OK I keep getting the weird bogging problem, seems to be moreso when under 3k rpms, like i can put it in 2nd, revving at 1200, give it about half throttle, and it will bog and gag up to 2800-3000 and then slam my head back into the seat as it takes off...

This goes on for a few minutes then throws a code 43 CEL.

It also doesnt always happen, the day before yesterday, it was horrible, couldnt get 3 miles without the CEL coming on, yesterday it ran great, no problems at all, and today it came and went 3 times thoughout the day.

I have visually checked all connections, vacum lines, etc.
I have a O2 sensor with less than 5,000 miles on it.
I have replaced my fuel filter
I have stock timing, and havnt touched the plug wire orders


Can somone help, i know somone else has had to have had this before me!! I fixed it with a new O2 last time, but now its back 4,000 miles later...

 

i'm going to link you to a post i just created earlier today about CEL 43
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=960801

check out the test procedure for 43 and see what you come up with. if you have any trouble reading it (cause it was hard to post) and you need the info... just PM me.

 

I am unfamiliar with some of the things those procedures talk about, like a6, a26, d14, and 4p connector. Im guessing they are pins on the ECU, but i dont know, can you explain that?

Also i JUST replaced my O2, and the problem gets worse and better, for no reason, like today it got really bad, bogged out so bad that floored in 2nd it climbed to 3k so slow everyone had to pass me So i pulled over, restarted the car and it worked better, it didnt go away but it was better than it was.

So i dont know what would cause this problem to come and go, and get worse and better, it is driving me nuts!! Also i think the engine may be heating up more when the problem is present, but then again i havnt checked that with anything but my hand, today after it was bad, the hood, yeah the HOOD burnt my hand when i touched it. But the temp gadge hasnt shown any signs of getting hotter, and the fan rarly come on, so i dont know.

I need help

 

I thought 43 was a fuel system problem not an o2 problem. I know they are related, but it sounds like maybe your FPR or fuel pump may have problems. Maybe just needs a tune up.

 

if you click the link i posted, thats honda's test procedure for a code 43, and a few other codes. the d14 and other such numbers are pin numbers on the ecu harness. the 4p connector is the clip on the 02 sensor itself. if that doesn't clarify anything for you, leave it up to someone who knows electronic diagnostics (or just about anyone who can operate a DMM and has an obd1 pinout).

 

Well I dont have the pinout, and i think its ODB0 (1991 teg)

I know how to use a DMM, i just wasnt sure that those were pins on the ECU, because i have never worked with the ECU itself, the most wiring i have done with cars is the stereo :D So i was asking because i thought that you maybe were talking about a test for ODB1 cars, that i dont think will work on mine.

Sack Master:
I orginally thought it was the fuel pump, i have replaced the fuel filter before this problem started, about 2 days before lol. But the reason i dont think its the pump or filter is because it will run strong in the higher rpm ranges, it jsut boggs in the low ones, and its not all the time.

My new theroeys are the plug wires, and the ignitor connections, i have been seaarching and it seems like those can come loose and cause this problem, also i have read of a few other people fixxing similar problems with the wires, so im at least going to check them, does anyone know what the max ohms they should be is??

Thanks for the replys.

 

im haveing the same problems in my dc also.

 

its o2, theres a similar procedure for obd0 cars, you just test different pins. you're car also has that 1 wire o2

 

Well today i replaced the spark plug wires because one of them looked to be bad when i tested them.

Drove fine, ran and idled better than ever for about 3 miles, then took a crap. threw code 43 and 3 (fuel supply and MAP)

Took it home and switched out the MAP with one from my moms 99' 3.2TL ( i have a b20, so the MAP sensors are the same on top of the TB type)

Idled even better ran smoother, for about 4 miles this time, then took a crap again, throwing this time only code 43. I have put my MAP back in and it hasnt thrown code 3 except that one time.

This problem is so weird it is driving me insane! I dont understand what it could be, tommaorw i am going to test the O2 sensor wiring harness and see if the connections on my ignitor are loose while inspecting the cap and rotor, i know there not that old though.

The weirdest thing i have noticed is that it will start acting up, and when it does it will bog real bad, like its missing, and somtimes it will come out of it past 3000 RPM's, or if i floor it, and other times it wont, i cant tell if its running rich, or if fuel isnt getting there all togehter. But the weirdest part is that its so intermitent, somtimes it will work great, well not great, but at least its not bogging nearly as bad.

Any ideas on what could be causing this intermitent bogging?


And also when i took the plug wires off i did a compression test, 165, 165 165, 160 Also the spark plugs were balck on the outer edge and back up around the electrode, but the peice of metal that sticks out over the elctrode was white, is that normal?

I have replaced and tested sofar:

MAP sensor
Plug Wires
Fuel filter (300 miles ago)
O2 sensor (boch 1500 miles ago)
Ran some injector cleaner though
Use chevron gas, tryed upping it to 89 cotane, didnt help


Thanks Everyone

 

Here's what I would try.. With the engine running, remove the vacuum hose to the fuel pressure regulator. Next, increase the throttle to the range where it usually bogs and watch to see if fuel spurts out of the fuel pressure regulator..

 

CHECK YOUR DIZZY MIGHT BE NO GOOD TRY SWAPING A FRIENDS ON AND TRYING THAT MY FRIENDS CAR HAD THE SAME PROBLEM NOT TO LONG AGO

 

It doesnt bog at all when its just sitting there, it only does this under load, throttle responce is great and everything, thats why i just cant figure it out!! I cant get it to bog just revving the engine up, it has to be under load.

What would taking that vacum line off do? What would be good/bad about if it did/didnt spray fuel?

 

check your distributor

 

Are the dist. on a 1996 JDM b20b and 1991 b18a the same? I have a spare b18, maybe i can swap it on there...

I am going to take it down and have a computer diagnostic on it tommarow, im hoping its all just the O2 sensor after all, it may be since i didnt go OEM on it

Also my spark plugs are black around the elctrode. but white on the metal peice that comes out over the elctrode, i think that is normal?? Im just hoping that its hurting my engine to be running it like this, if its running to lean or rich

Thanks everyone


Modified by pirate252 at 8:12 PM 8/19/2004

 

spark plugs sound normal... it'd be better if i had a pic.

the distributors will have different plugs, but they will bolt up just fine

 

And the different plugs will work? or is there somethink i need to do to get it to plug in right? I would get ya a pic, but i am at my house right now where we have no tools, i do all my work at my freinds garage/shop.

 

The different plugs should work fine.

 

I give up, im taking it in tommarow...I compliled alist of everything that i have done and stuff to give to them, but here it is for you all also, so maybe somone can still take a stab at it!

Symtoms:
The car will bog out at low RPM's (below about 3,000) and low throttle. The bogging is less severe at low RPM with WOT. Example: The car is in second gear, reving 1500RPM press on the trhottle about 40% and it will bog and slowly climb to about 3,000, there it picks up, still bogging, but not nearly as severe.

The problem can come and go, somtimes being there for aonly a few minutes, and somtimes coming and going several times in just one short trip. Even while the problem is gone i still feel a slight bogging, but barly noticable.

The problem has thrown several code 43 (fuel supply system) and only one time threw a code 3 (MAP sensor).

I had this same problem when i first bought the car, but it barly ever happened and a new O2 sensor was sugested, it fixed it up until now, the O2 sensor was not an oem one, so i suspect that it could have already died, and is causing the same problem again, I just want to confirm before i replace a part that is suposed to last 10 times this long. I also think my cars A/F mixture may be off, that may be killing the O2 early.

Notes on the car:
- The car has a 1996 B20B motor swap in it, so some things, like the MAP sensor are different, the stock one from the integra is still wired up on the firewall, but it was replaced by one that mounts on the throttle body of this new motor, there are a few other minor changes on this motor, but for the most part its exactly the same as the stock B18.

The new MAP sensor is soldered onto the stock harness, I may have wired it wrong? But the car ran fine for a while with the wiring as it is now.

-The car idles a little low, and when a load it put on at idle, ie brakes, A/C etc it will dip down to 500 RPM's or below, the car has never died though. This may be caused by a lightweight flywheel i have installed, it less then half the weight of the OEM one.


Checks and Tests that I have done:

- I switched out the MAP sensor with one out of a 1999 Acura 3.2 TL. Idled smoother, and seemed to run better, but problem came back after about 4 miles of driving. Throwing code 43 along with it. I also reset the ECU before this test.

- I have changed the spark plug wires, also made it idle and run smoother, but only made it about 3 miles up the road before it started bogging again. I also reset the ECU before this test.

- I have run injector cleaner though

- I have done a compression test, results of 165, 165, 165, 160. During this test the driver side cylender made a hissing noise that sounded like pressure leaking after the test was done, but before excess pressure was let off, dont know if that is normal or not.

- I have replaced the PCV valve and hose with a brand new OEM one less than 1,000 miles ago.

- I changed the oil and filter less than 300 miles ago

- The O2 sensor replaced about 4,000 miles ago, it was one from autozone, not an OEM one though.

- I did a valve adjustment not to long ago, and didnt re-torque the crank bolt, it may have loosened and thrown the timing off...

Things that I suspect:

Timing out of spec (didnt re-torque the crank bolt, it may have loosened and thrown the timing off...)
TPS sensor out of adjustment
Distributor
Ignitor, coil, etc, maybe a loose connection
O2 sensor fouled
A/F mixture off, killing compontents to early (can i have a test done to see what my A/F mixture is?)

 

OK took it to the shop, and they couldnt find anything wrong they think that the LS ECU isnt working for my B20 correctly, so here are two things i thought may fix it.

Cheap idea:
Buy a Mass Airflow Meter and put it in my intake and take out the MAP sensor, this would measure the VOLUME of air into the engine rather then the pressure of the intake charge.

EXPENSIVE WAY:
Buy hondata for my ECU (but i dont think they make it for a 91 right (ODB0)...Or maybe a SAFC or somthing? and have it dyno tuned.


They think it is ECU related...

Anyone have any ideas or if those would work??