Intrepidv614

Hello everyone, What's going on? Im new on here, I'll give a brief synopsis. I have a 1997 Honda Accord EX 4 dr. Now, I recently purchased the circuit city buy, buy one kicker comp subwoofer and get one free. I purchased 2 10" kicker comp subwoofers including a Q-logic sealed box. I was wondering if anyone else has these subs and how they sound? Especially if you think they would sound good in a 4 door accord.

I bought a Blaupunkt PCA 2100 Amplifier which is 300 watts rms, 600 watt peak. The subs are 150 watts rms, 300 watts peak so I'm thinking thats a perfect match. I can't install the system until the car is handed over into my hands within the next month.

Anyways, The 12 inch kicker comp and 10 inch kicker comp's are rated at the same wattage, anyone know what the difference in sound would be? I heard 10's hit harder but 12's are louder but I am not positive on this. I hope these subs are half way decently loud, Im not looking to actually win competitions with these subs but I dont want to have no bass either. By the way, this is my first time with subs, I dont know much.. sorry for the lack of knowledge. Thanks for any help in advice. You guys seem really helpful in the threads, I've read.

ekcivic9

is the amp 300 watts at 4 ohms or 2 ohms? ill take it that each of the speakers are 4 ohms each. so if the amp is 300 watts at 2 ohms, you would have to wire the subs in parallel.

anyways, i run 1 12" in my car, not running too much to it probably ~200 watts to it, and its pretty damn loud for me.

i dont think you will be dissapointed with 2 10's. my friends couldnt even tell how many subs i had in my car if the trunk is closed

all in all, i think if the box is built nicely and you are running enough juice to the subs, you will be happy

fcm

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Intrepidv614 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Hello everyone, What's going on? Im new on here, I'll give a brief synopsis. I have a 1997 Honda Accord EX 4 dr. Now, I recently purchased the circuit city buy, buy one kicker comp subwoofer and get one free. I purchased 2 10" kicker comp subwoofers including a Q-logic sealed box. I was wondering if anyone else has these subs and how they sound? Especially if you think they would sound good in a 4 door accord.

I bought a Blaupunkt PCA 2100 Amplifier which is 300 watts rms, 600 watt peak. The subs are 150 watts rms, 300 watts peak so I'm thinking thats a perfect match. I can't install the system until the car is handed over into my hands within the next month.

Anyways, The 12 inch kicker comp and 10 inch kicker comp's are rated at the same wattage, anyone know what the difference in sound would be? I heard 10's hit harder but 12's are louder but I am not positive on this. I hope these subs are half way decently loud, Im not looking to actually win competitions with these subs but I dont want to have no bass either. By the way, this is my first time with subs, I dont know much.. sorry for the lack of knowledge. Thanks for any help in advice. You guys seem really helpful in the threads, I've read. </TD></TR></TABLE> The type and size of the box is very important and will make a bigger diff. then the size of the speaker, go here and read EVERY page and you will become "knowledgeable" http://www.kicker.com/05/tech-...0.pdf 94

Intrepidv614

The amplifier is 100 x 2 channel at 2 ohms or 300 w x 1 at 4 ohms ( bridged ), which I was planning on doing. Thanks for the reply, very helpful.

Intrepidv614

I've already bought the box - a q-logic 10" sealed box. I have no skill in building a box either so I didn't try that plus I'm low on funds so couldnt afford a custom setup. But yeah that link is so very informational, thank you very much !

fcm

No big deal, the box is probably to big anyway, measure the box for volume, you can use up the extra volume by gluing "bracing" into the box, it will make for better bass and it will cost you next to nothing, $2 for a small bottle of wood glue, some MDF scrap you can probably get for "free" at one of your local car audio shops, go to one, tell the head installer/service manager what you want to do, and tell him if he would cut you up some 1" MDF into 1"x1"x2" pieces, [he may even have box full, I do] you will give him the fresh box of Tim Bits you have in the car, he will probably give you all the scrap MDF you want, I would. 94

CooBlueDAB

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ekcivic9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is the amp 300 watts at 4 ohms or 2 ohms? ill take it that each of the speakers are 4 ohms each. so if the amp is 300 watts at 2 ohms, you would have to wire the subs in parallel.

anyways, i run 1 12" in my car, not running too much to it probably ~200 watts to it, and its pretty damn loud for me.

i dont think you will be dissapointed with 2 10's. my friends couldnt even tell how many subs i had in my car if the trunk is closed

all in all, i think if the box is built nicely and you are running enough juice to the subs, you will be happy </TD></TR></TABLE>

you are running that kind of amp? 2 chan? I wont say for sure, but I am pretty sure you dont want one of those amps powering your sub, too many frequencies etc... and bridged...

I am gonna say, you should get a monoblock before that one, or the sub, goes boom.

Intrepidv614

Hold on a sec. Should I not bridge it should I only run 100 watts in two channel form to my subs? I don't get what you're saying. I got this amp for 100$ at the Ocean City car show this past week. Blaupunkt PCA 2100. I dont want anything to blow up. Im just looking for something to bump pretty good.

Orpheus1985

well if its stable at 1 channel and you wire the subs properly, it should be fine. As for box building, I built a box with 2 air chambers for the same buy one get one kicker sale (Crutchfield) only I got the 12". It cost me nothing. The most expensive part of the project were the fancy grilles i bought from Polk that match my rims...... But the boxes were free as I used things I had already. (glue, 3/4" MDF, polyfil, etc.) I will say I owe pretty much everything this project invovolved to FCM. The man knows what he's talking about. Anyway, I suggest (correct me if i'm wrong, fcm) that since you are running sealed boxes, you stuff 50% polyfil in the box. 50% of the cu.ft. That will make the subs "think" they are in a bigger box than they are. Although, if they're Q-Logic, they may be too big already...

LudemanDan

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> ...go here and read EVERY page and you will become "knowledgeable" http://www.kicker.com/05/tech-...0.pdf 94 </TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks for that link, I'm studying up right now.

CooBlueDAB

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Intrepidv614 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Hold on a sec. Should I not bridge it should I only run 100 watts in two channel form to my subs? I don't get what you're saying. I got this amp for 100$ at the Ocean City car show this past week. Blaupunkt PCA 2100. I dont want anything to blow up. Im just looking for something to bump pretty good. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I am not sure about it all at the moment, as to why, it may be fine, it may not, but usually subs are to be run off a mono D block... not on a normal amp that goes from 20hz to 20,000 hz... depending on cutoffs and such, it may not matter, but id ask FCM this directly to make sure.

fcm

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Intrepidv614 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Hold on a sec. Should I not bridge it should I only run 100 watts in two channel form to my subs? I don't get what you're saying. I got this amp for 100$ at the Ocean City car show this past week. Blaupunkt PCA 2100. I dont want anything to blow up. Im just looking for something to bump pretty good. </TD></TR></TABLE>The PCA-2100 is a 2x100W into 4ohms, 2x150 into 2ohms and 1x300 into 4ohms, although I am not sure how they get 300W mono out of a 2x100W amp, using BTL output transistors, but looking at their spec. sheet they do not mention RMS, http://www.blaupunktusa.com/NR...2.pdf anyway the amp is not stable under 4ohms when bridged into mono, and as you already have the box, so you can't, [without a lot of work] make it into a 2 chambered box, and if you were going to run the amp in the 2ch mode, you would want a 2 chambered box, not that you can not use a single chambered box, and an amp in 2ch mode, it's just not the best way to do it.
Try the amp in bridged mono and wire the subs in series for an 8ohm load, the amp should then make 150W to the subs.
Or get an amp that makes 300W into 2ohms or 8ohms when bridged.
Or take the subs back and swap them for a set of 2ohm ones, then you can wire them in series for a 4ohm load in the 1 chambered box you have and drive them with the 1x300W into 4ohm amp you have. 94

BTW I think driving 2 150W rms subs with an amp that only makes 150W into an 8ohm load, [2 4ohm speakers wired in series] although it would work, IMO would be underpowering the speakers.

incubus

generally speaking, it is a good idea to have a more powerful amp than ur subs can handle. this keeps the sub from overworking and minimizes distortion from the amp.
the comps are good entry level subs, I like them better than rockford P1's.

EBP_SI

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by incubus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">this keeps the sub from overworking </TD></TR></TABLE>

explain yourself son.

GSteg

lol. overpower them to prevent overworking.


Finding the logic to that hurts my brain