TravisBiggie

Hopefully I can pick this block up tomorrow, but I cannot tell if its sleeved or not. He said the block is not stamped. These are the pictures I was sent. In the second picture, it looks like there is another sleeve in that cylinder.. What is that? This is why I am confused.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

GE sleeves, the only companies that stamp/machine their blocks are benson and ERL

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

the discoloration is from the headgasket and just the age of the block, but yes, it is most definitely sleeved

peaceable

iTrader: (1)

Sure looks-like GE cooling veins. What's it bored-out to?

rich7777

The sleeves may have been replaced (I'm trying to compare them to my flanged sleeve block). Better pictures would help. It's definitely not a "full-on" sleeved block (like GE or Darton MIDS).

At the best it's had the sleeves replaced and a block guard installed.

I'd be weary of it though. Trust your instinct - if something doesn't feel/seem right then it most likely isn't.

TravisBiggie

can someone explain why the second picture looks like it has a whole other sleeve inside it? what is it?

TravisBiggie

84

TravisBiggie

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Thats just the piston in part of one circle

like i told you, the headgasket will leave that line there over time.. take a green scotch-brite pad and gently go over the sleeve tops, it will go away.

The upper sleeve support is classic GE sleeves, no blockguard is designed like that nor goes that low in the coolant passage, plus where each sleeve meets at the upper sleeve supports you can see the parting line between each sleeve, a dead giveaway

trust me, it has GE sleeves and if the bores are round the length of the sleeve, shows no sign of dropping a sleeve (or rather a sinking sleeve), has no leaks at the bottom of the sleeves where they meet the block then you're good, assuming the price point is correct

TravisBiggie

$1000 for a complete long block... cp pistons, eagle rods, gsr head, spun a bearing so itll need a new crank and rebuild. 120 miles one way drive as well.

blackeg

so i may be an idiot but from the top those dont look like cp pistons

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

they could be, IIRC their b series turbo (9:1) piston has large quench pads behind the valve reliefs

best way to find out for sure (and your comfort) is email pics to GE (although I'll bet you your car, motor, and turbo setup that they are GE lol) and ask the guy for pics of the cp box, the label on the box with the part number and then a pic of the piston spec sheet... or email piston pics to CP

Muckman

iTrader: (2)

It looks like the deck surface has been milled a lot. Would recommend that you measure piston to deck/head clearance before assembly.

*You may want to have it decked again to clean up the surface and you can have the machine shop measure p2d.

bigG

iTrader: (6)

ge sleeves cp pistons and what your circling is the top of the sleeve the piston is not tdc. with that said, if it spun a bearing at that low miles better check that block with fine tooth comb and check the line bore to

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

You'll need to line bore the mains, figure out why it spun a bearing, rods will need to be checked so will piston rings and pistons. There is a good chance you've got some bad parts there seeing its damaged (other than the crankshaft). Honestly in the end your not saving a dime. Sleeve your own block and build it.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

or tell the guy you'll buy it as a bare block with main caps, that should drive the price down a lot and if the guy realizes the extent of the damage he might see that is his best option as well