Also cant tell much from this picture:



I'm half way through this swap, finishing up today hopefully, so if anyone could elaborate (size of bolt, anything really) that would be cool

Luserkid

First picture thats circled there is a slot:



The bolt goes through there and into a threaded piece thats located in the circled area:



If you move the clutch pedal around when its in youll see it.

JDM_CRX_PLEASE

so i think ive figured it out.. for my 97HX motor to work with my 00 DX chassi. i need a 99-00 HX,EX,or SI engine harness. and a obd2b-2a harness and plug up the HX ecu. and i should be set right? also are any of the 99-00 5 speed ex,si,or hx harness dizzy plug gonna be differ from the 97 hx dizzy? cause i mathed up my dx 00 AT harness and the plugs dont fit..

Luserkid

JDM_CRX: You want 99-00 HX harness, use your distributor from the pervious motor and your set. Make sure you have a 99-00 HX ecu.

Another thing you could do is still swap the dist and use your stock harness, wire in the extra plugs you need (VTEC, KS, EGR) and get a 99-00 HX ecu.

obligatory

My project is now complete
I posted a thread about the cost, tools, and general tips of this conversion right here on h-t.

edit:
link was wrong
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2189516

Special thanks to luserkid for getting me started on this conversion!


Modified by obligatory at 10:17 AM 1/3/2008

JDM_CRX_PLEASE

so i cant use the 97 HX ecu? wouldnt it cost moreto buy a 99-00 ECU rather than gettin a jumpr harness?