Wirelesseffect

has been covered before, but just thought i'd ask and get some info.

When i drive, i can hear a winding noise coming from my car. It seems to be coming from the rear. im not sure if it has something to do with my rear-end, wheel bearings wearing out? tires? jacked up my car and i couldnt find the problem. it seems like there's something grinding and spinning at the same time?? im clueless...

so im pretty sure this topic has been covered before, so sorry for me asking again. any info would be appreciated. thanks for helping!

p nut

It's probably the clutch buzz. Just an annoying noise--no harm done. Search in the archives. And, yes, it has been covered a lot.

cmrs2k

That doesn't sound like clutch buzz, sounds like gear whine to me.

Check your diff fluid, have you had it serviced lately? It's possible they put the wrong type in. Either way if it is the diff this is a BAD sign and i would be careful driving because this can be a sign of a soon failure.

S CARTER

HEY HONDA-TECH, IM A LONG TIME READER FIRST TIME POSTER. IVE ALSO HAD THIS PROBLEM ON MY OWN S2000. THE NOISE BECAME SO LOUD I ALMOST SOLD THE CAR, THINKIN OMG MUST BE THE DIFF. I EVEN CHANGED OUT THE REAR BRAKE PADS, ROTORS, AND DIFF FLUID. EVENTUALLY I FOUND A HONDA SERVICE BULLETIN PUB ID 050105. SINCE IM BROADER LINE RETARDED, AND I DONT KNOW HOW TO TRANSFER A ISIS BULLETIN IN TO THIS POST I JUST TYPE IT OUT. HERE GOES...

"CREAK OR GRUNT FROM REAR OF VEHICLE AT LOW SPEEDS: 00-05 S2000

GETTING COMPLAINTS FROM OWNERS 00-05 S2000S OF A CREAK OR GRUNT FROM THE REAR OF THE VEHICLE WHEN CORNING OR DRIVING AT LOW SPEEDS? THE PROBLEM COULD BE THERE'S MOVEMENT BETWEEN THE OUTBOARD JOINT AND THE WHEEL HUB. TO GET RID OF THIS NOISE, YOU NEED TO CLEAN AND LUBE THE MATING SURFACES OF THE OUTBOARD JOINT AND WHEEL HUB. HERE'S HOW:
1. REMOVE THE WHEEL NUTS AND THE REAR WHEEL.
2. LIFT UP THE STAKE ON THE SPINDLE NUT, AND REMOVE THE NUT.
3. REMOVE THE COTTER PIN FROM THE LOWER ARM BALL JOINT CASTLE NUT, AND REMOVE THE NUT.
4. SEPARATE THE BALL JOINT FROM THE LOWER ARM.
5. PULL THE KNUCKLE OUTWARD, AND USE A PLASTIC HAMMER TO REMOVE THE OUTWARD JOINT FROM THE WHEEL HUB.
6. CLEAN THE MATING SURFACES OF THE OUTBOARD JOINT AND THE WHEEL HUB.
7. APPLY A THIN LAYER OF DC111 SILICONE COMPOUND TO THE FACE OF THE OUTBOARD JOINT. THIS COMPOUND REDUCES THE FRICTION BETWEEN THE JOINT AND THE WHEEL HUB SO THE NOISE WON'T HAPPEN AGAIN.
8. PULL THE KNUCKLE OUTWARD AND INSTALL THE OUTBOARD JOINT TO THE WHEEL HUB.
9. RECONNECT THE BALL JOINT TO THE LOWER ARM. TORQUE THE CASTLE NUT TO 69N.M (51 LB-FT) THEN TIGHTEN IT ONLY FAR ENOUGH TO ALIGN THE SLOT WITH THE BALL JOINT PIN HOLE. INSTALL A NEW COTTER PIN.
10. CLEAN THE WHEEL HUB AND THE SPINDLE THREADS.
11. LUBRICATE THE SEATING SURFACE OF A NEW SPINDLE NUT WITH ENGINE OIL, THEN INSTALL THE NUT. TORQUE TH NUT TO 245N.M(181LB-FT). USE A DRIFT TO STAKE THE SPINDLE NUT SHOULDER AGAINST THE DRIVE SHAFT.
12. REINSTALL THE REAR WHEEL. TORQUE THE WHEEL NUTS TO 108 N.M(80 LB-FT).
13. REPEAT STEPS 1 THRU 12 FOR THE OTHER OUTBOARD JOINT."

SO THATS PRETTY MUCH IT MINUS THE COOL PICS.
WELL BEST OF LUCK AND HOPE IT WORKS FOR U AS IT DID FOR ME.
OH YAH SORRY ABOUT ANY MIS SPELLINGS OR POOR GRAMMER. I KNOW HOW MUCH EVERYBODY HATES THAT.

PS. HOPE TO BE A USEFUL MEMBER OF HT THANKS.

WowOzYouRock

ohh not to mention we hate CAPS

JoeS2000

When I take off from a stop with steering wheel already turned I get a buzz/moan sound coming from the rear of the car. Is this possibly not normal? It only lasts till I get up to maybe 5mph.

S CARTER

Yah sorry about the caps im at work right now, anyways the problem you may be talking about is different, and if u listen closely its probably in the front. My S also does that. Theres another PUB 040903 ill write this one up to...

"Popping from front wheel upper control arm mount

If you've got a 00-04 in your shop for a customer complaint of an oil canning or popping noise under hard cornering or braking, look for a gap between the front wheel upper control arm mounting brackets and the frame rail they're spot welded to. if your customer frequently drives the vehicle on race tracks or in autocross events, a gap like this can form.

to fix the problem, here's what to do:

1. Raise the front of the vehicle, and remove the front wheels.

2. Straighten out the frame rail by placing a block of wood on the bracket spot welds and then striking the block firmly with a 48-ounce hammer.

3. Remove the paint form side of the bracket and the joining frame rail.

4. Stitch a MIG weld bead along the side of the bracket where it touches the frame rail. (you mat need to disconnect the brake line and move it out of harm's way.)

5. Refinish the paint to prevent corrosion.

6. if necessary, reconnect the front brake line(s), and bleed the brakes. Reinstall the wheels."

I haven't personally done this yet, but if i have the time this weekend will. and ill let u know how it comes out.

Wirelesseffect

thanks for the info.

i've checked my fuilds last year before i put the car away and it seemed fine. i just ttook the car out the other wk and it didnt make that sound, but eventually it did. so maybe ill check the fluids again.

and i'll check the wheel hub and outjoints

thanks for replying! i appreciate it