wunfstgsr

Are you sure the cam gears are alighned and the engine is at tdc and timing isnt off a tooth or two?

mwylan

Are you sure the cam gears are alighned and the engine is at tdc and timing isnt off a tooth or two?

You bring up a very good point and that may be the dilemma I am facing.
I am possibly a step above or even with a sand lot mechanic. I can follow my Haynes Manual and Youtubes but checking the TIMING is something I just don't know how to do. I can always rent a timing light but since I cannot start the car and keep it running I cannot check the timing "with a running engine".

I wish I knew how to check manually to check to see if it is close or near TDC Timing!! Problem is it is so darn packed down in that area.

Respost this from earlier:
Lastly, I know when your timing can be so far off there is a manual way to get it back close enough to start it with the rotor pointed at number 1 cylinder on the compression stroke and the timing marks lined up. This would be a challenge for me but I remember watching my Dad do this years ago. It is supposed to work.

I did verify again tonight that I am getting spark out of the ends of all spark plugs. Tomorrow I will check fuel pressure the quick and dirty way at the Fuel Filter just to see if it sprays out. I actually think that will be ok.

Thanks for your response. Always learning I am.

wunfstgsr

You need to take take off the the valve cover and and spark plugs, use a 19mm socket and rotate the engine counter clock wise untill the two cam gears are alighned, the arrows must point up and the middle notches should alighn perfect, the notch on the side of the exhaust cam gear should also be pointing toward the exhaust manifold and the notch on the side of the intake cam gear should be pointing toward the intake manifold. All these the notches should alighn and the arrows on the top of the cam gears should be pointing up. Confirm the oil pump timing gear alighns with the line on the oil pump! you have to take off the crank pulley and lower timing cover. Or you can go with the line thats on the lower timing belt cover that should alighn with the tdc mark on the crank pulley.


Also when you replaced the head gasket/ cylinder head did you have the head rebuilt at all or just put it back on with a new head gasket? And if so did you check the valve lash when putting the head back together?

rollinmyda

iTrader: (19)

OP- this is what I was asking when I asked if you've verified mechanical timing. Mechanical timing and ignition timing are different. Whe you are rotating the crank pulley to get it to tdc ONLY rotate it counter clockwise. If you rotate the engine clockwise via the crank pulley bolt you risk creating slack in the timing belt which will put you out of time and you will be forced to remove and reinstall the belt correctly.

I don't believe he replaced the head gasket/head. He said he used one of those "repair in a bottle" type of treatments. The fact that he used it creates some suspicion to me but he states that he's checked compression several times and had good results.

wunfstgsr

Yea i think you may be right but what did you use in a bottle to fix a blown head gasket?

m4xwellmurd3r

its probably that bars headgasket fix. pretty sure its a combination of liquid glass and copper fibers. does a great job of gunking up engine blocks and since he had coolant in the oil, most likely got some of that in the oil, which will be lovely for the bearings.


honestly it still sounds like the gasket is blown between cylinders or something, but he stated his comp test was fine

mwylan

Ok. Finally responding. I did rent a compression guage and did test it twice each time, one week apart. I did it exactly according to the test procedure and it measured, on approximately 4 to 5 cranks, of 150 to 160 psi. I read and was told that was ok.

Yes, this after I did the Head Gasket repair in a bottle so that must of worked. Well, I can only hope it might have worked and Yes I know it's not the right way to do it but I gave it a shot.

OP- this is what I was asking when I asked if you've verified mechanical timing. Mechanical timing and ignition timing are different. Whe you are rotating the crank pulley to get it to tdc ONLY rotate it counter clockwise. If you rotate the engine clockwise via the crank pulley bolt you risk creating slack in the timing belt which will put you out of time and you will be forced to remove and reinstall the belt correctly. - To answer this I haven't done this yet and not sure I can do the timing, it may be over my mechanical expertise. I did this years ago on an older car from the 1970's but that was much easier. I could really screw it up worse trying something I have never done before on this type of Acura Integra which seems more detailed than my old 1970 Dodge Diplomat.

I can get my car towed to my mechanic I have know for years for FREE, as insurance will cover the tow. Also, my mechanic is 100% trusting as I have gone to him for major work for close to 20 years.

How much do you suppose it would cost to get my timing back in line, if in fact that is the only problem? I am starting to agree with most here that the Timing may be the problem! So timing can drift off that far as to not allow the car to start considering everything else?

All comments welcome.

mwylan

I finally had my Acura towed to my expert mechanic.
He did a leak down test and it showed my compression was only at 25%.
So the crap in the bottle didn't work and I still have a blown head gasket.

I've read this is really an intense job and way beyond my skill level.
Better sell the car as is and as advertised......with blown head gasket!

If I am just an average car guy...it is beyond my skill level. Right?

Sad ending...

wunfstgsr

How much did he quote you to replace the head gasket? i would just have it fixed then sell it. Im no expert mechanic either but i do perform all the work on my Integra myself i even built the engine myself. Just do a little research and with the right tools you can do it in a short day.

mwylan

It would be close to a grand....mostly for the labor and then the HG is cheap, but what else could be found. New studs. To me other unknowns.
I've had the car 10 years and if I could get 500 bucks as is I would take it.

If it was like an old Heathkit radio and I had perfect laid out instructions maybe then! If I attempted it is it possible the timing would not be affected.
Exact instructions!! That's the key.

wunfstgsr

There is step by step instructions in several manuals. Theres a few good books on building the B series engine as well that can be obtained at a Barnes and Nobles book store or a local Library.

As far as timing goes generally it will still be timed if timing was set correctly before the dissasembly. I scribe/ mark the top of the distributor and the top of the cam cap that the upper distributor bolt screws into. This gives you a line that you can use to put back the distributor exactly where it was timed at. As long as the engine was set to TDC before the dissasembly you can assemble everything back to TDC and set the valve lash to be sure its within spec and set the timing belt correct and it should fire right up.

mwylan

What I really worry about on doing the Head Gasket repair is how to know if something else needs repairing once I have the Head off! Like the Head, the valves, the springs. Extra job that I would have to bring to somebody else like Head resurfacing....etc.

Do you perform all the work from above or do you have to do some work from below the engine? So many questions (I know). It seems to be one of the more difficult jobs to perform.

wunfstgsr

What i would recommend is drop off the head at a machine shop with new valve seals and pay a little extra and have the head rebuilt or at the very least checked over and hot tanked and have the new seals installed, new valve seals are dirt cheap and a decent head rebuilt will cost you $350 to $450 usually. You will get the head back virtually brand new with 0 miles and all work will be done up top no need to go under the engine.

mwylan

Hey wunfstgsr: I am still here and still thinking about doing the Head Gasket job. I just feel intimidate by the entire process. I have the Haynes Manual but it doesn't so much go step-by-step on an exact procedure of how to do it. The Helms manual is over 40 bucks and the library doesn't have it.
Of course I can take it all apart, that's the easy part. But one mistake in putting it all back together and whew I am done.

Doing the valve stems, no idea?
Sure I would have to take it to a machine shop. Yes.

I watched a video and just wonder if it does involve all of this on the B18 engine? Seems very complex.
Time is not the issue, it's whether I can successfully put it all back together. It still wouldn't be that cheap with the head going to a machine shop.

Here was the video I watched, any comments?

tamboo

pm'ed you a link to fsm at sp**ledupracing. 8)

wunfstgsr

Removing and unplugging everything can be the easy part yes but just take notes on what went were ect so that your not confused when plugging everything back together.

The machine shop should give you back the head ready for install complete with all the new valve seals installed. Just give them the new seals in the bag and they will install them when they assemble the head back together.

Check this video out i skimmed through it but it looks like a decent diy video on putting everything back together.




Just remember before disassembly mark the distributor on top with the cam cap tower to mark where the distributor is set for timing so that you can align the distributor back to that line you scribed to bring back timing exactly where it was so you don't have to set timing again.

Also when you remove the head, DONT loosen the timing belt tentioner, simply remove the cams and slide the timing belt to the side, when you assemble everything back on simply slide the timing belt over the gears and the timing belt should be exactly how it was set before. The tension will stay the same so this way you don't have to reset the timing belt. watch the evans cam shaft removal and assembly video and he shows how to put the cams back on and the slide the belt back on.

mwylan

I watched the Video. Simply Amazing and very helpful. I put this question on the Part 1 Youtube, under my other name of FredDobbs.....just a moniker. He just didn't show with the camera where the timing belt spinning bolt was located.

At the part of the video you say use a 1/2" drive with a 19MM socket to spin the motor. Just in the video you don't show where the socket gets applied? Is it an obvious spot where it goes, please let me know. I'm thinking of doing my 1990 ACURA Integra. This is one GREAT video....really great.

Thanks so much for posting these. It will be my total reference....

wunfstgsr

Thats the crank pulley bolt use the 19mm socket on a 1/2'' drive and turn the engine counter clock wise until the engine is at TDC, it helps to take out the spark plugs to spin the engine easier. !

also remember to put the head gasket on the right way. And also i recommend using new oem head studs or after market arp head studs just to ensure the used oem bolts don't stretch causing the bolts to get torqued correctly. Some say you can reuse them but i would spend a little $ on a set of new oem head bolts at least. Some after market head gasket kits come with them but i would recommend just buy a oem head gasket there usually around $50 and new oem valve seals there usually like $30, the head bolts are like $50 for the aftermarket oem spec. You can search to find a OEM head gasket set. I bought mine for i think $250 on ebay but not sure it was for a Vtec B series. You can go with these japanese aftermarket head gasket set, there no different than the ones sold at your local parts store like auto zone and they work just fine.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Acua-Integra-B18B1-Non-V-Tec-OEM-JAPAN-Head-Gasket-Set-1996-to-2001-/150751296560?fits=Model%3AIntegra%7CSubmodel%3ALS&hash=item23197a3c30&vxp=mtr

Or find a oem set like this vtec one and have the piece of mind your using genuine OEM parts. I always recommend a oem head gasket though just me.



http://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-Honda-Top-End-Head-Gasket-Kit-Set-B16-B16a2-Si-B18c5-ITR-B-Series-VTEC-/251549434207?fits=Model%3AIntegra&hash=item3a9183c15f&vxp=mtr

wunfstgsr

Don't forget to set the valve lash before starting the engine! it should be the last thing you do before you start the engine, Then double check EVERYTHING, all the coolant hoses to plugs. Then start her up with the radiator cap OFF, let the engine idle and start to warm up then set the heat inside to full blast hot, this helps bleed the radiator, once all your bubbles are out the radiator and you don't see any more put the cap on and wait till its at full temp and take it out for a drive. If everything is back on correct you should be good to go. I recommend after the first oil change recheck the valve lash to ensure all the valves are in spec. Valve lash is important, a few valves tight will make the engine miss fire and run like ****. So its always good to check the valve lash every few thousand miles.







You will need this tool to make it easier but you can use a wrench and flat head screw driver too. Also you need a fealer gauge of course.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/10mm-Honda-Jam-Nut-Valve-Adjustment-Tool-/351399459900?hash=item51d10a3c3c&item=351399459900&vxp=mtr

mwylan

I did find a local machine shop that said to smooth out the head was only $75, and another $75 to rebuild it. Not 100% what the rebuild included.
My big question, I guess when I remove it is, the Head cracked. That may be the worst.
Lots and lots of research on this again what exactly to buy for my rebuild, as you've said, with valve seals, head bolts, gasket or gasket kit. It does get somewhat confusing for me, an amateur, what exactly to buy for the entire job. Read, research, and ask questions.

Yes, I have time and again taking it apart easy. All the exact specs like valve lash, timing marks (not too bad), bolts adjustments are the most important. One mistake and uh-oh!!

Thinking. Yes, I am. I could just take it all apart and it would be no worse for selling if that were the case. ha ha.

mwylan

Some more questions. I haven't started the repair head gasket job yet.
Many here know a lot more than I do about Honda's.

After I remove the valve cover will I be able to spot a cracked Head or Block? Which one? Hope this is the right question.
Do I have to remove the Head to see if it is cracked or can I spot it before removing the cam shaft?
That would be a key decision as to whether or not moving forward.

Please all comments welcome.

wunfstgsr

I highly doubt the head or block is warped cracked ect..

you can check the block deck with a straight edge or a level. The machine shop will check he head and if they need they will mill it if not they will just give it a smooth resurface.

mwylan

Since I was running the car for a short period of time with the milky oil (oil mixed with coolant/water) would that have ruined my bearings? The guy at the machine shop told me that's a possibility. Which bearings would he be referring to?

Just another question....before biting the bullet.

wunfstgsr

main crank bearings and rod bearings.