First of all the car is throwing a code 23 for the knock sensor.

I recently purchased a p28 but I haven't had a chance to have
it installed and tuned as well as eliminate the knock sensor yet.

Recently the car has been ideling really low between 250 and 500 rpm.

Here's the main problem, when I'm accelerating especially in first and second,
the car will sporadically shut down for about a quarter of a second then kick back on.

It's causing a really bad kick when it turns back on because it happens so fast
I'm still on the throttle half the time.

It's makes me look like a 15yr old kid who can't drive a 5 speed

The rpms will drop really fast like the car is turned off and the CEL
for the knock sensor will disappear as if I actually turned the car off
then back on.

Do you tech heads think this could have something to do with the bad knock
sensor or do you guys think it's a seperate issue possibily ignition related.

Recently I've replaced the Plugs and wires which helped with the bogging
it was having before.

The distributor and ignition module have about 35k on them.

My friend seems to think it could possibily be one of those 2 culprits.

This problem is really bothering me because with the car shutting off and on,
it makes kind of dangerous if I'm pulling out into traffic or merging onto the
highway

 

Do the dash lights go off when the engine shuts off? Does the speedo and tach needles drop to zero? Sounds like it could be an ignition switch issue to me right off hand. Hope you figure it out.

Pirate

 

These are the symptoms many h22'rs experienced, including forbidden, 98typesh etc. It has been the knock sensor that's been a problem for many h22s.

 

I guess I am spoiled. As soon as I swapped in my old H22 I went with a chipped P28 from the start. Never had any knock sensor issues.

Pirate

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PirateMcFred &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do the dash lights go off when the engine shuts off? Does the speedo and tach needles drop to zero? Sounds like it could be an ignition switch issue to me right off hand. Hope you figure it out.

Pirate</TD></TR></TABLE>

The tach needle drops almost to zero but it always kicks back on before
it makes it that far down.

I believe the lights stay on except the check engine light, it flickers
as the car is shutting off.

 

Sound like a power outage (brown out) to me. Is this only an issue when you are moving? What about when the car is not moving? Can you replicate the issue by jiggling the keys in the ignition or getting some friends to rock/bounce the car while parked and idleing? Pop the hood and start wiggling the harnesses, check for loose wires to the ECU, fusebox and battery terminals.

The lights on the dash should not flicker because of the knock sensor cutting timing.

Can you try a stock .bin file in the P28 just tomake sure that it is not the ECU?

Just my suggestion. I hope others can chime in too.

Pirate

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PirateMcFred &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Can you try a stock .bin file in the P28 just tomake sure that it is not the ECU?
Just my suggestion. I hope others can chime in too.
Pirate</TD></TR></TABLE>

When you say stock .bin file are you talking about throwing the p28 in there
like it is just do see if the car does the same thing?

The car only does when it's moving, it will rev up in neutral.

The more load you put on the motor, the more likely the car will cut out.

It really only has time to drop about from say 3500 to 2500 rpm (about 1k rpm)
before the motor kicks back in.

 

Has your ignition recall been done? Mine would do similar things

 

I experienced many of the same issues and yes it can be very dangerous. If you have a local Honda dealership around stop by and get the recall done on the ignition switch, that may or may not be your issue but atleast you could give it a shot, and if it still does it then move on to another possible culprit maybe knock sensor issues.

 

is there a certain throttle % that it happens at?

Does it just fall on its face then pick back up to normal?

When you have a broken knocker sensor on the stock ecu, the timing gets retard. In most cases, this REALLY messes with the way the engine produces power. Bogs the engine down and makes it hesistate alot as if its killing itself trying to make power.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is there a certain throttle % that it happens at?

Does it just fall on its face then pick back up to normal?

When you have a broken knocker sensor on the stock ecu, the timing gets retard. In most cases, this REALLY messes with the way the engine produces power. Bogs the engine down and makes it hesistate alot as if its killing itself trying to make power.</TD></TR></TABLE>


well, it's less likely to happen if I putt, putt around in it.

the car was throwing a code for the knock sensor for at least 1k miles before
this current problem started.

what all years does the ignition recall cover?, if the recall consists of just the
ignition switch, i replaced that about 2yrs, 35k miles ago.

 

bumpd zzl3

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SKDRCR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">When you say stock .bin file are you talking about throwing the p28 in there
like it is just do see if the car does the same thing?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well the P28 does not have the correct fuel and ignition maps for the H22 so if you get it chipped and get a simple stock H22 program on the chip then you can plug the P28 into the Prelude and see if it cus out at high load/WOT.

Another thing you can do is pull the clock fuse (10 amp I think) for a minute or two to reset the ECU. That should clear the knock sensor CEL for a little while at least. Then drive it around and see if it cuts out under load. If there is no CEL and it is fine and then the CEL comes back that would be a good indicator of your problem.

Pirate

 

Hey dude, that's weird, I've been posting this everywhere with not much help. I got the same problems and it's annoying as heck. Only I got cel for egr and yeah when it cuts out the cel turns off. For me it always does it at high rpms. Can't rev past 6200 and man does it kick back, feels like I'm hitting the breaks. I got a stock p13 ecu, not getting the knock code though, am getting code 20 (ELD) but no cel for it, it's just always stored, I'm lost, checked my ignition coil, ignitor, almost all the ignition stuff and I'm at a loss.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PirateMcFred &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Well the P28 does not have the correct fuel and ignition maps for the H22 so if you get it chipped and get a simple stock H22 program on the chip then you can plug the P28 into the Prelude and see if it cus out at high load/WOT.

Another thing you can do is pull the clock fuse (10 amp I think) for a minute or two to reset the ECU. That should clear the knock sensor CEL for a little while at least. Then drive it around and see if it cuts out under load. If there is no CEL and it is fine and then the CEL comes back that would be a good indicator of your problem..would like to avoid that if it may not be the cause.

Pirate
</TD></TR></TABLE>

My problem is exactly the same minus the tach/dash light wierdness. Fine under light load, really breaks up under any form of wot. Even under part throttle, around 3500 theres somekind of break up, and after 4k everything is pretty smooth, no problems in vtec at all. I'm throwing the egr code, but doubt this could cause this problem. Does this sound like a knock sensor problem? The reason I ask is I have to take off the intake manifold to get to mine..

 

Hmm, maybe my problem is related to yours but it's fine at partial throttle, but cuts out at WOT, but only has problems going above 6000 rpms, Vtec kicks in fine, but over 6000 it cuts out then comes back in, and CEL turns off like it loses power, feels like I'm hitting a revlimiter when there shouldn't be one. It's annoying the heck outa me, any help? I recently replaced my ignition coil from a b18 obd2 and put it into my h22 obd1, they had the same part #'s so i thought it would be ok but is this a bad idea? Thanks for any help.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PirateMcFred &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well the P28 does not have the correct fuel and ignition maps for the H22 so if you get it chipped and get a simple stock H22 program on the chip then you can plug the P28 into the Prelude and see if it cus out at high load/WOT.

Another thing you can do is pull the clock fuse (10 amp I think) for a minute or two to reset the ECU. That should clear the knock sensor CEL for a little while at least. Then drive it around and see if it cuts out under load. If there is no CEL and it is fine and then the CEL comes back that would be a good indicator of your problem.

Pirate</TD></TR></TABLE>


That's good advice Pirate

I'll try the clock fuse technique
tonight or tomorrow and get back to you.

Hopefully this weekend I will have the p28 in.

 

UPdate:

I reset the ECU and test drove it.

I then jumped the wire and the code was cleared so I went for
a test drive. It reved up fine until about 4500 in first then
kicked like a **** a minute or so later the Cel for the knock sensor
came back on.

So this symptom would have to be something else
besides the knock sensor triggering it right?

Rule out the distributor, ignition module, and coil pack
because I swapped all of those over from another lude today as well.

 

i had the same problem for a while, however it was slightly different that it idled low all the time but would dip down when you hit the throttle. My problem was that there wasnt enough fuel pressure. although it is an unlikely candidate, i would make sure you are getting enough fuel mixture, especially when going between 2 ecus and make sure the fuel map doesnt have you running lean.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by veganstraightedge &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i had the same problem for a while, however it was slightly different that it idled low all the time but would dip down when you hit the throttle. My problem was that there wasnt enough fuel pressure. although it is an unlikely candidate, i would make sure you are getting enough fuel mixture, especially when going between 2 ecus and make sure the fuel map doesnt have you running lean. </TD></TR></TABLE>

that could be a possibility, the last time i pulled the plugs they looked a
little bit on the lean side.

the problem is our fuel pressure tester at work doesent have the right
insert for the prelude fuel rail

 

do you guys know what's the right fuel for the h22a.....and do anybody know where i can get a p28 chipped program for h22a....i have the ecu chipped already but i would hate to give this away for a stock p72....and i tried it and it works..just my knock 23 sensor shows....help out also!