codes 7,17,41,and 43
so i was driving my 94 GSR this weekend, and everything was running good, then all of a sudden my check engine light came on and my car sort of bogged out, and felt pretty slow. I checked the codes, and they are throttle angle(7), I'm thinking TPS?, then VSS(17), wondering if it's a cable or electronically controlled speedometer?, and then 41, which is I think the heater wire on the O2, if it is could this be because I bought a universal 02, and not OEM?, and last was 43 which is I think fuel supply system, and to this one, I don't even know where to begin. Any kind of help would be greatly appreciated.
theres a few test procedures to go through. for the most part, code 41 and 43 mean replace the o2. vss isn't related to the speedo cable if its cable drivin. theres a procedure with that... i had a vss code, i reset the ecu and it never came back, so try that. then TPS, theres another procedure. the procedures i keep talking about require about 15 minutes each w/ a dmm. if you are unfamiliar w/ a digital multimeter, i'd suggest taking the car to someone who is. If you are familiar, respond to the post and i'll give you the test procedure as the honda manual states.
It is a new 02, but could it be because it's not oem, it may be reading incorrectly, and I do have access to a dmm, anymore info would be great thanks.
code 7: turn ignition off, disconnect 3p connector to TPS,turn ignition on, measure voltage between yel/wht and grn/wht. is there ~ 5v?
1.YES:measure voltage between d11 and d22 on ecu, is it ~5v at full closed throttle, 4.5v at WOT w/ a smooth transition?
2. No: replace TPS, or replace open or short in red/blu wire between d11 and sensor
YES: bad ecu
1,NO: meausre voltage between yel/wht and body ground. is there ~5v
2. YES: repair open in grn/wht wire between sensor and d22
2. NO:measure between d20 and d22, is it ~5v?
3. YES: repair open in yel/wht wire between sensor and d20
3. NO: bad ecu
code 17: w/ the front of the car jacked, block the right front wheel and slowly rotate the left front wheel while measuring voltage between b10 and a26. does the voltage pulse between 0v and 12v?
1. YES: bad ecu
1. NO:disconnect the b connector from ecu, slowly rotate left front while measureing between b10 and a26 on the harness. does the voltage pulse between 0v and 12v?
2. NO: repair short in yel/red wire between b10 and vss or cruise control unit, or substitute known good vss (replace)
. YES: bad ecu
code 43: warm the car to normal operating temp. turn ignition off, wait two minutes. install jumper wire between a6 and a26, turn ignition on, measure voltage between d14 and a26 as soon as the ignition is turned on. is there .1v or less?
1. YES: disconnect 4p connector from o2 sensor, measure voltage between d14 and a26, is there .1v or less?
2. YES: replace o2
2. NO: disconnect d connector from ecu, measure between d14 and a26, is there more than .1v?
3. NO: bad ecu
3.YES: repair short in wht wire between o2 and d14
1. NO:disconnect 4p from o2, measure voltage between grn/wht and wht on the 4p connector for the o2. is there more than .1v?
2. YES: replace o2
2. NO: bad ecu
the long one... ugh
code 41: disconnect 4p connector at o2, measure resistance between c and d on the connector (bottom two opposite the clip that holds the connector in place) is there 10-40 ohms?
1. NO: replace o2
1. YES:check for continuity between c and body ground, and d and body ground. is there continuity?
2. YES: replace o2
2. NO: check for continuity between d terminal and A and b terminals (top two) individually. is there continuity?
3. <U>YES</U>: replace o2
3. <U>NO</U>: turn ignition on, measure voltage between yel/blk and orn/blk on 4p connector. is there battery voltage?
4, <U>YES</U>: disconnect a connector from ecu and try between yel/blk and orn/blk again, battery voltage?
5. YES:repair short in orn/blk between a6 and o2
5. NO:reconnect the o2 sensor 4b connector, measure amperage between a6 and a26 on ecu, is there less than .1amp?
6. YES: replace o2
6. NO: bad ecu
4. <U>NO</U>: measure voltage between yel/blk and body ground. is there battery voltage?
5. NO: repair open in yel/blk and pgmfi main relay
5. YES:turn ignition off, reconnect 4p, measure voltage between a6 and a23. is there battery voltage?
6. YES: bad ecu
6. NO:repair open in orn/blk between o2 and a6
hope all that helps you out
kinda fixed it
Modified by 3.504 at 3:27 AM 8/17/2004
1.YES:measure voltage between d11 and d22 on ecu, is it ~5v at full closed throttle, 4.5v at WOT w/ a smooth transition?
2. No: replace TPS, or replace open or short in red/blu wire between d11 and sensor
YES: bad ecu
1,NO: meausre voltage between yel/wht and body ground. is there ~5v
2. YES: repair open in grn/wht wire between sensor and d22
2. NO:measure between d20 and d22, is it ~5v?
3. YES: repair open in yel/wht wire between sensor and d20
3. NO: bad ecu
code 17: w/ the front of the car jacked, block the right front wheel and slowly rotate the left front wheel while measuring voltage between b10 and a26. does the voltage pulse between 0v and 12v?
1. YES: bad ecu
1. NO:disconnect the b connector from ecu, slowly rotate left front while measureing between b10 and a26 on the harness. does the voltage pulse between 0v and 12v?
2. NO: repair short in yel/red wire between b10 and vss or cruise control unit, or substitute known good vss (replace)
. YES: bad ecu
code 43: warm the car to normal operating temp. turn ignition off, wait two minutes. install jumper wire between a6 and a26, turn ignition on, measure voltage between d14 and a26 as soon as the ignition is turned on. is there .1v or less?
1. YES: disconnect 4p connector from o2 sensor, measure voltage between d14 and a26, is there .1v or less?
2. YES: replace o2
2. NO: disconnect d connector from ecu, measure between d14 and a26, is there more than .1v?
3. NO: bad ecu
3.YES: repair short in wht wire between o2 and d14
1. NO:disconnect 4p from o2, measure voltage between grn/wht and wht on the 4p connector for the o2. is there more than .1v?
2. YES: replace o2
2. NO: bad ecu
the long one... ugh
code 41: disconnect 4p connector at o2, measure resistance between c and d on the connector (bottom two opposite the clip that holds the connector in place) is there 10-40 ohms?
1. NO: replace o2
1. YES:check for continuity between c and body ground, and d and body ground. is there continuity?
2. YES: replace o2
2. NO: check for continuity between d terminal and A and b terminals (top two) individually. is there continuity?
3. <U>YES</U>: replace o2
3. <U>NO</U>: turn ignition on, measure voltage between yel/blk and orn/blk on 4p connector. is there battery voltage?
4, <U>YES</U>: disconnect a connector from ecu and try between yel/blk and orn/blk again, battery voltage?
5. YES:repair short in orn/blk between a6 and o2
5. NO:reconnect the o2 sensor 4b connector, measure amperage between a6 and a26 on ecu, is there less than .1amp?
6. YES: replace o2
6. NO: bad ecu
4. <U>NO</U>: measure voltage between yel/blk and body ground. is there battery voltage?
5. NO: repair open in yel/blk and pgmfi main relay
5. YES:turn ignition off, reconnect 4p, measure voltage between a6 and a23. is there battery voltage?
6. YES: bad ecu
6. NO:repair open in orn/blk between o2 and a6
hope all that helps you out
kinda fixed it
Modified by 3.504 at 3:27 AM 8/17/2004
Hey, thanks for all the help, I'm gonna work on checking it out tonight, I'll post with the results tomorrow probably, once again I really appreciate the info.
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