So I have a 2004 Honda Accord LX ( V6 ) with about 100K miles. While driving today the TCS light/a harzard looking light/check engine light all came on at the and the engine began hesitating. After coming to a complete stop , the car was very very slow to accelerate. I had to pull over because I was slowing traffic. When I turned the engine off and then back on the TCS/hazard looking light were off but the check engine light remained - but the car ran fine. Has anyone has this same experience and if so what the heck is going on?
You had an intermittent failure of some kind that causes the car to run funny. May have been bad enough to put the ECU into limp mode.
When you shut it off, it reset everything and the problem did not re-occour. The check engine light is still on to tell you that there was a problem and OBD codes were generated. This light will stay on until you have someone check the ECU with a code reader and then clear the codes. If the problem returns, the lights will come back on.
The local auto parts store will check the codes for you. You should write them down and come back on here and google the numbers specifically for Hondas. Some code numbers are generic, and some mean different things for different brands. The parts guy can only tell you their generic meaning.
They typically will not clear the codes for you, but they should let you do it yourself. Some consider this cheating emissions, but clearing codes is always to the 1st step in diagnosing a problem. This is so you can see if they come back again.
that's probably the "Limp Mode" OP... it means pull over to a safe place and do not keep driving, take to a dealer/shop asap.
Originally Posted by MSchu
Originally Posted by Ross
I'm sure you're right, but the conspiracy theorist in me thinks that this whole thing feels a lot like an attempt to whitewash the entire affair and give President Ch--I mean, President Bush II some more plausible deniability, with the obvious goal of warming the nation up to their imminent President Bush III.
Accelerator pedal position sensor is my guess. Mine went bad at about 170k and would cause those problems intermittently and more frequently over time until it became necessary to replace it. It's a simple bolt-on part.
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