ok found this article on team-integra.net

http://www.team-integra.net/se...=1044


now theres one part in the install i dont under stand its this


i dont get what they mean by this part in the DIY timing belt question

d) Once you've done that, rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise until the cam gears rotate exactly 3 teeth. MAINLY THIS HERE 3 TEETH????

Loosen the 14mm tensioner bolt and then torque it to 40 ft-lbs. The belt should be on there nice and firm without any noticeable play around the belt. One last and final time before putting everything back together, check to make sure that when the crankshaft is at TDC the cam gears are at TDC as well.

 

what part about it dont you understand? 3-7 teeth on the cam gears.. till the slack is out, then tighten n torque the tensioner nut.. then rotate a few times and see if it has any really big slack anywhere or if it jumps teeth, etc

 

hello

 

Rotating the crankshaft a few teeth as the last step is what tensions the belt. Rotating the crank 5-6 times before that ensures that everything is on straight and in time. Then you loosen the tensioner bolt, rotate the crank by a few teeth on the cam gears, then tighten the tensioner bolt. Ever notice how the timing belt goes straight down from the exhaust cam gear to the crank sprocket with nothing in between? It's easy to get slack in that long run when installing the belt, and when you rotate the crank a few degrees with the tensioner bolt loose, that takes the slack out of that long run to ensure that the belt doesn't jump teeth on the cam gears and destroy the engine when you first crank it up.

*edit* that long run from exhaust cam to crank sprocket is also why you should ALWAYS install the belt around the crank sprocket and exhaust cam FIRST, and then all the other sprockets and gears afterwards. If you start at the crank sprocket and install the belt around the tensioner, water pump, intake cam, and end on the exhaust cam (which alot of people will tend to do) you will no doubt have a ton of slack over on the exhaust side, which is what causes the belt to skip teeth.

Always start at the crank sprocket and go CLOCKWISE when installing the belt (exhaust -> intake -> water pump -> tensioner) and then do that last step to tension the belt, and you'll be good, and just think how much money you saved by doing it right yourself instead of paying a mechanic to do it.

 

HOW COME in the HELMS manual it tells you to

go

crank----> tensioner------> waterpump------> exahust cam------> intake cam


not crank, exhaust cam, intake cam, water pump then tensioner.

 

ok well my bad, the point was, put it on the exhaust cam before the intake cam, or in other words don't leave the exhaust cam as the last thing you put the belt over. If you do, you'll most likely have too much slack on the side going down from the exhaust cam to the crank sprocket.

You can do it the Helm's way or the way I said above, either will work, it's just whatever is easiest for you to get it on (can be a pain to get the belt over the last cam gear). Just don't leave the exhaust cam last.

 

bump

 

Why bump? Patrick tells it like it is. With the crank at TDC and the cam gears in the correct position, put the belt over the exhaust gear first, while keeping the belt nice and taut(on the straight run up from the crank). If it helps, move the tensioner to its slackest position and snug the bolt so it stays there - that way you aren't fighting the spring. Lastly slide the belt over the intake gear, again keeping the belt taut from the exhaust gear to the intake gear. Make sure you rotate the crank pulley counter-clockwise so the tensioner can then do its thing. Just my 2.2256 cents.

 

THANK YOU GUYS