hi..
B18C block
IB stg2 sleeves,open deck, no b/g
pr3 p & p head
s2p2
etch..

ARP head studs step torqued to final 65ft lbs
cometic mls 0.27 85mm hg (pistons were 84.5, but i couldnt find a 84.5 gasket)
didnt use copper spray

assembled the motor
tuned the p30 using crome.. to steady afrs and mild ign
and did 100 miles...
i noticed that when i stopped the car for more than 10 minutes, when it started again, i could see puffs of white smoke..and smell coolant.. and the car behaved like having a misfire.. like 3 cyls working..
if the car idled for 10 minutes.. it would stop smoking , and so on..
its obvious i have a seal problem,...

head was milled...
block given to me after sleeve installation, with orders not to mill it anymore...
a guy said from the machine shop said something weird like, the block is decked
with the sleeves protruding a tad ???? so that they can be pressed with the head..
i didnt get it right....

so now what?
how do u check if a sleeve dropped?? or if they are uneven with each other?
if any of the above problem solved.. it ll be his problem then... to fix it

if not?? what to do?
resurface both block and head.. use another gasket , use copper and overtorque the arps a tad???
is there an oem 84-85 vtec gasket?
noone lasercuts them in greece anyway
anything i should check when i remove the head??

i tightened the arps handtight with a tool... ? is it possible they went loose?


note.. the arps i got are for a b20 block with b16a head.. but whereever i asked they said i could use them in my b18 block... (isnt B18C a bit taller?? than the b20?)
i had bought these when i had a b20, and never used them
i have oem fresh headbolts... maybe i should use those?

THANX in advance for any help..
very dissapointed...
damn i got rid of the b20 block to be safer...


Modified by ef9_b16a1 at 12:54 AM 10/17/2007

 

Use a stock gasket cut to 85mm and torque your ARP's to 80-85 ft.-lbs. with Molylube. Recheck the head bolt torque after 500 miles or so. Before you reassemble the engine check the head and block with a straight edge and a feeler gauge.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ef9_b16a1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
block given to me after sleeve installation, with orders not to mill it anymore...
a guy said from the machine shop said something weird like, the block is decked
with the sleeves protruding a tad ???? so that they can be pressed with the head..
i didnt get it right....

</TD></TR></TABLE>


how many people owned this block before you got possesion of it?

 

guys thanx for the reply..

dissasembled the motor..
no 2 and 3 cylinder sleeves perfect, gasket seal perfect...
no 1 cylinder sleeve droped 0.03-0.05mm
no4 cylinder sleeve dropped 0.05-0.11mm

thats reaally reaally bad..

i decided to dissasemble my b20... to build something more solid...

i chose those ib sleeves back then..
and trusted the greek machine shop for the installation..
came up with this..
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2037857

jeff sent new sleeves for free, the machine shop used the..detailed instructions he sent.. in another block , and the result is a dropped sleeve in 2 days of the motor assembly...

i am really frustrated.. dissapointed, u know to the point i say...
DAMN.. i ll go buy a stock civic dx and stay with that..

i dropped the car at the shop... and they said that the only.. thing they can do with THIS fucked up block now, is to install darton sleeves...

but wy?
are they easier. to install???
more difficult to drop?

the block we used was just a used gsr block
dont know the mileage or owners n stuff