Quick Help on Diagnistics
95 Accord Coupe EX
Where's the diagnostic plug?
Is it the grey plug that's attached to inside of the passenger's door jamp? or am I missing something.
Trying to get this done before my lunch hour runs out....
Thanks in advance.
[Modified by greensleeper, 11:50 AM 9/19/2002]
Where's the diagnostic plug?
Is it the grey plug that's attached to inside of the passenger's door jamp? or am I missing something.
Trying to get this done before my lunch hour runs out....
Thanks in advance.
[Modified by greensleeper, 11:50 AM 9/19/2002]
I'm not seeing the plug. There's a grey plug about the right size. 2 rows of 6-8 pins. that is plugged into a white holder bolted to the inside passenger's door jamb right behind the glove box. Other than that I don't see anything else. I'm gonna try that.
[Modified by greensleeper, 12:03 PM 9/19/2002]
[Modified by greensleeper, 12:03 PM 9/19/2002]
A code 1-3 for the pump motor may indicate a failure to build up pressure because the fluid level is low or there is air in the system. There’s a special "maintenance bleeder valve" under a red cap on the modulator that must be opened to relieve pressure inside the modulator any time the modulator, pump or accumulator is serviced. Honda has a special T-handle wrench (07HAA-SG00100) that can be used for this purpose. To relieve pressure, turn the bleeder screw one complete turn (key off), then stop. Wait until the pressure is relieved, then close the screw.
From http://www.babcox.com/editorial/bf/bf70210.htm
From http://www.babcox.com/editorial/bf/bf70210.htm
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I don't know if this will help greensleeper but here it is...
http://www.bba-reman.com/hondaalb2computer.htm
Edit: I'm a little late..
[Modified by Nitz5785, 2:44 PM 9/19/2002]
http://www.bba-reman.com/hondaalb2computer.htm
Edit: I'm a little late..
[Modified by Nitz5785, 2:44 PM 9/19/2002]
You did say that you replaced your wheel bearings with your brake swap.
The above table posted lists ABS -COde 1-3 as a 1-3 High pressure leak (possibly modulator)
If that is true and if a solenoid is bad, the entire ABS modulator unit has to be replaced (list price $927) because the individual solenoids are not available as separate components. (according to link)
[Modified by 2 B 4GO10, 2:56 PM 9/19/2002]
The above table posted lists ABS -COde 1-3 as a 1-3 High pressure leak (possibly modulator)
If that is true and if a solenoid is bad, the entire ABS modulator unit has to be replaced (list price $927) because the individual solenoids are not available as separate components. (according to link)
[Modified by 2 B 4GO10, 2:56 PM 9/19/2002]
Way late but for future reference...
Okay this for you guys and girls wanting to know how to check your own codes. I have included pic's (some which suck so I will try to get better ones but its a hella fun angle) to try and make it as clear as possible so I hope its easy to understand if you have any questions feel free to post’em, mail’em, of Im me.
First go digging around under your passenger side dash/glove box. See that blue looking thing? That’s what you are looking for, grab it and bring it out so it’s easier to have access to.
Now take a paper clip and bend it in to a form similar to this one (note you can also use a wire of any kind all you need to do is close the circuit)
After you have gotten the paper clip stick it into the plug as shown (it can take a little work to get a paper clip to bend just right to do this. It’s nothing you shouldn’t be able to handle with a pair of pliers)
Now turn the key in your car all the way over just to the point before you start it and give it a second.
Look at the lights that are coming on and they should flash. A long flash stands for 10 and a short flash stands for 1. According to the helms manual the code will flash three times. If there are multiple codes it will flash the three it has in memory. Always try fixing the first problem first it could be causing the second two. The code is stored in the memory for that specific function until it is reset (pulling the fuse to that unit). Happy code hunting!
Also note the plug might be pluged into the orange box..
[Modified by KCHybrid, 4:15 PM 9/19/2002]
Okay this for you guys and girls wanting to know how to check your own codes. I have included pic's (some which suck so I will try to get better ones but its a hella fun angle) to try and make it as clear as possible so I hope its easy to understand if you have any questions feel free to post’em, mail’em, of Im me.
First go digging around under your passenger side dash/glove box. See that blue looking thing? That’s what you are looking for, grab it and bring it out so it’s easier to have access to.
Now take a paper clip and bend it in to a form similar to this one (note you can also use a wire of any kind all you need to do is close the circuit)
After you have gotten the paper clip stick it into the plug as shown (it can take a little work to get a paper clip to bend just right to do this. It’s nothing you shouldn’t be able to handle with a pair of pliers)
Now turn the key in your car all the way over just to the point before you start it and give it a second.
Look at the lights that are coming on and they should flash. A long flash stands for 10 and a short flash stands for 1. According to the helms manual the code will flash three times. If there are multiple codes it will flash the three it has in memory. Always try fixing the first problem first it could be causing the second two. The code is stored in the memory for that specific function until it is reset (pulling the fuse to that unit). Happy code hunting!
Also note the plug might be pluged into the orange box..
[Modified by KCHybrid, 4:15 PM 9/19/2002]
didnt you do the v6 brake upgrade?
my ****'s fucked.
anyone had this lack of pressure, leaky modulator thing before?
My modulator leaks, I have to refill it about every 4-5 months nothing big outside of that.
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