boostdvic

Since the last follow up, Ive replaced the Ignition switch, but didn't seem to fix the problem even though through diagnosis the old one was bad...idk

My main relay is fine, checked for continuity b/w terminals multiple times...although now I don't hear the fuel pump prime for 2 seconds and I don't have spark. CEL stays on steady and my tachometer needle jumps around??? I've been doing tests at the distributor for signs of a bad wire, but im unsure still

I can't express the amount of aggravation this mysterious problem is giving me. I start somewhere and then something new happens like for example... not even hearing the FP prime anymore.

I jump the 2 pin connector to check for codes and the light doesnt blink at all...code 0?
I bought the new ecu with s300 and I can't even get the program for my computer to run right?

any ideas? Could it possibly be my ecu?

Former User

Clean the G101 ground connection with a wire brush and sand paper until it has a shiny metallic sheen.

boostdvic

cleaned g101 ground, valve cover ground, and ground wire to tranny case....still crank, but no start.

Former User

Is the problem still intermittent or does the engine now never start? For the latter, do all tests mentioned in post #17.

boostdvic

It doesn't start, just cranks...I will do the tests at the ECU and report back with the results. I appreciate the help

Former User

It also would be a good idea to give us an update on the current problem.

1) Does the fuel pump prime?

2) Is there bright white spark at all 4 spark plugs?

3) When the key is turned from off to ON(II), does the CEL remain on steady or turn off after 2 seconds?

4) If 1-3 are fine, does the engine start with starting fluid? Are the plug wires installed in the correct firing order on the distributor cap? Have you checked the mechanical timing and compression tested the cylinders?

boostdvic

Update!

I'm getting continuity at (unplugged) ecu terminals A23, A24, A26, and B2

Not getting a battery voltage reading at (unplugged) ecu terminals A25 and B1 with key on (II)

With the ecu plugged back in, I turn the key to on (II) and do not hear the fuel pump prime and the CEL stays on steady.

Compression Test results at WOT, cranked 7x
...#1-180 psi
...#2-200 psi
...#3-195 psi
...#4-195 psi

Not seeing white bright spark from spark plugs

Former User

This^ is the problem and the reason your engine won't start.

Start by:

1) Double checking whether 15A hood fuse 31 or 15A dash fuse 24 is blown.

2) Testing and resoldering the main relay.

3) Testing the Yel/Blk wire for continuity between the main relay plug and A25 and B1.

boostdvic

Double checked the fuses and the 15 amp fuse under the dash was blown...

Check engine light goes off after 2 seconds and I can hear the fuel pump running...Now I'm facing a hard start...it takes either to get it to run, but only runs for about 5 seconds then shuts off....I watch the RPM's go up to about 1500 then back to 0

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

boostdvic

The main relay is fairly new...the old one had corrosion

Tested yel/black wire for continuity at A25 and B1 terminals...results are no continuity
....only reading continuity at A26 A23 A24

boostdvic

disregard my last post....I read continuity at A25 and B1 terminals...I had the one lead at the main relay on the black wire with yellow stripe instead of the yellow wire with black stripe.

tested main relay to to be sure and everything checks out

Do you think I need to advance my timing with the 440 injectors? I already have the new ecu with S300 and base map for the 440's.

eingman

i would prolly do the lock cylinder its a cheap fix and it might work

boostdvic

I have a brand new ignition switch in from Advance Auto Parts

One thing that seems odd is my tach needle (aftermarket auto light tach) bounces back to the middle of the shift light box when I turn on the ignition (II) ...I have a picture of it on page 1.

Former User

The picture is too small for anybody to see.

Leland

Any new information on this? I believe i'm having the same problems. I am getting no power to the fuel pump. I resoldered the main relay and did the test on it and it tested well. I will be going through each and every other step outlined here. Hopefully figure it out. What was the test at the map sensor to see if the ecu is bad??? What should I do, test for 5v with ignition on???

bge9198

Having similar issues with my 92'. However my car does not crank at all. I turn the key to on and see the CEL light come on while the fuel pump is priming and then shut off around 2 seconds later. When I turn the key, I hear a clicking noise but no start. The problem is intermittent and seems to be worse when the temperature is cooler. I have tested for continuity for the ignition switch and everything checked out. Cleaned and tightened the ground next to the thermostat. The main relay has been replaced as well. My friend is having the exact same problem with his, He even went ahead and replaced the ignition switch. Mine has gotten to the point that it rarely ever starts. I'm thinking the clue of cooler temperatures could suggest a cracked solder somewhere but I'm not sure where to look. I'm stumped and desperate at this point.

PS, when the car does start it runs 100% fine.

DumpdEJ6

Have a friend tap the starter while you hold the key in the start position. It sounds like the starter is going...if it won't start until he starts tapping, then that's your problem.

bge9198

Hmm didn't even think about the starter. Just ran a seperate line to the battery and the starter worked just fine.

SiWannabe

Just for clarification, when you say you replaced the ignition switch, do you mean the assembly?? Did it include the white plastic directly opposite from the key held on with two screws and soldered to a subharness? If it did, sorry to waste your time, but if not..... I've seen a few of those go bad. In both cases, I grabbed one from a low mileage car in a junkyard and solved some pretty crazy issues. Took me FOREVER to diagnose the first time.

Hope that helps.

-Greg

bge9198

Yep, that's it. I took mine apart and checked the parts that are usually wasted away over the years. While it was slightly dirty, not much of the actual material was missing. So I cleaned it and stuck it back in to no avail. I have determined that if everything is working fine from the key down past the main relay, it must be one of the wires in the harness that has a short. I'm not entirely sure though...

fgb000

Hi, please will a 92/95 civic ignition switch harness fit on a 96/00 civic and vice versa?
Are they interchangeable? Is it the same harnesses for civics sedan from 92 to 00?
Thanks.