AVCR wont turn on all the way? buttons illuminate but no display unless I hold down a button...
#1
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AVCR wont turn on all the way? buttons illuminate but no display unless I hold down a button...
When I turn the key to ON, the lights for the AVCR buttons illuminate orange, but nothing displays on the screen. The display briefly flashes light, but then goes off and nothing happens. If I push any of the buttons on the unit, I can hear the solenoid activating (makes a pop noise), and if I hold the button down, the AVCR starts to boot up like normal. Once I let go of the button, the screen turns off completely but the buttons stay illuminated. If I hit a button again, the same thing will happen.
Does this sound like a power issue (even though the buttons illuminate)? or does the unit seem to have a problem? I have triple checked the wiring at the ECU and it is correct as far as I can tell. Power to the unit comes from pin A25 on my p28 ECU (12V switched power). The only thing I need to triple check is the wiring for the solenoid and pressure sensor. I cut those wires to make them shorter and resoldered them together. It was only a 2 pin connector and a 3 pin connector so Im pretty sure I didnt mix anything up and I dont see how that would keep the unit from booting up normallyanyway. But the fact the solenoid pops when I hit a button seems odd. Unless the unit itself is wacked out and sending a signal to the solenoid when I hit a button.
Has anyone seen this before?
Has anyone had any luck with Apex'i customer support? I left someone there a voice mail but if its like any other place, I dont expect to hear anything back frm them.
Does this sound like a power issue (even though the buttons illuminate)? or does the unit seem to have a problem? I have triple checked the wiring at the ECU and it is correct as far as I can tell. Power to the unit comes from pin A25 on my p28 ECU (12V switched power). The only thing I need to triple check is the wiring for the solenoid and pressure sensor. I cut those wires to make them shorter and resoldered them together. It was only a 2 pin connector and a 3 pin connector so Im pretty sure I didnt mix anything up and I dont see how that would keep the unit from booting up normallyanyway. But the fact the solenoid pops when I hit a button seems odd. Unless the unit itself is wacked out and sending a signal to the solenoid when I hit a button.
Has anyone seen this before?
Has anyone had any luck with Apex'i customer support? I left someone there a voice mail but if its like any other place, I dont expect to hear anything back frm them.
#3
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no dice. same thing happens with different power and ground sources. so I assume its either something I screwed up when I shortened the solenoid and pressure sensor wires (which I doubt but havent double checked yet bc the wires are neatly tucked under some ****) or the ******* thing is broken.
#4
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Re: (RTW DC2R)
I think you will find that it is a ground issue. I had the same thing happen. Buttons lite up, screen would flash every now and then. I thought it was a short but changed the ground an it worked fine.
Make sure where you are ground it is a good ground
Make sure where you are ground it is a good ground
#5
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this is what I was thinking which is why I tried a couple different ground and power sources. but through some research I found alternate wiring diagrams on the apex'i site with a P28 diagram that did NOT come with the controller in the diagrams/instructions and it shows to use the "Logic Ground" pin A26 which I was not using. Ill give that a try tomorrow.
#6
Re: (RTW DC2R)
its the ground same thing happened to my friends V-AFCII buttons would go on but the screen wouldn't work half the time, fixed the ground, haven't heard of any problems since from him.
#7
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Re: (DCxMagus)
cool that gives me some hope.
here is the pinout below from FF Squad. I am currently using A23 as the Ground, and A25 as the Power. The apexi site shows to use A26 (Logic Ground) as the Ground instead. Does anyone know what the difference is between a power ground and a logic ground?
also here is the apexi wiring diagram (92-95 civic top right). it shows to use A26 as the ground, but it also shows to use A1 as the injector signal which from what I have been told is not correct and to use the Ignition Control Module A21 instead. not sure what to believe haha.
http://www.apexi-usa.com/pdfWiring/2.pdf
here is the pinout below from FF Squad. I am currently using A23 as the Ground, and A25 as the Power. The apexi site shows to use A26 (Logic Ground) as the Ground instead. Does anyone know what the difference is between a power ground and a logic ground?
also here is the apexi wiring diagram (92-95 civic top right). it shows to use A26 as the ground, but it also shows to use A1 as the injector signal which from what I have been told is not correct and to use the Ignition Control Module A21 instead. not sure what to believe haha.
http://www.apexi-usa.com/pdfWiring/2.pdf
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#10
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Re: (Turbo-charged)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Blown90hatcH »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">They are both grounds for the ECM/PCM control curcuit and should have less than 1V at all times. </TD></TR></TABLE>
so you are saying it shouldnt matter?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Turbo-charged »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have an avcr here that does the same thing. it wont work even when bench testing it. ive had it for like 5 or 6 years though </TD></TR></TABLE>
dammit!
have you happened to open the unit to take a look inside? Ive read on the net about burned up resistors inside that can be fixed...?
Modified by RTW DC2R at 11:43 AM 8/11/2007
so you are saying it shouldnt matter?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Turbo-charged »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have an avcr here that does the same thing. it wont work even when bench testing it. ive had it for like 5 or 6 years though </TD></TR></TABLE>
dammit!
have you happened to open the unit to take a look inside? Ive read on the net about burned up resistors inside that can be fixed...?
Modified by RTW DC2R at 11:43 AM 8/11/2007
#11
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Re: (RTW DC2R)
I did not use the ground in the ecu. I used a ground off one of the bolts where the blower motor goes.
Never had a problem after that.
Never had a problem after that.
#12
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Re: (Fitti)
Q: I just purchased and installed my unit. Unfortunately the VFD screen does not light up. The arrow keys do light up. What is the problem?
A: Although there can be many factors to this, there are three probable reasons for this situation. 1- During installation, the unit was either wired incorrectly or shorted. Electrical shorts can happen in an instant without any noticeable signs. Please be careful. Once the unit has been shorted, there is nothing that A'PEX can do to repair the unit. It must be replaced or purchased again. 2- Make sure that both grounds have been properly connected. 3- Although rare, the units are mass produced in large quantities and defects can happen. If the steps above do not correct the situation, kindly repack the unit with all original components and return the unit to the dealer of purchase accompanied with original receipt (Required to process requests). Warranty claims for electronics must be made within 30 days of purchase.
Says to use BOTH grounds? I was under the impression the second ground is only needed if using a scramble switch...?
A: Although there can be many factors to this, there are three probable reasons for this situation. 1- During installation, the unit was either wired incorrectly or shorted. Electrical shorts can happen in an instant without any noticeable signs. Please be careful. Once the unit has been shorted, there is nothing that A'PEX can do to repair the unit. It must be replaced or purchased again. 2- Make sure that both grounds have been properly connected. 3- Although rare, the units are mass produced in large quantities and defects can happen. If the steps above do not correct the situation, kindly repack the unit with all original components and return the unit to the dealer of purchase accompanied with original receipt (Required to process requests). Warranty claims for electronics must be made within 30 days of purchase.
Says to use BOTH grounds? I was under the impression the second ground is only needed if using a scramble switch...?
#15
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Re: (Blown90hatcH)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Blown90hatcH »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have installed them on both the PG and the LG. It will not make a difference. You need to install both ground wires.</TD></TR></TABLE>
you told me before I only needed both grounds if I was using a scramble switch Ill mess with it more when I get home.
you told me before I only needed both grounds if I was using a scramble switch Ill mess with it more when I get home.
#17
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Re: (GetawayInMoscow)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GetawayInMoscow »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You need to install both grounds, I'm pretty damn sure the instructions state that clearly a couple times.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
nothing in the directions is clear
</TD></TR></TABLE>
nothing in the directions is clear
#18
Honda-Tech Member
Re: (RTW DC2R)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RTW DC2R »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
you told me before I only needed both grounds if I was using a scramble switch Ill mess with it more when I get home. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I was talking about the scramble wire....tape it off when not using. Grounds need to happen though.
you told me before I only needed both grounds if I was using a scramble switch Ill mess with it more when I get home. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I was talking about the scramble wire....tape it off when not using. Grounds need to happen though.
#19
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Thread Starter
All good now, both grounds hooked up to the Power Ground pin A23 and seems to turn on fine now.
one other question, am I supposed to hear the solenoid "pop" when turning the key to the ON position without starting the car? sensor checks seem to be ok I think. TPS is .3V closed and 4.4V WOT. the solenoid has a voltage too but Im not sure what its supposed to be when doing the sensor check.
one other question, am I supposed to hear the solenoid "pop" when turning the key to the ON position without starting the car? sensor checks seem to be ok I think. TPS is .3V closed and 4.4V WOT. the solenoid has a voltage too but Im not sure what its supposed to be when doing the sensor check.
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