DAprojectTuRtle

iTrader: (3)

Hello after researching and trying different solutions i have decided to ask someone else.
my idle is fluctuating very bad now. At first it was mild 1k-2k now its 3k-4k. Coolants topped off no air in system. No cels. Oil is topped off.. cleaned iacv. New MAP sensor. The setups a b20v turboed..

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Bleed your coolant again, check your TPS, check for vacuum leaks, and please for the love of **** tell me your car is properly tuned.

DAprojectTuRtle

iTrader: (3)

Tuned at do it dyno by bubba.. thanks

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

Check for vac leaks yet?

DAprojectTuRtle

iTrader: (3)

I know this may sound stupid but could you tell me how to check for vacuum leaks?

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Get a smoke machine, or find a friend who smokes cigars. Cigarette smoke isn't thick enough. Start the car, and fog the bay. See where the smoke gets sucked in. Some people also use things like brake cleaner spray.

DAprojectTuRtle

iTrader: (3)

Niice lol im a smoker so im going to try that

DAprojectTuRtle

iTrader: (3)

One thing i thought id mention is that right when it starts it shoots to 4k then starts revving up and down compared to before itd warm up then fluctuate.

DAprojectTuRtle

iTrader: (3)

Nvm i figured it out.. a bolt thats been in question walked it self out... i just got the car with work already done just trying to work out kinks before its pulled..

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Glad you got fixed. It had to have been a bolt for the IACV or something else on the intake side of the motor after the throttle body correct?

Since not everyone has a smoke tester like stated above in the future the best and easiest way to check for a vacuum or boost leak even on the intercooler core itself to check for a puncture is to take brake cleaner (the flammable stuff, not the hippie environment stuff or it won't work), starter fluid, or any other flammable aerosol and spray it anywhere there's a gasket, coupler, connection, hose, where the injectors seat into the intake manifold, intercooler core and endtanks, basically anything on the intake tract from the compressor outlet to the intake manifold to cylinder head gasket and spray it.

If the leak is large enough the flammable liquids will get sucked into the motor and cause a change in engine rpm.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Yep, that works as well, but a fluctuating idle can make the difference a little harder to notice. Smoke machines are cheap, and hell, you could always use it and return it.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Well a fluctuating idle should tell anyone right away to check the IACV right away. Typically a leak won't cause any idle fluctuation since they tend to be constant. If the leak is large enough to cause the ecu to cycle the IACV rapidly to try and stabilize the idle should also be obvious.

That being said I do plan on buying a smoke machine soon. I don't need one for the civic or s13 since all of vacuum lines will be braided line and an fittings or tube. But like on cars like my SVT focus or the other cars I work on with tight engine bays and a decent amount of vacuum lines and vacuum controlled functions it can be a bitch to track a leak down. I think Mercedes have to be the worst. My ex brought her supercharged slk230 over for me to diagnose a "gross vacuum leak" (that's literally what the code said) and I was confronted with a never ending maze of vacuum lines and solenoids. I checked for the common problems then told her to go get it smoked. I was like **** that ****.

Had it smoke tested and in 5 minutes found a leak under the intake manifold. For the record you can't even see under the intake manifold with the car on the ground. Although I did see one cool thing I'm gonna post in the random chat thread later.

DAprojectTuRtle

iTrader: (3)

Thanks fellas this has been very helpful.. a bolt on the tb walked out. Some of the parts on this build are very ancient.. 2004 era lol like the STR IM and RPM tb..

DAprojectTuRtle

iTrader: (3)

Just thought id share a pic.. setups going into my DA

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

Easy way to check for leaks is to cover turbo or tb with your hand

If the motor dies then no leak

If it stays running find the hissing sound

SilverEK96

iTrader: (11)

learned something new today..

ekhatch44

^ I always do this first to confirm there's a leak. Then I start spraying with brake cleaner

LightningTeg

Maybe if its a bad leak. I also wouldnt want to put my hand in front of a spinning compressor lol

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

Lol dont shove your hand in

If there isnt a leak itll be a shock how it feels the first time then you know what to expect

I remember a year or two ago someone here had the same problem so i told them how to find the leak and he came back and said " thanks turbohatch you *******, i almost got my hand sucked into the compressor. I found the leak"

Unless your hand is smaller then the inlet youll be fine lol

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

I remember that guy lol.

Also don't use a rag or anything that could be sucked into the compressor wheel. I've seen more than one idiot trying to find a vacuum leak have a rag sucked into the wheel, ultimately destroying it.

Also be careful putting your hand over the inlet. That's how Bob Norwood lost a few fingers. Found them in the endtank of the intercooler.