Alright guys...this is driving me freaking insane, so hopefully someone has some insight that will help. Also, I've already searched ad nausium and have read everything, but no one has really made a thread stating everything they've tried...and rest assured, once this is solved, I WILL post what solved it so others can benefit in the future.

Here's the deal. The radiator fan on my d16z6 in my '92 CX has NEVER come on. EVER. In the 2 years I've had it, not once has it came on. Seriously...never. This needs to be fixed. The engine is boosted and I cringe at the fact of this problem being prolonged any further.

<u>Here's what I've tried/fixed so far as of today, 7-17-06...in this order:</u>

~ The radiator fan is fully functional. I unplugged the connector to the fan switch located on the thermostat housing (thermostat housing connects the lower radiator hose to the engine block) and jumped it (with car running AND just with the ignition "on") with a wire. The fan came on and ran fine. Thus, the fan is not the issue.

~ Because I've jumped the fan switch connector and proved the fan to be working, there is obviously no need to jump the fan directly to (+) and (-) off the battery. However, I did do this, and once again...the fan worked.

~ The relay is not the culprit, because once again, since the fan ran by jumping the fan switch connector, the realy has to work. Plus, I can hear the relay clicking "on" when I jump the fan switch connector...it's fairly loud.

~ I installed a brand new DEFI temp. gauge with the sensor in the upper radiator hose so as to most accurately read the engine's correct temperature, since the coolant is coming right out of the head/block and to the sensor. Full coolant bleed/flush performed.

~ I bought and installed a brand new Honda fan switch and installed it into the thermostat housing. Full coolant bleed/flush performed.

~ Have done each of these things listed and ran the car on a normal to work/home/running errands schedule for a week in between each step. So, everything's had plenty of time to "work." Plus, it's been about 100 here in TN for the last week straight.

~ Each time I run the car, I let it fully warm up, and a few times I've let the car idle to the point of reaching 205 degrees F (and even about 208 degrees F once...before I got scared it'd damage something and shut the car off)...fan still didn't come on. I know the temp. gauge is accurate...it has to be, it's brand freakin' new, AND it's so hot outside, these temp's HAVE to be correct.

SO, I ask you fellow H-T members...WHAT THE HELL IS GOING ON? WHAT HAVE I OVERLOOKED? Should I replace the thermostat? I would think that if the t-stat is stuck closed, enough amount of coolant reaching 210 degrees F would sneak past it and set off the fan switch?

THANKS everyone!!!

And to anyone who thinks I'm being **** about this, f*ck off. I care about my car, and this is legit. tech. Plus, others can benefit from reading this in the future, presuming I fix the problem.

 

Forgot to subscribe to my own thread

 

If the radiator fan is the problem, buy a new one @ autozone or Advanced auto parts for 50$ 12 inches... new, easy to install, and slim.

but, if the fan does not work, and you persist to fix it, someone here will help you.

 

when i first read this i thought you got your hair stuck in a radiator fan and you were pulling it out

 

you could run a fan switch inside the car and turn it on manually

 

I just went through a similar situation in that it seemed like the fan never came on (I've got a 89 hatchback with GSR motor). The radiator I've got is an Integra DA full width and as a result it never gets hot.

But I was doing some stuff related and wanted to make sure the fan (and added pusher fan on the drivers side) were working and also turning in the correct direction. (so you are not the only **** individual out there)

Remove the connector that plugs into the sending unit on the thermostat housing, turn on the ignition (but don't start the engine), and then use a short length of wire to short the two pins of the connector together.

Your fan should spin! If it doesn't then you know it's something in the wiring between the switch and fan (that includes the relay).

Also if the fan spins, that means that the sending unit, a thermostatic on/off switch isn't working as you want. It may be for a different temperature setting than what you want or are planning on.

With the engine at a temperature where the switch should "close", you should be able to read through it with an ohm meter.

I hope this all helps.

Wes

 

Good info, indeed, but if you read my original post, I have done all that already. Not being a dick, just saying I've already tested the fan AND tested the switch I installed a brand new fan switch. I also tested my old one when I took it out (tested it on the stove in a pot of water) and it turned out not to be bad. So, I bought a new fan switch for no reason, basically.

Long story short, as I said in my original post, the fan works AND the fan switch is functional.

 

Really not wanting to run a manual switch, either. The fan should be coming on by itself, and it's not. I'm looking to fix the problem, not simply cover it up by running a manual switch

 

coolant full/ maybe air is in system.

 

Again, as I said in my original post, I've already drained, refilled, and bled the system repeatedly, so there shouldn't be air in there.

 

wow, I'm completely stumped since u took all the steps I would have...

Bump for u man*** gl fixing it

 

Well since you are turbo, your car will get up to operating temperature pretty fast anyway. Your best bet is to secure the fan so that it is always on when the ignition is on.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by deckster333 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well since you are turbo, your car will get up to operating temperature pretty fast anyway. Your best bet is to secure the fan so that it is always on when the ignition is on.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Also a noble idea (similiar to wiring the fan to a switch so I can turn it on and off anytime I want), but again...this is just covering up the situation. Thanks for the input, however, I am definetly wanting this fixed, not masked.

 

Sounds like the thermostat is bad. Doesn't the thermostat have to be working in order to send a current to the fan switch telling it to turn on?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by soulphusion &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sounds like the thermostat is bad. Doesn't the thermostat have to be working in order to send a current to the fan switch telling it to turn on? </TD></TR></TABLE>

No, the thermostat has nothing to do with the fan turning on.

For the OP: try rewiring the fan from the switch to the connector. Some times the wires get fucked up and there's nothing you can do about it. It's two wires, so it shouldn't take longer than an hour. If that doesn't work, hook it up to one of your empty fusebox sockets below the dash. Many of them come on with ignition-on and stay hot until the car is turned off, which will benefit your turbo setup moreso than anything else.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Archidictus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No, the thermostat has nothing to do with the fan turning on.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm all about learning, so what is it that tells the fan switch that the car is at a temperature that requires the fan to come on then?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Archidictus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

No, the thermostat has nothing to do with the fan turning on.

For the OP: try rewiring the fan from the switch to the connector. Some times the wires get fucked up and there's nothing you can do about it. It's two wires, so it shouldn't take longer than an hour. If that doesn't work, hook it up to one of your empty fusebox sockets below the dash. Many of them come on with ignition-on and stay hot until the car is turned off, which will benefit your turbo setup moreso than anything else.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Holy ****, he helped somebody instead of just flaming and bitching the person out like a total *******...I'm in awe...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by soulphusion &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I'm all about learning, so what is it that tells the fan switch that the car is at a temperature that requires the fan to come on then?</TD></TR></TABLE>

The water temp sensor controls the fan...when the water circulating through the block gets too warm (usually set to around or a bit above 200ºF) it turns the fan on

at OP:
At this point, since nothing else is being affected, it has to be deffective wiring from ur temp sens to ur fan....I mean there's 2 routes you can go w/ that... you can either re-wire the sensor to the fan (not what I would do unless it was a customer's car) or I'd just hook it up to an always hot empty in the fusebox..I don't like the whole switch idea...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Syndacate &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The water temp sensor controls the fan...when the water circulating through the block gets too warm (usually set to around or a bit above 200ºF) it turns the fan on</TD></TR></TABLE>

AH! Very cool. I knew there was a sensor somewhere that did that. You rock, thanks for the info, and Archidictus, thanks for not flaming me.

 

When I had this problem it came down to being a cut wire.

 

You might wanna read this thread. Similar problem now fixed. https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1693909

 

Wow, good deal...thanks for the link to that thread! I guess I'll try a new thermostat...and if it ends up NOT being a bad thermostat, oh well, they're only like $12 from Honda.

I'll keep everyone posted just like that guy in the other thread did

I've drained, refilled, and bled my coolant so many times now, I'm a damn pro at it

 

i would take the temp switch for the fan out of the engine, turn the ignition on, and use a heat gun to heat up the sensor( careful not to burn yourself or the plug or wiring) and then see if the fan cuts on by the sensor itself. if so your problem is not electrical. it is something with the thermostat or coolant. hope this helps. good luck.

 

PROBLEM FIXED.....


.....atleast it appears to be fixed. I **** you guys not. The fan comes on by itself just how it should now! I was on my way home from work today and traffic was absolutely ridiculous for some reason (usually I shoot right home without much idling). So yeah...100 degree temps outside + a good 20 minutes of just sitting there idling and BAM! FAN ON!

However, I am going to see how it acts for a few more days, because I think maybe it was a fluke.

So yeah, I'll keep everyone posted. <u>Radiator fan problem fixed for now...method of repair: NOTHING!</u> I didn't do anything except let the car get dangerously hot (it turned on at around 205 degrees F on the temp. gauge.) due to today's insane rush hour traffic. <u>If it continues to work for the next few days, I may replace the thermostat anyways, because the fan SHOULD be coming on about 10 degrees colder than that, at about 195 degrees F. AKA: My thermostat is working, just not in the range it should be.</u>

 

Well, a few more days of watching/waiting/etc. And, it's fixed. Comes on everytime the temp. gauge hits 205 degrees F...on the dot.

<u>Problem solved; fixed itself; wish I knew wtf happened</u> (I think it's just the combination of it being so hot here and traffic in TN being alot more bumper-to-bumper than where I used to love w/ the car in IL.