superfuji57

Ok, before, my SC61 was leaking oil and not boosting. I took the turbo to a local guy who sent it off to some place in Utah who is supposedly a distributor for Garrett and other manufacturers. Almost $500 later I get it back looking brand new and they said they did some machine work and replaced the cartridge? I'm not exactly sure and the voicemail is no longer in my box.

Now, the guy I took it to has been known to be pretty reliable among locals. He seemed like a good guy as well.

I'm running out of ideas, though. All hoses and clamps are secure. Boost isn't coming out of the wastegate. I can't find any big vaccuum leaks or anything. Runs well w/o boost noticably on all cylinders.....JUST NO BOOST.



EDIT:

Setup is an Inlinepro mani
SC61
Tial 35mm wg
Tial BOV
Precisions 750cc injectors
Hondata Stage 4b

Edit2: Now there's oil coming out of the compressor housing again


Modified by superfuji57 at 1:08 AM 7/17/2006

superfuji57

The only thing was the thin rubber ring that's usually in the compressor housing wasn't there. Does that make any difference? My boost guage shows normal vaccuum, but never gets to 0.

superfuji57

Just finished driving the car around town trying not to cry. The brake pedal would not hold pressure, so obviously there is a leak somewhere.

I checked all the hoses and nothing appeared cracked or anything. I have a GE Vaccuum block tapped into the brake mc line. I'll rip everything apart tomorrow and hopefully find the culprit.

SL0WEGG

There is def a leak if the break pedal is not holding pressure. Good luck! That rubber seal should be in the compressor housing. As far as i believe thats what seals it up, without it i was assume there would be a leak when trying to get into boost.

superfuji57

Thanks. I know it seems like a cheap fix, but would I be able to use high temp silicone gasket? Or where would I be able to get the ring itself?

superfuji57

Still haven't gotten around to tearing everything apart

crucian

You might want to break the turbo down and check to see if all seals are there. If I were you, for $500 I would have bought a brand new turbo for a hundred dollars more.

superfuji57

The idle is actually fairly steady.

superfuji57

I know, it's a long story, but I needed the turbo back ASAP and $410 is what i paid exactly.

HiProfile

He basicly got a new turbo. If the wheel was balanced, the new chra basicly means its like-new. The wheel/shaft/housings are rarely what wears. Try making your own leak-tester. I like taking 2 fitting clean-out adapters (female threaded PVC, one end is same size as 1.5" pipe), then both with plugs. Add in a fitting to pressurize the piping, and maybe a pressure gauge. Put them on the TB and turbo outlet coupler, and slather all joints with soapy water.

blackcivic44

whats chra?

something like center housing rotating assembly?

superfuji57

UGHHH OMG WTF ASLDKJASDLJ BBQ

So I was trying to look for a vacuum leak in anything that was tapped from the brake booster because the brake pedal would not hold any pressure and sink to the floor. Weird thing was when I had a leak (forgot to plug a hose) the brake pedal was stiff. After fixing the leak, pedal is soft again.

Anyway, I finally started to take apart the intercooler piping and WHAT THE expletive low and behold oil coming out of the compressor AGAIN. The turbo was practically brand new (in my eyes) and the only driving that was done were a few test drives....

Is this the rebuilders fault or mine? Before the turbo took a **** the first time I had daily driven the car for almost two years. Nothing much has changed. What gives?

superfuji57

I don't have a catch can, does that matter?

Dartanian

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by superfuji57 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I don't have a catch can, does that matter?</TD></TR></TABLE>

No. It just sounds like a shoddy rebuild job to me.

JSpin

this is probably a long shot, but on an inline pro setup i put together some time ago i didn't tighten the wastegate bolts down enough and they backed out after the intial test run. i stared at the motor for like 15min before i figured it out and felt like a total dumb ***.

also, what gaskets are you using in your manifold/turbo/wg?

good luck

superfuji57

WG bolts were definitely tight. No gasket b/w turbo -mani

I have a little boost now, but I'm sure it has something to do with this oil problem

JSpin

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by superfuji57 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">WG bolts were definitely tight. No gasket b/w turbo -mani</TD></TR></TABLE>


well i got nothin on this one man.....keep ya head up

superfuji57

There wasn't much oil when I took the compressor housing off. Could it just be the oil getting backed up?

Is there anything I can look for that would indicate a bad rebuild?


Modified by superfuji57 at 5:02 AM 7/17/2006

HiProfile

If you overspin a turbo, the common results are destruction of the seals/bearings, or a comp/turbing wheel breaking off. The way you overspin the turbo is by letting it spin in free air (have no piping on it, or a huge boost leak).

<U>Did you ever do a leak-test of the charge piping? You should leak-test the turbo housing too.</U>

superfuji57

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HiProfile &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you overspin a turbo, the common results are destruction of the seals/bearings, or a comp/turbing wheel breaking off. The way you overspin the turbo is by letting it spin in free air (have no piping on it, or a huge boost leak).

<U>Did you ever do a leak-test of the charge piping? You should leak-test the turbo housing too.</U></TD></TR></TABLE>
Could this have happened so quickly? Say, after just so many test drives. What's odd is I never messed with the IC piping really and all of a sudden I finally started getting some boost. Does this mean I'm going to have to get this rebuild again?